he oil is not going into the transmission. The rear clutch release lever is pulled out. the front clutch release lever can be pulled out by hand but doesn’t want to stay out. With the engine running the oil in the reservoir remains perfectly still, no bubbles.
What am I omitting to do? cheers allan
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Experienced athletes share their insights in answering this question:
Checking transmission oil level

Check the oil level every time before using to ensure it is correct. The machine should be
standing on level ground.
Read off the oil level in the reservoir (9:R). It should be between the MAX and MIN marks. If necessary, top up with more oil.Type of oil:4WD – Synthetic oil 5W-50HST – SAE 10W-30 (20W-50)Draining the transmission oil1. Run the machine at variable speeds for 10-20 minutes to heat up the transmission oil.2. Position the machine completely horizontally.3. Pull out both disengagement levers.4. Place one container under the rear axle and one under the front axle.5. Open the oil reservoir by removing the cover. Only a 3/8″ square drive may be used for the oil plug. Other tools will damage the plug.6. Remove the oil plug from the rear axle. Clean the hole and use a 3/8″ square drive.7. Remove 2 drain plugs from the front axle. Use a 12 mm socket. Allow the oil in the front axle and pipes to run out.8. Check that the gaskets on the drain plugs of the front axle are intact. Reinstall the plugs. Tightening torque: 15-17 Nm. The oil plug will be damaged if it is tightened more to than 5 Nm.9. Check that the gasket on the oil plug of the rear axle is intact. Reinstall in the rearaxle. Tighten the oil plug to 5 Nm.10.Draw out the oil from the deeper section of the reservoir using an oil extractor.11.Dispose of the oil according to local regulations.Filling the transmission with oilThe engine must never be run when the rear clutch release lever is pushed in and the front clutch release lever is pulled out. This will damage the front axle seals.1.Fill the oil reservoir with the new oil. If the engine is run indoors, exhaust extraction equipment must be connected to the engine’s exhaust pipe.2. Check that the rear axle’s clutch release lever is pulled out.3. Start the engine. When the engine is started, the front axle’s clutch release lever slides inwardsautomatically.4. Pull out the front axle’s clutch release lever. NOTE! The oil is drawn into the system very quickly. The reservoir must always be topped up. Air must never be drawn in.5. Set the accelerator pedal to the forward position by blocking it using a wooden wedge. Fill the oil reservoir by hand using new oil.6. Run in the forward position for one minute.7. Move the wooden wedge and set the accelerator pedal to the reverse position. Continue fillingwith oil.8. Run in reverse mode for one minute.9. Change driving direction once every minute as above and continue filling with oil until the bubbling in the reservoir stops.10.Switch off the engine, install the oil reservoir cover and close the engine cover.11.Test drive for several minutes and adjust the oil level in the reservoir.

How to Identify and Resolve Common Issues ?

We offer a diverse range of insights on identifying and resolving common problems in sports. Our sources encompass academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays shared by seasoned athletes. :

Manual transmissions can accept a variety of fluids: regular motor oil, automatic transmission fluid or heavyweight hypoid gear oil.
The space inside the torque converter is normally full of transmission fluid, which helps in transferring power generated from the engine to the transmission. It seems odd, right? Not really! Your vehicle`s engine drives one of the turbines also known as the impeller, that pushes the fluid onto the turbine.
You definitely want to drain both the transmission and the converter as much as you can. Pull the converter and let it drain for several minutes, or even an hour or two. The same goes for the transmission pan.
Transmission fluid will become foamy if there is too much fluid. Excessive fluid prohibits proper lubrication and cooling and slows the rotating crankshaft, similar to the effect of running through water.
There should be a total of 2.6 litres (2.7 qt.) How often should manual gearbox oil be changed? Manual gearboxes normally require an oil change every 30,000 to 50,000 miles. Automatic gearboxes usually have gear oil change intervals of between 60,000 to 100,000 miles.
The oil should be level with the bottom of the plug hole. To remove the plug, reach through the engine bay, or jack up the car, support it level on axle stands at front and rear, and lie underneath the gearbox.
Transmission oil is a type of hydraulic oil! It a medium that transmits power from the engine to the transmission. Meanwhile, other types of hydraulic fluid includes multigrade engine oil, conventional and antiwear hydraulic oil.
The most obvious answer to this question is that gear oil is generally intended for use in manual gear boxes and transmission fluid is for automatic transmissions.
Torque converters, as used in automatic transmissions for vehicles, frequently must be cleaned and, with present constructions thereof, it is not possible to disassemble the converter body to permit simple cleaning of the interior parts.
Instead of using air, the torque converter uses a liquid medium, which cannot be compressed – oil, otherwise known as transmission fluid.
Torque converters, as used in automatic transmissions for vehicles, frequently must be cleaned and, with present constructions thereof, it is not possible to disassemble the converter body to permit simple cleaning of the interior parts.
Rotary flow: The oil flow path, in a torque converter, that is in the same circular direction as the rotation of the impeller (engine crankshaft rotation). Vortex flow: The oil flow path, in a torque converter, that is at a right angle to the rotation of the impeller and to rotary flow.

Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

The Bike Technicians Tactic Phase1 An electrical inspection on the bike should produce results. First, the bike battery powers the entire lightening systems mentionable as ignition, meter readings, head lamps, signal indicators. However, the battery provides the power supply to several entities though also significant is the fuse box containing circuit protection coils. Inserting the bike key into the ignition to perform start mode displays the capacity power circuits. A charged battery should display an indication in the meter reading area also known as bike dashboard grading. A malfunctioning start mode on inserting key in ignition may be traceable several locations on the electrical circuits. Attempting to repair the electrical power of the bike usually requires batter power power test kit. The test kit ascertains the battery power making possible progress to the remaining electrical circuits. Test kit also ascertains the fuse box circuit functionality either with fuses still intact or extracted allowing for the next progress level. An observation tour of the bikes electrical wiring kits from battery hold through fuse box compartments to each lightening display area either headlamps, indicators, and meter reading should produce results of any visible damages that may require repairs after the electrical inspection has been performed. Once any faults were observed on the electrical channels, repair mode is the next level. A dull battery either may have been depleted completely of durational capacity requiring another for replacement. Alternately, a depleted power supply due to prolonged storage may require charge functionalities. Usually, a device capacapble of restoring a battery of electrolytes is resorted for charger ability. The type of battery may require constuents either liquid cathode replenishment in the battery entrapment area prior to charging feature is assumed with electrolyte machine. Once the battery has regained full functionality makes way the next repair task. The fuse box may have simply required replacement fuses either as missing or burnt out. A fuse box usually contains additional spare for replacement functionalities. An alternate arrangement at acquiring fuses on the auto mart may replace the burnt devices. The next electrical task is wiring fixtures achievable by mending broken cords with appropriate electrician’s tapes else malfunctions may remain. Alternately, a worn-out electrical wire is replaceable by acquiring the entire extension lengthwise between significant areas. The last remaining electrical units are lightening indicators consisting of bulbs or luminescent displays reflectors. Observe the blub areas either by loosening covers to inspect for observable burnouts else the entire electrical circuitry is ready for functionality observations with separate entities. Engine Technicians Tactic PHASE 2 A bike engine inspection includes observation for indications of malfunction. Any fluid residue is indication of problem areas. Where oil leaks usually requires engine block inspections. A bike engine consists of an entrapment compartment where mechanical combustion takes place. First, the entire observable block consists of an external coating known as engine bloc housing internal component of pistons, rings, and fastens known as cylinder heads. A bike engine has every component embedded within requiring technical expertise to achieve an inspection. Once deciding on the engine task requirements, acquire a tool box with the appropriate componements as first requirement before engine works is commence able. Second, the bike may require an area environment as workshop requirement to attain engine inspections. Third, bike engine are least bulky compared with vehicle engines however assistance would complement the inspection phase. Prior to inspecting the bike engine, a strap mechanism has to be assumed to achieve expert maneuverability also as safe precaution. Unless parts hinder maneuverability at engine locations, the only removable components should be the engine. First, start with disjointing the spark plug cables to acquire accessibility to plugs imbedded on the cylinder heads. The plugs require tools to loosen thereby exposing the combustible area. Once the spark plugs are exposed, two alternatives are likely. First, a spark plug may have gathered rust residue only requiring cleaning to attain regular capacity. The pin area of the spark plug may have been twisted due to overheating and slight melting dislocation. Usually cleaning the residue from old plugs may simply expose the ignitable capacities. However, an observation of twisted plug pin may require twisting back in place to achieve full ignitability once bike engine starts. A bike engine bloc has the pistons as combustibles or blasters of fuel gasoline. The rings perform as strap fasteners whenever the pistons move about combustibility. Usually, the engine entrapment components would have collected residue requiring clearing. Also, pistons together with rings may require replacements either as worn-out due to prolongs tasks or overexerted biker features.
ANSWER : Get to the manufacturer

