ing and could not get it to turn off so i had to unplug it now it will not come on what can i do
Smartcast Rf 35 Dual Display Wrist Sonar
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Hello!I do beleive the issue with your sounder is the internal power circuit.The job can be completed for abour $50 at either the Humminbird factory or one of the service centers in Canada.Where to ship your items:(if you live in the U.S.)HumminbirdAttn: Service Dept.678 Humminbird LaneEufaula, AL 36027Who to call:Toll-free: 1-800-633-1468Monday – Friday8:00am – 4:30pm CST
Authorized Service Centers – Canada Bay Distributors119 Progress Ct.P O Box 70North Bay, Ontario, Canada P1B 8G8Tel: (705) 476-6010Email: [email protected]
’s Reel Repair#108-31060 Peardonville Rd Abbotsford, BC V2T 6K5Tel: (604)855-1119 Email: [email protected]
PTG Electronics Ltd.3092 Portage Ave Winnipeg, MB R3K 0Y2Tel: (204)831-0862Fax: (204-888-6207 Email: [email protected]
How to Identify and Resolve Common Issues ?
We offer a diverse range of insights on identifying and resolving common problems in sports. Our sources encompass academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays shared by seasoned athletes. :
The Sensitivity or Gain of the unit must be set high enough that it will detect the return signal of a fish. Try turning the Sensitivity/Gain to a higher setting. Sensitivity – all Sensitivity menus to a higher setting. Surface Clutter – adjust so that less surface clutter is blocked.
Since the working voltage of Humminbird sounders is between 10V and 20V, a Humminbird can be used with either a battery from the Angling line or the AV line. With the AV line, you can optionally select the DC stabilizer for longer runtime.
Depth finders are very voltage finicky. If your battery drops just a little some of them will turn themself off.
Connectors are often not inserted properly or the connector is not tightened and this leads to corrosion. Perform a check of fuses and circuit breaker connections. Disconnect the plug to the depth transducer and verify that the sounder unit powers up. If it doesn`t, you need the manufacturer`s assistance.
Press POWER once to turn the unit on. There will be an audible chirp when any button is pressed to confirm the button press. If the unit does not power-up, ensure the unit is fully seated on the mount and that power is available or that all connectors are tightly screwed in.
Fish finders and other electronics need electricity to function. On boats electricity is supplied from the batteries installed in the battery compartment. Excluding special super compact fish finders, most fish finders use DC 12-24 volt power supply.
A normal 500w or less transducer should not have any issues when running out of the water. A higher powered transducer, 1kw or larger, may have the potential of having issues as they normally use water to help cool them down when operating for long periods of time.
If your fish`s water is too hot or too cold, they will be very inactive. Check your heater and verify that your aquarium is at the right level. Other possible causes are overfeeding and improper water quality.
You will not be able to test out the transducer`s ability to read depth when the boat is not in water. Air dissipates the sound waves produced by the transducer and will cause the transducer to not be able to produce a reading.
There are several reasons a transducer might lose a depth reading when travelling at high speeds. It could be related to the transducer`s mounting location, device settings, or the vessel could be outrunning the return signal if it is moving too fast.
The best method to see if a transducer is working or not is to troubleshoot it with a voltmeter. Connect the transducer to the voltmeter, and excite the transducer with the proper excitation voltage. Now measure the voltage output of the transducer at zero load.
There are many things that can cause a transducer to provide unstable readings examples include shock overload, lightning or electrical surges, mis-handling, water ingress, corrosion, broken cable, short circuit. Why does my torque transducer`s shaft not rotate freely? This could be due to faulty bearings.
This makes the question “do fish finders come with transducers” a tricky one to answer. The best answer we can give without going into detail is “Yes, most of the time”.
Why Are Lithium Batteries the Best Choice for Fish Finders? Lithium batteries are a clear winner when powering any deep cycle application, fish finders included.
The fish finder battery time is dependent on the size of the battery you`re using. But, generally, a normal-sized lithium-ion 12 Ah battery can run a fish finder for up to 20-24 hours.
Note that the Fishing Power of each rod is basically the catch quantity/quality multiplier. The higher the percentage, you will catch fish more often, as well as increase your chance of rare catches.
