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2. Check all tires forcorrect inflation pressure.
3. Remove any coversthat you put on for storage. Make sure to get them all, especially if youcovered up the refcampererator or furnace vents. Replace the plug in your lowpoint drains and water heater. Check the water heater and refcampereratorcompartment area and clean out any spiders or critters.
4. Check for propaneleaks. Use a spray bottle of soapy water and make sure that there are no openflames or ignition sources. Turn on the main propane supply valve and carefullyspray soapy water on each and every fitting. Watch for soap bubbles forming atconnections that would indicate a leak. Wipe excess soapy water off with apaper towel. Don’t forget to use your nose, if you find a leak or smell gas,turn that main valve off camperht away and get a propane service technician toinspect the camper.
5. Do a visualinspection of the interior and keep an eye open for telltale signs of leaks.Discolored ceilings or paneling near windows and vents may indicate a problem thatdeveloped during storage. Open cupboards and storage areas also and take a lookaround.
6. Take a careful lookat the outside of the camper. Make sure that everything is in place and in goodrepair. Open any storage compartments and have a look inside. Clean out any oldgear that you no longer need or use to make room for new toys and evict anyadditional unwelcome residents that may have found a new home last winter.
7. Take a close look atall hitch components. Look for any damage and replace any items that lookquestionable. Clean off old grease and re-lubricate the hitch componentsfollowing the manufacturer’s recommendations. Go ahead and hitch up, plug inyour lights and test them. Remember to test those trailer brakes manuallybefore moving the camper down the road. A simple, non-technical test is toslowly pull the camper forward and manually apply the trailer brakes to bringthe camper to a stop. Sometimes electric brakes will grab fiercely at firstafter a long period of storage. This is caused by corrosion on the drum’s innersurfaces. Grabby brakes should go away almost immediately, the first few timesyou apply the brakes should clear up the problem. If the problem persists, getthose brakes looked at before you take off on a trip! This may also be a goodtime to have those wheel hubs serviced and the brakes inspected for wear. Do ityourself, or have the local camper shop take care of it. Many campermanufacturers recommend servicing the hubs every 12,000 miles or once a year.
8. Next, check the plumbing.If you don’t have fresh water available where your camper is stored, then youneed to move it. We need to flush out the plumbing system, especially if camperantifreeze was used. Hook up your water hose and fill your fresh water tank.Run your water pump and open each faucet in the camper one at a time and allowwater to flow for a minute or so. If you used antifreeze, let the water flowuntil all color and odor is gone. Also run water in the toilet and the showeruntil all the color is gone and the water is clear. Remember to open your graywater dump valve. Turn off the water pump and hook up your hose to thecity water inlet. Run some more water through the system to get that last bitof antifreeze out, then unhook the hose again. Be sure not to un-bypass thewater heater until you’ve flushed all the lines.
9. To put your bypassedwater heater back in service, reset the valves for normal operation and makesure that the drain plug is in or that the drain valve is closed. If you seewater running down the side of the camper, you may have left the drain plug outof the heater. Now run the water pump and open a hot water faucet. Oncethe water heater tank is full, shut all faucets and wait until the pump turnsoff. Listen for a few minutes to make sure that the pump does not cycle again.If the pump cycles on and off repeatedly, it may indicate a leak somewhere inyour fresh water plumbing. If a leak is suspected, take a flashlight andvisually inspect all the plumbing under your sinks and see if you can spot anyleaks. Look carefully in compartments and inside of cupboards and storage areasuntil you find the drip. Fix any leaks before continuing.
10. Next, sterilize yourfresh water tank and plumbing. Mix about a cup of plain household bleach in agallon of water. Pour this mixture into your fresh water tank and top it offwith the hose. Turn on the water pump and run each faucet until you can plainlysmell the chlorine. Top off the fresh water tank again and let the system setfor at least a few hours, longer is better. Then, drain the fresh water tankand refill with clean water. Flush the system out by running the clean waterthrough each faucet again. Use lots of water, until the chlorine smell is gone.This procedure will usually result in clean, odor free water in your camper. Ifyou have problems with lingering antifreeze taste or chlorine odor, you canre-flush the system using I cup of baking soda dissolved into 1 gallon of waterand follow the same procedure as above.
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This will allow your water to drain from the tank. Be sure to open both the hot and cold lines and leave them open for a minimum of fifteen minutes to ensure all water has drained out. Leaving your water pump on during this process is helpful in draining the water quicker.
If it`s really low or actually empty, you need to add fluid to your vehicle. While it`s ideal to add a 50/50 mix of coolant and water (or a pre-mixed coolant), if you absolutely have to keep driving, you can add water to the radiator to get you to your destination.
Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue
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The t-stat you have is a Honeywell TH8321U1055 That probably is an OEM number but will program the same as any TH8321U t-stat….
Here is a tip that I wrote about that t-stat…
Here is a tip that I wrote about finding the manual(s) that you need
This should be the operating manual that you need…
Thank you in advance for your help
If you want detailed procedure for both the ways.Just click on the link below and go through the instructions:—-
This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.