nd the kill circuit (black/yellow wire) and found no problems. What else could it be?
Sport & Outdoor – Others

Experienced athletes share their insights in answering this question:
The only part left is the Timer base/ trigger assembly mounted where the sator is under the flywheel. It is p/n 0582041. You may have a difficult time finding it though.

How to Identify and Resolve Common Issues ?

We offer a diverse range of insights on identifying and resolving common problems in sports. Our sources encompass academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays shared by seasoned athletes. :

Engines with no spark or intermittent spark on one bank can be caused by a faulty stator. Nestled in with the stator under the flywheel is the trigger (or timer base).
Loss of spark is caused by anything that prevents coil voltage from jumping the electrode gap at the end of the spark plug. This includes worn, fouled or damaged spark plugs, bad plug wires or a cracked distributor cap.
Spark issues are the most common symptoms of failing stators, known as “Misfiring.” If you haven`t already known, stators are directly responsible for producing the required spark for your spark plug.
If there isn`t any spark visible when kicking the engine over, follow these steps: (1) Check the metal cap on top of the spark plug and make sure it is tight. Give it a gentle twist with a pair of pliers if it isn`t. (2) Make sure that the spark plug lead wire is solidly connected to the spark plug cap.
If no spark appears, check for broken wires, shorts, grounds or a defective stop switch. Once you have confirmed that the stop switch is working, reconnect the spark plug lead.
Clogged Fuel Injectors

If the car cranks when you turn the key, but the engine won`t start, it could be because fuel isn`t getting to the engine. One potential reason for this could be dirty fuel injectors. Over time, the fuel injector nozzles can become clogged with rust, corrosion or debris.

When couples say they no longer feel a “spark,” it may mean that they`re missing the initial feeling of infatuation or that long-term commitment has become challenging. Meeting your partner and falling in love may have felt exciting, new, and intense. You might have felt that it was the only factor in your life.
If the ignition relay shorts, burns out, or otherwise fails while the engine is operating it will cut off power to the fuel pump and ignition system. This will cause the vehicle to immediately stall due to fuel and spark being cut off.
The relationship between crank and cam timing events can also cause no spark, especially on Chrysler products. On these vehicles, the PCM won`t trigger the ignition coil if the cam and crank are out-of-sync.
Most DIS no start problems are caused by a bad crank position sensor. Many DIS systems use the “waste spark” setup where one coil fires a pair of spark plugs that are opposite one another in the firing order.
The spark plug ignites the mixture and the piston is driven down by the explosion of the spark plug. As the piston returns to its lower position, the exhaust gases are released from the cylinder and the cycle start all over again with fresh fuel entering the chamber. This is known as the combustion stroke.
A single spark plug that fails to ignite the fuel-air mixture can cause a halt in the running of the engine. It can result in incomplete combustion and damage to the catalytic converter of the car. Faulty spark plugs can cause the car to exhibit starting troubles.
The most common causes of misfires are worn, improperly installed, and mishandled spark plugs, malfunctioning ignition coils, carbon tracking, faulty spark plug wires and vacuum leaks.
The starter will not have any impact on the engine`s ability to produce spark. There are a number of issues that may cause an ignition system to not produce spark. A bad crankshaft position (CKP) sensor (on engines that do not have a distributor), or broken, loose or corroded wires from the sensor to the PCM.
A failed crankshaft positioning sensor can cause your engine tp have no spark. In most modern ICE engines they all use electronic ignition and engine management systems. Theses systems depend on the signal sent from the crankshaft position sensor to determine what cylinder is coming up on top dead center (TDC).
Dead car battery: A dead battery is the most common reason why a car won`t start. If you have a battery tester, check your battery to see if it`s weak. If you don`t have one, try to jump start your car with jumper cables.
Clogged Fuel Injectors

If the car cranks when you turn the key, but the engine won`t start, it could be because fuel isn`t getting to the engine. One potential reason for this could be dirty fuel injectors. Over time, the fuel injector nozzles can become clogged with rust, corrosion or debris.

If you do not see a spark, there is an ignition problem. Remove a plug wire and insert an old spark plug or a spark plug tester into the end of the wire (the plug boot). Place the spark plug on a metal surface on the engine, or ground the spark plug tester to the engine. Then crank the engine to check for a spark.

Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

I have a 1985 115hp v4 johnson outboard that is not geting spark to the port cylinders. Have repaced power pack,run diagnostics on the stator and the kill circuit (black/yellow wire) and found no problems. What else could it be?
ANSWER : The only part left is the Timer base/ trigger assembly mounted where the sator is under the flywheel. It is p/n 0582041. You may have a difficult time finding it though.

Read Full Q/A … : Sport & Outdoor – Others

My swimming pool. I have just had my fifth IC 40 Intellichlor chlorine generator installed in 4 years at a cost of over $900 today. Each one has worked for no more than 8 months. The first three were replaces under three year warranty, the fourth by a factory rep and I bought the fifth today. The first three all failed with Flow Chk PCB error message. The fourth just stopped working on Sunday, no power or lights. A local Pentair warranty person, whom I paid a Service Call, unplugged the unit, opened the small power center cover, showed me the green light indicating that there was power, plugged in a new IC 40 which worked immediately (as did the other four). I asked if I should replace the power center and he said that it’s basically just a transformer and is working fine. We do get occasional power blips that make the clocks on microwaves, etc blink, but I thought that the power center essentially isolates the cell from these. I do have a Florida Power and Light surge protector on the electrical box that brings power into the house. I have now talked to the pool builder, two Pentair warranty repairmen and one factory rep. I am at a loss. They all tell me they have no idea why these units fail after less than a year. This last IC 40 was installed 3/24/2010, version 2.0 and now failed in less than 5 months. Should I replace the power center that the IC 40 plugs into. Any other suggestions. I have been told that this is the best chlorinator. I don’t want to keep replacing units. By the way, each unit had been spotless inside. I keep the water chemicals and salt levels at ideal levels. The units have never worked long enough to get dirty inside. The power center is connected to an Intellitouch control system outside with an indoor control panel. Last time I called Pentair North Carolina and got some smart alec tech person that had no suggestions. Please Help if you can.
ANSWER : I’ve had the same experiance. On my fifth one as well. Fail every year. No idea why.