Fishfinder wattage can range from 100 watts for small devices to over 1000 watts for complex deep sea systems. The power of your device will affect both how deep the “pings” can reach and how much detail you get from the returning sound waves.
Like others say, place the fuse next to the battery, ensure your positive and negative wires are hooked to the battery correctly and you`ll have no problems. You`ll enjoy your Helix 7.
When the two terminals of a battery are connected directly with a wire there will be a low resistance path for the current to flow. The wire will get heated a little bit (depends on the diameter of the wire less the diameter more heat) and the battery will be quickly discharged.
The battery cables connect your car`s battery to its computer, ignition, lights and other electrical components. They are essential parts of your car`s operation because they transport power to key points in your vehicle. Without good working battery cables, your vehicle cannot be operated.
Cons: Less Effective in Deep Water: The angle of the transducer will be less effective in deep water. The term “deep water” is tough to define, but on average, anglers will start to see a decline in the quality of images at 75 feet or more.
Depth ranges of 10,000 feet are standard with these broadband devices, which include sounders from all of the major brands.
Fish become frustrated and unhappy when kept in cramped bowls or tanks. House fish in a large filtered tank. All tanks should have a pump to keep water flowing continuously.
It`s pretty easy to tell when fish are sleeping: they lie motionless, often at the bottom or near the surface of the water. They are slow to respond to things going on around them, or may not respond at all (see some sleeping catfish here). If you watch their gills, you`ll notice they`re breathing very slowly.
Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
My swimming pool. I have just had my fifth IC 40 Intellichlor chlorine generator installed in 4 years at a cost of over $900 today. Each one has worked for no more than 8 months. The first three were replaces under three year warranty, the fourth by a factory rep and I bought the fifth today. The first three all failed with Flow Chk PCB error message. The fourth just stopped working on Sunday, no power or lights. A local Pentair warranty person, whom I paid a Service Call, unplugged the unit, opened the small power center cover, showed me the green light indicating that there was power, plugged in a new IC 40 which worked immediately (as did the other four). I asked if I should replace the power center and he said that it’s basically just a transformer and is working fine. We do get occasional power blips that make the clocks on microwaves, etc blink, but I thought that the power center essentially isolates the cell from these. I do have a Florida Power and Light surge protector on the electrical box that brings power into the house. I have now talked to the pool builder, two Pentair warranty repairmen and one factory rep. I am at a loss. They all tell me they have no idea why these units fail after less than a year. This last IC 40 was installed 3/24/2010, version 2.0 and now failed in less than 5 months. Should I replace the power center that the IC 40 plugs into. Any other suggestions. I have been told that this is the best chlorinator. I don’t want to keep replacing units. By the way, each unit had been spotless inside. I keep the water chemicals and salt levels at ideal levels. The units have never worked long enough to get dirty inside. The power center is connected to an Intellitouch control system outside with an indoor control panel. Last time I called Pentair North Carolina and got some smart alec tech person that had no suggestions. Please Help if you can.
I’ve had the same experiance. On my fifth one as well. Fail every year. No idea why.
I continually get code 90 (low/NO flow) from my 8111. I have disassembled, cleaned EVERYTHING, including the inlet port AT the pump (remind everybody to check this as stuff gets past the filter basket and will plug the pump inlet).
There is No air in the system and I get superb pressure at the outlet, yet I still get code 90. I again removed the flow sensor and put my ohm meter across the flow sensor terminals and activated the flapper and measured an open circuit. I used a heavier magnet to see if I could get make the internals of the sensor move to get an ohm reading, but I get nothing but an open circuit, ie: no measured resistance.
Can I simply bypass the defective flow sensor to trick the 8111 to think it has full flow without damaging the ‘brain’ of the system.?
Intex corp is useless at these questions. They have been out of stock on this sensor for months and are telling me “two weeks” for two months and now it’s “end of August” which I do not believe. Meanwhile I am making no chlorine while the 90 code is showing.
I love the 8111, this is the first problem I’ve had with it, and I’m frustrated that I can not get such an important part from them.
Thanks for listening!
Have you been able to find a solution to this problem. I am having the same issue.
