held in place dislodged or broke.
Mossberg
Experienced athletes share their insights in answering this question:
The gun will need to be repaired by a gunsmith. It is unsafe to even load it in it’s current condition.
How to Identify and Resolve Common Issues ?
We offer a diverse range of insights on identifying and resolving common problems in sports. Our sources encompass academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays shared by seasoned athletes. :
The safety switch on many pump shotguns is built into the back of the trigger guard. The safety is a button that can be pushed from either side of the weapon. Making the weapon safe requires pushing this button into the “safe” position.
This can be caused by a variety of factors, including a dirty or worn extractor, a weak or broken ejector spring, or low-quality ammunition. The first sign of weak ejectors is a decrease in distance that spent shells eject. Inspecting the ejecting spring and cleaning the extractor usually fixes this issue.
By break-action, we mean the gun “breaks” in two on a hinge to expose the breech. There is typically a lever on top of the gun behind where it breaks. Pushing the lever to one side releases a lock and allows the firearm to open. Most break-action shotguns have a single or double barrel.
In double-trigger designs, it is often possible to pull both triggers at once, firing both barrels simultaneously, though this is generally not recommended as it doubles the recoil, battering both shotgun and shooter, particularly if it was unanticipated or unintended.
Double-action triggers provide the ability to fire the gun whether the hammer is cocked or uncocked. This feature is desirable for military, police, or self-defense pistols.
Almost all modern semi-automatic handguns, except some exact replicas of antique models, have some form of safety mechanism including a “drop safety” that requires a trigger pull to discharge a cartridge.
No, the safety is not reversible.
Short-strokers beware: First-time users of pump-action shotguns are often guilty of short-stroking, or not working the slide through it`s entire cycle. Though easily rectified with practice or proper instruction, this can cause jams and misfires.
“You can grab the slide, with the barrel pointing up, and pump your arm real hard, or you can also set the gun down and run the slide with one hand, then pick it back up.” Ultimately, there are a multitude of ways in which one can operate a pump shotgun one-handed.
Used less for direct combat and more as a tool, shotguns in the modern military provide a method of breaching doors as well as allow for less lethal ammunition in civilian uses.
The propellant explodes and releases gases that expand and drive the bullet through the barrel and out the muzzle. The force with which the bullet and expanding gas explode from the muzzle will shove the firearm backward, which is what you experience as recoil.
What Is the Recoil on a 20-gauge Shotgun Like? A 20-gauge shotgun produces between 11 and 19 ft-lbs of recoil energy depending on the load that is used. Most people find the recoil of a 20-gauge shotgun to be similar to that of a 6.5 Creedmoor rifle. The recoil is mild for any adult and most youth shooters.
Having two triggers makes it easier to choose and use one barrel over the other, allowing the shooter to have a choice of two different chokes or cartridges that can be used depending on the bird.
A Double Action (DA) trigger allows the user to fire a pistol or revolver in two ways; either by pulling the trigger or cocking the hammer back then pulling the trigger. With a Single Action (SA) trigger, the only way the pistol or revolver can be fired is by first cocking the hammer and then pulling the trigger.
A Double Action (DA) trigger allows the user to fire a pistol or revolver in two ways; either by pulling the trigger or cocking the hammer back then pulling the trigger. With a Single Action (SA) trigger, the only way the pistol or revolver can be fired is by first cocking the hammer and then pulling the trigger.
Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
Mar 12, 2010 – Could it be the check valve? I took it off and the flap appears to be working correctly. This well has been here a long time. Never given me any problems. I do have galvenized couplers on the discharge and intake sides. Old. Could these be leaking even though they show no sign of water? The discharge is able to hold 30 pounds easily overnight. I do not hear any vacuum in the intake when I take it off. Could the pipe to the well have a leak? I know I would have to insert a sleeve bnut I do not want to go through the hassle if I do not have to. I had put on a brand new pump from the hardware store that did the same thing so I think that would elliminate the pump as being the problem.