Read Full Q/A … : Sport & Outdoor – Others

Spark plug wire boot grounding out on coil, 96 outback 2.5 automatic, just put new spark plug wires, new spark plugs, and new coil on. ran great for two weeks, now spark is jumping out of boot at coil on one wire, put old coil back on and still does it in the same spot. replaced wires again, and still does it in the same spot. seems to do it only under a load. Is my new spark plug on that cylinder bad? Does the coil need some insulation under it? It is the coil that sits right on top of the motor. Any ideas? thanks.
ANSWER : Sparks are high voltage, and will always follow the path of least resistance. If you can visibly see a spark (whether in a lighted area, or in the dark), that means either that a plug wire (or coil wire) is open (non conductive), or your have a carbon track on the surface where the spark can be seen, but most likely you have BOTH problems!

If you have an ohmmeter, check the resistance of each wire involved, particularly spark plug wires … which means you must be able to connect to both ends of each wire at the same, and hopefully, FLEX those wires, to be sure they don’t have a break inside that is intermittent (comes and goes)!

Read Full Q/A … : Sport & Outdoor – Others

I have a Kohler Condidant 5 Generator that will run as long as you hold the start button in. It dies when you let off. I have a harness for the remote switch but no switch – It also will start the generator when you cross the red and black wire and run as long as you hold them together. There are 3 wires to the main switch and 5 to the remote switch. Does the starter stay engaged the whole time you hold the start switch or does the computer release the starter once it is running? The Generator is producing electricity because I tested it while holding the start button. Some where is a wire that shold tell it to keep running. I have read online many descriptions of the same problem, most are told the board is bad so they replace it and still have the problem. Have not found a solution. Talked to a marine machanic today and he said he fixed his friends generator doing the same thing by running a bypass wire but he couldnt remember exactly what he did it was a long time ago. Can anyone help me. Thank you
ANSWER : The problem is either the ballast resistor or the starter bypass relay. The bypass relay should be part of the starter solenoid. I’m afraid I can’t tell you exactly where the ballast resistor is located. It should be a physically fairly large resistor made of ceramic. It should be retangular roughly 1.5″-3″ long and 3/8″-1/2″ accross with a wire on each end. It could also be a coil of wire mounted on a phenolic board.
If you need more help just add a comment and I’ll respond as soon as I get the message.

Read Full Q/A … : Sport & Outdoor – Others

Trying to install a new fluro light, pull out old light to find 3 reds and 3 blacks 1 copper earth. What do I do to connect it up the right way??? When I pulled the old Fluro light out the 3 Reds were joined together with a connector ,two blacks were joined to one end of light wire, the other to the other end of the light wire,earth wire to the light case,the third black wire was connected to the wire from the ballast? Does this all make sense
ANSWER : No, this does not make sense but I have seen strange wiring before. There is power going from the light someplace else. Just connect it back up exactly as the old light was connected. It worked before so it will work again. If it works it is wired correctly. Without being there to check which wire was the hot wire and which was neutral it is impossible for me to say what is what. Make sure you connect the ground wire to the light chassis.

Read Full Q/A … : Sport & Outdoor – Others

HAVE A 1996 28HP JOHNSON OUTBOARD W/ NO SPARK TO ONE CYLINDER, IF I CONNECT THE HOT LEAD FROM THE CD2 TO BOTH COILS THEN I HAVE SPARK IN BOTH CYLINDERS, DOES THIS CONFIRM A BAD CD2 PROVIDED IT ISN'T THE WIRE IN BETWEEN
ANSWER : Hello.

You have done well to diagnose the problem, and you are correct. It is a bad CD2.
The CD2 interprets a signal from a magnetic pickup, and sends the spark accordingly to each cylinder. The unit is getting a input, or you would have no spark in either. that leaves only one possibility!
If you have a meter it would be worth while checking the wire also as these are subjected to vibration and heat, but it is rare.

I hope this points you in the right direction.
Regards
GM

Read Full Q/A … : Sport & Outdoor – Others

My 1977 Evinrude 140 HP outboard engine looses power when it hits @4,200 rpm’s and goes down to 3,500 then back up to 4,200 and then back down to 3,000 or about there. This would continue if I didn’t slow down to 3,000 on my own. It runs fine at @ 3,000 when I slow it down. I have changed all the fuel lines from the fuel tank to the carbs, removed, cleaned out the fuel tank, put new gas and added a can of SeaFoam. I replaced the water seperator filter and cleaned the fuel filter. I feel the fuel pump is operating OK. Any ideas about what could be causing my problem? Could it be a bad power pack or stator? Help!!
ANSWER : Hi, this is obviously a stator problem since you have cleaned the fuel filter..

Take care

Read Full Q/A … : Sport & Outdoor – Others