The Bike Technicians Tactic Phase1 An electrical inspection on the bike should produce results. First, the bike battery powers the entire lightening systems mentionable as ignition, meter readings, head lamps, signal indicators. However, the battery provides the power supply to several entities though also significant is the fuse box containing circuit protection coils. Inserting the bike key into the ignition to perform start mode displays the capacity power circuits. A charged battery should display an indication in the meter reading area also known as bike dashboard grading. A malfunctioning start mode on inserting key in ignition may be traceable several locations on the electrical circuits. Attempting to repair the electrical power of the bike usually requires batter power power test kit. The test kit ascertains the battery power making possible progress to the remaining electrical circuits. Test kit also ascertains the fuse box circuit functionality either with fuses still intact or extracted allowing for the next progress level. An observation tour of the bikes electrical wiring kits from battery hold through fuse box compartments to each lightening display area either headlamps, indicators, and meter reading should produce results of any visible damages that may require repairs after the electrical inspection has been performed. Once any faults were observed on the electrical channels, repair mode is the next level. A dull battery either may have been depleted completely of durational capacity requiring another for replacement. Alternately, a depleted power supply due to prolonged storage may require charge functionalities. Usually, a device capacapble of restoring a battery of electrolytes is resorted for charger ability. The type of battery may require constuents either liquid cathode replenishment in the battery entrapment area prior to charging feature is assumed with electrolyte machine. Once the battery has regained full functionality makes way the next repair task. The fuse box may have simply required replacement fuses either as missing or burnt out. A fuse box usually contains additional spare for replacement functionalities. An alternate arrangement at acquiring fuses on the auto mart may replace the burnt devices. The next electrical task is wiring fixtures achievable by mending broken cords with appropriate electrician’s tapes else malfunctions may remain. Alternately, a worn-out electrical wire is replaceable by acquiring the entire extension lengthwise between significant areas. The last remaining electrical units are lightening indicators consisting of bulbs or luminescent displays reflectors. Observe the blub areas either by loosening covers to inspect for observable burnouts else the entire electrical circuitry is ready for functionality observations with separate entities. Engine Technicians Tactic PHASE 2 A bike engine inspection includes observation for indications of malfunction. Any fluid residue is indication of problem areas. Where oil leaks usually requires engine block inspections. A bike engine consists of an entrapment compartment where mechanical combustion takes place. First, the entire observable block consists of an external coating known as engine bloc housing internal component of pistons, rings, and fastens known as cylinder heads. A bike engine has every component embedded within requiring technical expertise to achieve an inspection. Once deciding on the engine task requirements, acquire a tool box with the appropriate componements as first requirement before engine works is commence able. Second, the bike may require an area environment as workshop requirement to attain engine inspections. Third, bike engine are least bulky compared with vehicle engines however assistance would complement the inspection phase. Prior to inspecting the bike engine, a strap mechanism has to be assumed to achieve expert maneuverability also as safe precaution. Unless parts hinder maneuverability at engine locations, the only removable components should be the engine. First, start with disjointing the spark plug cables to acquire accessibility to plugs imbedded on the cylinder heads. The plugs require tools to loosen thereby exposing the combustible area. Once the spark plugs are exposed, two alternatives are likely. First, a spark plug may have gathered rust residue only requiring cleaning to attain regular capacity. The pin area of the spark plug may have been twisted due to overheating and slight melting dislocation. Usually cleaning the residue from old plugs may simply expose the ignitable capacities. However, an observation of twisted plug pin may require twisting back in place to achieve full ignitability once bike engine starts. A bike engine bloc has the pistons as combustibles or blasters of fuel gasoline. The rings perform as strap fasteners whenever the pistons move about combustibility. Usually, the engine entrapment components would have collected residue requiring clearing. Also, pistons together with rings may require replacements either as worn-out due to prolongs tasks or overexerted biker features.