Mar 12, 2010 – I have a 3/4hp flotec convertible jet pump. It is able to hold 30lbs pressure on the discharge side as the primie easily for 24 hours. It is not able to pull water from the well whcih has been here for years. i disconnected it for the winter and rehooked it up. The galvanized couplers on the discharge and pump side are old but do not appear to be leakeing as I taped them well. The check valve seems to be functioning well as I took it off and the flap works correctly. The well is not pulling watrer. there does not appear to be a vacuum on the check vale when I losen it. could the check valve be bad? I am aware I might have to resleeve the well, but do not want to hassle with this if I do not have to. I want to eliminate everything else first. i put another brand new pump on it to see if it was that. That partiuclar pump which was the same thng did not work either.
Mar 12, 2010 – I have a 3/4hp flotec convertible jet pump. It is able to hold 30lbs pressure on the discharge side as the primie easily for 24 hours. It is not able to pull water from the well whcih has been here for years. i disconnected it for the winter and rehooked it up. The galvanized couplers on the discharge and pump side are old but do not appear to be leakeing as I taped them well. The check valve seems to be functioning well as I took it off and the flap works correctly. The well is not pulling watrer. there does not appear to be a vacuum on the check vale when I losen it. could the check valve be bad? I am aware I might have to resleeve the well, but do not want to hassle with this if I do not have to. I want to eliminate everything else first. i put another brand new pump on it to see if it was that. That partiuclar pump which was the same thng did not work either.
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ANSWER : Your well has gone dry it seems. It has happened to my before. At first the new pump I purchased that did not pump I took back for exchange and still no water. I finally gave in and called the well experts and I was told the well was dried up
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I have a 1987 mercury 9.9 outboard drive problems
ANSWER : The inside of the prop has a rubber between the prop itself and the inside splines to act as a shock absorber,say if you were to hit a rock. that rubber had spun out and the splines are turning inside the prop. the prop is screwed. seen it 100 times before.
Read Full Q/A … : Mossberg
Need the wire diagram to rewire my Ariens lawnmover to bypass the safety switch. It is Ariens GT-19 model # 931026 Serial # 001463.
Can you help? It is an old Ariens mower but still runs good but now I need to bypass the safety switch in order to run it any longer. The local Ariens dealer said I need to go through the internet and get the wire diagram as they cannot give it to me directly. They told me I needed the wire diagram and the part involved in bypassing the safety switch. Hope this is all the information you need to help me.
Can you help? It is an old Ariens mower but still runs good but now I need to bypass the safety switch in order to run it any longer. The local Ariens dealer said I need to go through the internet and get the wire diagram as they cannot give it to me directly. They told me I needed the wire diagram and the part involved in bypassing the safety switch. Hope this is all the information you need to help me.
Thank you. Roger Fielitz
ANSWER : Here is owner manual:http://apache.ariens.com/manuals/030305C.pdfusually the switch is behind the ignition, sometimes at the N position of gearshift, just look for a switch with one wire coming in & one going out (usually the same color); disconnect the two wires & jumper them together to bypass the switch. Looks like yours has one under the seat.
Read Full Q/A … : Mossberg
I have a York Stellar model mid efficiency furnace Model # P?UCD12N07601A, Serial # EXAM3600524 installed in 1992. The HSI was replaced approximately 3 months ago. Over the last two weeks the ventor motor comes on, the HSI lights but does not ignite the gas. The ventor motor runns continously and the HSI continues to turn off and on without gas ignition. Some times by turning the ventor motor off and on (by opening and closing the bottom furnace faces panel door) will give be ignition after the HSI goes through 1-4 cycles. If I can’t get it to work I call my furnace repair guy. The serviceman thought it was the pressure switch and ordered one. Just this last weekend I had no heat and another service guy came in replaced the HSI again and adjusted the pressure switch and said this fix should work. Less than a day later furnace still experiencing the same problem-Ventor motor comes on, HSI comes on but no gas ignition. ventor motor runs continuously and the temperature in the house drops! I’m frustrated and the servicemen don’t seem to know how to fix the problem for good.
ANSWER : Make sure the vent pipes that exhaust the fumes are not blocked in any way and also check the drain line to be sure it is not kinked from the vent motor to the trap. Take the hoses off the vent motor and the pressure switch and make sure all the hoses are clean and free from debris also check the trap on the drain hose and make sure it has water in it if it doesn’t this will creat a negative pressure in the vent motor housing not allowing the vent pressure switch to make.
