ddenly .now it won,t start . I have good fire at plugs. motor wants to start,but won,t run.did Icut key off at fly wheel. Roger
Sport & Outdoor – Others
Experienced athletes share their insights in answering this question:
Well the only way to tell is to check your timing or pull the fly wheel and check. These are not to hard to bull apart. Getting the fly wheel off the shaft is the worst part. Another thing you could check is the motor ground this would give you weak spark though.
How to Identify and Resolve Common Issues ?
We offer a diverse range of insights on identifying and resolving common problems in sports. Our sources encompass academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays shared by seasoned athletes. :
Your starting issue could be damaged gaskets or maybe worn-out piston rings, scored cylinder or piston, bad crank seal, reed valve, or a damaged head gasket. Using a compression tester or contacting a place that can service your snowmobile will be the best way to go if the problem looks too serious.
One of the biggest signs your snowmobile has a bad fuel pump is when you routinely lose power whether you`re climbing a hill or going at high speed. In many cases, lost power is actually a sign of another problem such as an engine issue or a pinched fuel line.
Arctic Cat announced in June 2010 that it would stop buying snowmobile engines from Suzuki at the end of 2013 and move the manufacturing to its plant in St. Cloud.
Introduced on a limited basis in 1975 with a Kawasaki free air engine, the first Jag was not shown in the 1975 sales brochure or even distributed nationally.
Darting occurs when the sled`s steering is responding to the direction of even small ruts in the trail rather than your steering input. As the sled encounters new ruts, it`s shifted in an unpredictable side-to-side manner.
Throttle sticking is a generic term for something holding the throttle body open when you release the flipper. It can be caused by ice build-up between the cable and the flipper, not allowing the cable to retract fully. This can happen when rolling the sled over or riding in wet snow conditions.
Textron Motors | Arctic Cat.
1997. – Arctic Cat launches snowmobiles with the first batteryless electronic fuel injection.
The 340cc engine laid down 30 horsepower and could reach a top-speed of about 60 miles-per-hour.
Twomey, stated: “Suzuki has been an outstanding engine supply partner for more than 25 years and remains a significant shareholder in Arctic Cat. However, we are changing our engine strategy in order to gain more control over our products, and enhance our ability to meet regulatory and performance requirements.
Look for any tears, missing lugs or studs, shredding, etc. Minor issues aren`t usually cause for immediate concern but can eventually lead to damage to the whole track. Missing or tears in lugs is a clear sign your track will soon need replacing. (Remember: the more wear in profiles, the less traction.
The leading causes of snowmobile accidents are excessive speed, use of alcohol, lack of experience and poor judgment. Snowmobile accidents result in approximately 200 deaths and 14,000 injuries each year with accidents occurring on roadways, highways and public and private trails.
Avoid opening and closing the throttle continuously, which causes inefficient fuel burning and increases emissions and noise. Don`t tamper with your exhaust pipes, as that causes the machine to exceed legal noise limits.
Fuel lines, dirty air filters, and throttle body issues can all cause a delayed throttle response. You can avoid this issues by installing a Throttle Response Controller. Engine response time will be improved, and you`ll enjoy driving your car more.
Filth, carbon, and dirt can build up in the housing creating problems with air flow. Known as coking, the normally smooth service for air to travel becomes full of gunk and creates an imbalance. This interrupts that perfect mixture of air and fuel which can cause the butterfly valve to get stuck.
Because fuel pumps constantly run whenever the ignition is turned on, they can eventually wear out and weaken over time. A weak fuel pump may still pump fuel, but the vehicle may experience difficulty starting from the lack of pressure.
Just because you hear the fuel pump run does not mean it is pumping the correct pressure to the injection system. If the pressure is real low or the filter is plugged solid, then the pump may not get enough fuel to the fuel rail. The only way to know is to test the fuel pressure at the fuel rail test port.