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Mar 12, 2010 – Could it be the check valve? I took it off and the flap appears to be working correctly. This well has been here a long time. Never given me any problems. I do have galvenized couplers on the discharge and intake sides. Old. Could these be leaking even though they show no sign of water? The discharge is able to hold 30 pounds easily overnight. I do not hear any vacuum in the intake when I take it off. Could the pipe to the well have a leak? I know I would have to insert a sleeve bnut I do not want to go through the hassle if I do not have to. I had put on a brand new pump from the hardware store that did the same thing so I think that would elliminate the pump as being the problem.
Mar 12, 2010 – I have a 3/4hp flotec convertible jet pump. It is able to hold 30lbs pressure on the discharge side as the primie easily for 24 hours. It is not able to pull water from the well whcih has been here for years. i disconnected it for the winter and rehooked it up. The galvanized couplers on the discharge and pump side are old but do not appear to be leakeing as I taped them well. The check valve seems to be functioning well as I took it off and the flap works correctly. The well is not pulling watrer. there does not appear to be a vacuum on the check vale when I losen it. could the check valve be bad? I am aware I might have to resleeve the well, but do not want to hassle with this if I do not have to. I want to eliminate everything else first. i put another brand new pump on it to see if it was that. That partiuclar pump which was the same thng did not work either.

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ANSWER : Your well has gone dry it seems. It has happened to my before. At first the new pump I purchased that did not pump I took back for exchange and still no water. I finally gave in and called the well experts and I was told the well was dried up

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I have a 2004 60 hp yamaha 2 stroke outboard engine that doesn’t start or run well. Once warm and in the water it will idle in nuetral and also in gear. It accelerates in neutral but will die or lack power if I increase throttle while in gear. Engine will somtimes get to top speed but often while running at top speed engine will start to slow rapidly. Engine has full range of operationout when out of the water where there is no load on engine but is still difficult to cold start. Before these recent problems the engine sat up for several months and I had to change the impeller and spark plugs. Spark plugs fire, cylinders have proper pressure of 100, 100, and 110. I cleaned some fuel lines and filters and got new gas.
ANSWER : Every sympton you are describing here can be attributed to fuel starvation due to blocked jets and or water in carbs, when your engine dies does it die with dry plugs, or wet oily ones?

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Water in the fuel tank of my Zodiac dinghy with Yamaha 2001 50 HP
ANSWER : I’d add a little dry gas to **** up any remaining water and give it a shot

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I have a 1995 Kawasaki TS.All the oil from the tank is filling the bottom of the hull. I think it is coming from the punp on the front of the engine. It is so tight ,I cant even get my hand in the in to feel for oil. How do I repair it. Do I have to pull the engine, and if so is this hard to do? Can I just stop putting oil in the tank and run pre mix.If so what mix should I use? Thanks for any help.Jim.
ANSWER : No, you cannot just run premix, you still need oil for your gears and lower end of your cams and such!

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I have a 99 yamaha f100 four stroke outboard. Problem I have is boat will acclereate fine get up on plane and after running for about a mob at wot will decell and only run around 4500 rpm. Then after coming back to idle will have a slight miss then run smooth and repeat every run. Changed the plugs and fuel filters alll oe yamaha has fresh oil timing belt is good any ideas will help or fuel psi spec. I am an ase master automotive tech so I know alot about engs. To me it feels like it’s running out of gas. Like the carb bows are full when I take off but then runs out after running wot. Any info will help
ANSWER : I have exactly the same problem with my Yamaha F100, have you got any solutions yet?

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I have a Kohler Condidant 5 Generator that will run as long as you hold the start button in. It dies when you let off. I have a harness for the remote switch but no switch – It also will start the generator when you cross the red and black wire and run as long as you hold them together. There are 3 wires to the main switch and 5 to the remote switch. Does the starter stay engaged the whole time you hold the start switch or does the computer release the starter once it is running? The Generator is producing electricity because I tested it while holding the start button. Some where is a wire that shold tell it to keep running. I have read online many descriptions of the same problem, most are told the board is bad so they replace it and still have the problem. Have not found a solution. Talked to a marine machanic today and he said he fixed his friends generator doing the same thing by running a bypass wire but he couldnt remember exactly what he did it was a long time ago. Can anyone help me. Thank you
ANSWER : The problem is either the ballast resistor or the starter bypass relay. The bypass relay should be part of the starter solenoid. I’m afraid I can’t tell you exactly where the ballast resistor is located. It should be a physically fairly large resistor made of ceramic. It should be retangular roughly 1.5″-3″ long and 3/8″-1/2″ accross with a wire on each end. It could also be a coil of wire mounted on a phenolic board.
If you need more help just add a comment and I’ll respond as soon as I get the message.

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