Read Full Q/A … : Mossberg
I have a Kohler Condidant 5 Generator that will run as long as you hold the start button in. It dies when you let off. I have a harness for the remote switch but no switch – It also will start the generator when you cross the red and black wire and run as long as you hold them together. There are 3 wires to the main switch and 5 to the remote switch. Does the starter stay engaged the whole time you hold the start switch or does the computer release the starter once it is running? The Generator is producing electricity because I tested it while holding the start button. Some where is a wire that shold tell it to keep running. I have read online many descriptions of the same problem, most are told the board is bad so they replace it and still have the problem. Have not found a solution. Talked to a marine machanic today and he said he fixed his friends generator doing the same thing by running a bypass wire but he couldnt remember exactly what he did it was a long time ago. Can anyone help me. Thank you
ANSWER : The problem is either the ballast resistor or the starter bypass relay. The bypass relay should be part of the starter solenoid. I’m afraid I can’t tell you exactly where the ballast resistor is located. It should be a physically fairly large resistor made of ceramic. It should be retangular roughly 1.5″-3″ long and 3/8″-1/2″ accross with a wire on each end. It could also be a coil of wire mounted on a phenolic board.
If you need more help just add a comment and I’ll respond as soon as I get the message.
If you need more help just add a comment and I’ll respond as soon as I get the message.
Read Full Q/A … : Mossberg
Hi,
After a recent snowstorm, the auger stopped turning on my Troy Bilt Two-Stage Snow Thrower (Storm 1130). I inspected it and found that I broke two shear pins and the auger drive belt appeared to need replacement. So, I replaced the pins and then replaced the auger drive belt, following the instructions in my operator’s manual. Now, when I hold down the lever that should cause the auger to start spinning, I get white smoke coming from the machine and a smell of burning rubber. I’m assuming I installed the drive belt incorrectly, but for the life of me, can’t figure out what I’m doing wrong. More significant snow is on the way tomorrow, so any quick answers/suggestions would be MOST appreciated!!!
After a recent snowstorm, the auger stopped turning on my Troy Bilt Two-Stage Snow Thrower (Storm 1130). I inspected it and found that I broke two shear pins and the auger drive belt appeared to need replacement. So, I replaced the pins and then replaced the auger drive belt, following the instructions in my operator’s manual. Now, when I hold down the lever that should cause the auger to start spinning, I get white smoke coming from the machine and a smell of burning rubber. I’m assuming I installed the drive belt incorrectly, but for the life of me, can’t figure out what I’m doing wrong. More significant snow is on the way tomorrow, so any quick answers/suggestions would be MOST appreciated!!!
ANSWER : The shear pins shear because the auger is stuck or the shaft it is on has seized bearings
work in that area
work in that area
Read Full Q/A … : Mossberg
2011 ninja 1000 fuel pump not coming on
first cycle of the key, but injectors come on.
first cycle of the key, but injectors come on.
Engine killed when i hit a bump and let out clutch.
I restarted it and let out clutch and it killed again.
I parked the bike on the stand and let it sit for an hour, then i restarted it and the bike started up, when i gave it gas it backed fire.
Do you think it could be the fuel pump or relay? The shop thinks it could be the kick stand switch, but even acts up on neutral and the gas pump doesn’t come on first cycle of key when cold. Only injectors come on.
ANSWER : I would agree with the shop, as far as check the simply things first.while trouble shooting you want to start with the easy things, if you jump right into the pricey things and that is not it you have spent money and time and still have the problem. If you have a multimeter it will make this pretty easy. put your meter on the ohm setting and open and close the switch ( sidestand, clutch, ect.) if one of your safety swtich is not working right it will make your bike act up. start with that and if they are all working as they should please let me know and we can go deeper into it. I had a bike come into the shop that would cut out while riding, every bump every turn. I chased my tail because i didn’t start simple. i sent a lot of time and ended up paying for a fuel pump out of pocket because that wasn’t the problem. All the switches where working and nothing seemed right everything was working. after a few days while raising the bike on the left i notched the side stand moving a little with ever little bump on the way up. long story short the spring on the side stand had lost it’s ” spring” and won’t hold the side stand up right, every bump every turn the side stand moved a little letting the switch open and kill the bike .let me know what you find and if you need more help I’ll get and send you the wiring diagram and we can start work out the problem.M.Woodring
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