Sometimes it`s an easy fix. The top three reasons why your snowmobile won`t start after the summer season is over are: Fouled spark plug – They just get plugged up sometimes and need to be changed. Fuel Quality – Fuel tends to degrade in quality when it sits around during the off-season.
Low compression can be caused by many problems, but most frequently it`s worn out piston rings or any of a number of valve problems. You`ll probably need to take it in for servicing if this is the case. Those are the most common causes of problems starting a snowmobile when it`s been sitting for a long time.
Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
The Bike Technicians Tactic Phase1 An electrical inspection on the bike should produce results. First, the bike battery powers the entire lightening systems mentionable as ignition, meter readings, head lamps, signal indicators. However, the battery provides the power supply to several entities though also significant is the fuse box containing circuit protection coils. Inserting the bike key into the ignition to perform start mode displays the capacity power circuits. A charged battery should display an indication in the meter reading area also known as bike dashboard grading. A malfunctioning start mode on inserting key in ignition may be traceable several locations on the electrical circuits. Attempting to repair the electrical power of the bike usually requires batter power power test kit. The test kit ascertains the battery power making possible progress to the remaining electrical circuits. Test kit also ascertains the fuse box circuit functionality either with fuses still intact or extracted allowing for the next progress level. An observation tour of the bikes electrical wiring kits from battery hold through fuse box compartments to each lightening display area either headlamps, indicators, and meter reading should produce results of any visible damages that may require repairs after the electrical inspection has been performed. Once any faults were observed on the electrical channels, repair mode is the next level. A dull battery either may have been depleted completely of durational capacity requiring another for replacement. Alternately, a depleted power supply due to prolonged storage may require charge functionalities. Usually, a device capacapble of restoring a battery of electrolytes is resorted for charger ability. The type of battery may require constuents either liquid cathode replenishment in the battery entrapment area prior to charging feature is assumed with electrolyte machine. Once the battery has regained full functionality makes way the next repair task. The fuse box may have simply required replacement fuses either as missing or burnt out. A fuse box usually contains additional spare for replacement functionalities. An alternate arrangement at acquiring fuses on the auto mart may replace the burnt devices. The next electrical task is wiring fixtures achievable by mending broken cords with appropriate electrician’s tapes else malfunctions may remain. Alternately, a worn-out electrical wire is replaceable by acquiring the entire extension lengthwise between significant areas. The last remaining electrical units are lightening indicators consisting of bulbs or luminescent displays reflectors. Observe the blub areas either by loosening covers to inspect for observable burnouts else the entire electrical circuitry is ready for functionality observations with separate entities. Engine Technicians Tactic PHASE 2 A bike engine inspection includes observation for indications of malfunction. Any fluid residue is indication of problem areas. Where oil leaks usually requires engine block inspections. A bike engine consists of an entrapment compartment where mechanical combustion takes place. First, the entire observable block consists of an external coating known as engine bloc housing internal component of pistons, rings, and fastens known as cylinder heads. A bike engine has every component embedded within requiring technical expertise to achieve an inspection. Once deciding on the engine task requirements, acquire a tool box with the appropriate componements as first requirement before engine works is commence able. Second, the bike may require an area environment as workshop requirement to attain engine inspections. Third, bike engine are least bulky compared with vehicle engines however assistance would complement the inspection phase. Prior to inspecting the bike engine, a strap mechanism has to be assumed to achieve expert maneuverability also as safe precaution. Unless parts hinder maneuverability at engine locations, the only removable components should be the engine. First, start with disjointing the spark plug cables to acquire accessibility to plugs imbedded on the cylinder heads. The plugs require tools to loosen thereby exposing the combustible area. Once the spark plugs are exposed, two alternatives are likely. First, a spark plug may have gathered rust residue only requiring cleaning to attain regular capacity. The pin area of the spark plug may have been twisted due to overheating and slight melting dislocation. Usually cleaning the residue from old plugs may simply expose the ignitable capacities. However, an observation of twisted plug pin may require twisting back in place to achieve full ignitability once bike engine starts. A bike engine bloc has the pistons as combustibles or blasters of fuel gasoline. The rings perform as strap fasteners whenever the pistons move about combustibility. Usually, the engine entrapment components would have collected residue requiring clearing. Also, pistons together with rings may require replacements either as worn-out due to prolongs tasks or overexerted biker features.
