Extreme Lite Youth Shoulder Pad
What most likely is the problem (absent of more details) is that the seat post has rusted to the inside of the frame. If the bike is stored outside this is a very common problem on less expensive bikes.
I have never heard of a bike manufacturer putting any kind of paint or other anti-corrosion inside of the bike frame to prevent rust.
You can try spraying a little “Liquid Wrench” or WD40 oil on the seat post where it inserts into the frame. Let it sit over night and then tap it with a mallet to try to break the rust free. Use a pair of Channel Lock pliers to get a bite on it and see if you can twist it out.
On a steel bike the very last resort to use, if you by all means have to have that seat post out, is to apply heat to it, with a propane or oxy-acetylene torch. This will probably destroy the paint job and weaken the seat post.
If the bike frame is aluminum, you can get something similar to galvanic corrosion and this can seize the seat post in the frame. The remedy is the same as with the steel frame (but excessive heat and easily melt aluminum very quickly and leave a puddle of molten metal on the garage floor). If the frame is carbon fiber and the seat post is aluminum, carbon and aluminum don’t like to touch each other and they will start a natural chemical reaction of corrosion which could cause the two to stick together (don’t ever use a flame on a carbon fiber bike, it would be the end of the bike and just plain stupid). Anytime aluminum touches carbon or titanium an anti-seize compound should be applied to the parts.
Once you have the seat post removed, use your finger to wipe grease inside the seat tube and on the seat post before reinserting it and you won’t have this problem again.
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What most likely is the problem (absent of more details) is that the seat post has rusted to the inside of the frame. If the bike is stored outside this is a very common problem on less expensive bikes.
I have never heard of a bike manufacturer putting any kind of paint or other anti-corrosion inside of the bike frame to prevent rust.
You can try spraying a little “Liquid Wrench” or WD40 oil on the seat post where it inserts into the frame. Let it sit over night and then tap it with a mallet to try to break the rust free. Use a pair of Channel Lock pliers to get a bite on it and see if you can twist it out.
On a steel bike the very last resort to use, if you by all means have to have that seat post out, is to apply heat to it, with a propane or oxy-acetylene torch. This will probably destroy the paint job and weaken the seat post.
If the bike frame is aluminum, you can get something similar to galvanic corrosion and this can seize the seat post in the frame. The remedy is the same as with the steel frame (but excessive heat and easily melt aluminum very quickly and leave a puddle of molten metal on the garage floor). If the frame is carbon fiber and the seat post is aluminum, carbon and aluminum don’t like to touch each other and they will start a natural chemical reaction of corrosion which could cause the two to stick together (don’t ever use a flame on a carbon fiber bike, it would be the end of the bike and just plain stupid). Anytime aluminum touches carbon or titanium an anti-seize compound should be applied to the parts.
Once you have the seat post removed, use your finger to wipe grease inside the seat tube and on the seat post before reinserting it and you won’t have this problem again.
I continually get code 90 (low/NO flow) from my 8111. I have disassembled, cleaned EVERYTHING, including the inlet port AT the pump (remind everybody to check this as stuff gets past the filter basket and will plug the pump inlet).
There is No air in the system and I get superb pressure at the outlet, yet I still get code 90. I again removed the flow sensor and put my ohm meter across the flow sensor terminals and activated the flapper and measured an open circuit. I used a heavier magnet to see if I could get make the internals of the sensor move to get an ohm reading, but I get nothing but an open circuit, ie: no measured resistance.
Can I simply bypass the defective flow sensor to trick the 8111 to think it has full flow without damaging the ‘brain’ of the system.?
Intex corp is useless at these questions. They have been out of stock on this sensor for months and are telling me “two weeks” for two months and now it’s “end of August” which I do not believe. Meanwhile I am making no chlorine while the 90 code is showing.
I love the 8111, this is the first problem I’ve had with it, and I’m frustrated that I can not get such an important part from them.
Thanks for listening!
first cycle of the key, but injectors come on.
Engine killed when i hit a bump and let out clutch.
I restarted it and let out clutch and it killed again.
I parked the bike on the stand and let it sit for an hour, then i restarted it and the bike started up, when i gave it gas it backed fire.
Do you think it could be the fuel pump or relay? The shop thinks it could be the kick stand switch, but even acts up on neutral and the gas pump doesn’t come on first cycle of key when cold. Only injectors come on.
Authorized Service Centers – Canada Bay Distributors119 Progress Ct.P O Box 70North Bay, Ontario, Canada P1B 8G8Tel: (705) 476-6010Email: [email protected]’s Reel Repair#108-31060 Peardonville Rd Abbotsford, BC V2T 6K5Tel: (604)855-1119 Email: [email protected] PTG Electronics Ltd.3092 Portage Ave Winnipeg, MB R3K 0Y2Tel: (204)831-0862Fax: (204-888-6207 Email: [email protected]
Solids: Same as above but push rod should spin freely without any up/down slop. No need to wait for the bleed off. Go right on to the next one.