Get to the manufacturer
Motor was running great, but it died slowly and never start again
Check to see if you have a spark -then check if you are still getting fuel-and how old is the fuel-because it is recommended ,an im assuming its a 2 stroke motor,that the fuel should be replace with a fresh 2 stroke mixture every couple of months as the mixture jellyfies and sludges up the carb etc-try those first
We have a 1967 2 strok mercury 65 outboard motor. wont start cold
Wow.It sounds like some people I know.Late starters.Don,t get out of bed ’till 10 am.With all you have written, a check on the operation of the choke (cold start) would be worth looking at.As you crank the motor,squeeze the fuel bulb at the same time and see if that also may help.Hope this helps
I continually get code 90 (low/NO flow) from my 8111. I have disassembled, cleaned EVERYTHING, including the inlet port AT the pump (remind everybody to check this as stuff gets past the filter basket and will plug the pump inlet).
There is No air in the system and I get superb pressure at the outlet, yet I still get code 90. I again removed the flow sensor and put my ohm meter across the flow sensor terminals and activated the flapper and measured an open circuit. I used a heavier magnet to see if I could get make the internals of the sensor move to get an ohm reading, but I get nothing but an open circuit, ie: no measured resistance.
Can I simply bypass the defective flow sensor to trick the 8111 to think it has full flow without damaging the ‘brain’ of the system.?
Intex corp is useless at these questions. They have been out of stock on this sensor for months and are telling me “two weeks” for two months and now it’s “end of August” which I do not believe. Meanwhile I am making no chlorine while the 90 code is showing.
I love the 8111, this is the first problem I’ve had with it, and I’m frustrated that I can not get such an important part from them.
Thanks for listening!
Have you been able to find a solution to this problem. I am having the same issue.
I own an 1992 Yamaha Phazer II PZ 480. I have done a bunch of work trying to get this hunk o stuff going. I have good spark and compression from the motor. I rebuilt both carbs and both clutches it starts and runs fine but when I try to move it just boggs down- no power? Where should l look next to get this thing moving again? I work at a Marina that used to service sno-mobiles so I have the tools to get it done. Could you maybe send me an assembly diagram of where to look and what to do next? Thanks
For an assembly diagram, contact Yamaha directly.
Starting my Mojave 250
I’m having the same problem I guess it popular in mojave I changed the plug and I still get Orange spark is there any ideas it won’t kick start when cold but once warm she runs great and will kick start
I have the Intex Sand/Pump pool filter Model SF 20110. It’s been running real great for the last 4 months. However recently it has been tripping the internal overloads and I have found the pump motor to be very hot when I put my hand against it. I have tried several different solutions, such as a level ground platform that was clear of any obstructions, made sure that the motor vents under the motor was clear of anything that would prevent air flow. I used a non electrical type of lubricate on the impeller. When I would turn on the pump the rotor would not turn but only would hum very loudly and then slowly begin to turn. I also noticed that the motor’s rotor shaft would not turn to freely due the tightness around the rotor’s shaft. After using the lubricate the shaft would turn a little easier. I used an amp meter on the incoming voltage line and the motor would run at 4.5 amp. And yet it still overheated and tripped the motor overloads. I can only think that the motor is still not getting enough ventilation. I have check and cleared all the incoming lines and found nothing block the pumps input or output lines. Any suggestion?
I just looking into this issue my self. The pump cools itself by a internal fan, which is run by the motor. Well I took the housing cover off to find out all the fan blades have broken off and were setting in the base of the pump. Once you remove the fan blades from covering the air intake, it might be fine. I will find out my self once summer gets here.