Get to the manufacturer
I have a York Stellar model mid efficiency furnace Model # P?UCD12N07601A, Serial # EXAM3600524 installed in 1992. The HSI was replaced approximately 3 months ago. Over the last two weeks the ventor motor comes on, the HSI lights but does not ignite the gas. The ventor motor runns continously and the HSI continues to turn off and on without gas ignition. Some times by turning the ventor motor off and on (by opening and closing the bottom furnace faces panel door) will give be ignition after the HSI goes through 1-4 cycles. If I can’t get it to work I call my furnace repair guy. The serviceman thought it was the pressure switch and ordered one. Just this last weekend I had no heat and another service guy came in replaced the HSI again and adjusted the pressure switch and said this fix should work. Less than a day later furnace still experiencing the same problem-Ventor motor comes on, HSI comes on but no gas ignition. ventor motor runs continuously and the temperature in the house drops! I’m frustrated and the servicemen don’t seem to know how to fix the problem for good.
Make sure the vent pipes that exhaust the fumes are not blocked in any way and also check the drain line to be sure it is not kinked from the vent motor to the trap. Take the hoses off the vent motor and the pressure switch and make sure all the hoses are clean and free from debris also check the trap on the drain hose and make sure it has water in it if it doesn’t this will creat a negative pressure in the vent motor housing not allowing the vent pressure switch to make.
2011 ninja 1000 fuel pump not coming on
first cycle of the key, but injectors come on.
Engine killed when i hit a bump and let out clutch.
I restarted it and let out clutch and it killed again.
I parked the bike on the stand and let it sit for an hour, then i restarted it and the bike started up, when i gave it gas it backed fire.
Do you think it could be the fuel pump or relay? The shop thinks it could be the kick stand switch, but even acts up on neutral and the gas pump doesn’t come on first cycle of key when cold. Only injectors come on.
I would agree with the shop, as far as check the simply things first.while trouble shooting you want to start with the easy things, if you jump right into the pricey things and that is not it you have spent money and time and still have the problem. If you have a multimeter it will make this pretty easy. put your meter on the ohm setting and open and close the switch ( sidestand, clutch, ect.) if one of your safety swtich is not working right it will make your bike act up. start with that and if they are all working as they should please let me know and we can go deeper into it. I had a bike come into the shop that would cut out while riding, every bump every turn. I chased my tail because i didn’t start simple. i sent a lot of time and ended up paying for a fuel pump out of pocket because that wasn’t the problem. All the switches where working and nothing seemed right everything was working. after a few days while raising the bike on the left i notched the side stand moving a little with ever little bump on the way up. long story short the spring on the side stand had lost it’s ” spring” and won’t hold the side stand up right, every bump every turn the side stand moved a little letting the switch open and kill the bike .let me know what you find and if you need more help I’ll get and send you the wiring diagram and we can start work out the problem.M.Woodring
I have the Intex Sand/Pump pool filter Model SF 20110. It’s been running real great for the last 4 months. However recently it has been tripping the internal overloads and I have found the pump motor to be very hot when I put my hand against it. I have tried several different solutions, such as a level ground platform that was clear of any obstructions, made sure that the motor vents under the motor was clear of anything that would prevent air flow. I used a non electrical type of lubricate on the impeller. When I would turn on the pump the rotor would not turn but only would hum very loudly and then slowly begin to turn. I also noticed that the motor’s rotor shaft would not turn to freely due the tightness around the rotor’s shaft. After using the lubricate the shaft would turn a little easier. I used an amp meter on the incoming voltage line and the motor would run at 4.5 amp. And yet it still overheated and tripped the motor overloads. I can only think that the motor is still not getting enough ventilation. I have check and cleared all the incoming lines and found nothing block the pumps input or output lines. Any suggestion?
I just looking into this issue my self. The pump cools itself by a internal fan, which is run by the motor. Well I took the housing cover off to find out all the fan blades have broken off and were setting in the base of the pump. Once you remove the fan blades from covering the air intake, it might be fine. I will find out my self once summer gets here.
Unable to read camera on laptop to load pics
Consider NOT connecting your camera to your computer.
The best way to download pictures from your camera to your computer involves removing the memory card from the camera and plugging it into a card reader (either built-in to the computer or connected via USB or FireWire). This is likely to be faster than connecting the camera to the computer, and won’t run down your camera’s batteries.Once the card is plugged in, it will appear to your computer as a removable drive. You can use the operating system’s drag&drop facility to copy pictures from the card to the computer’s hard drive, the same way you copy any other files. Or you can use any photo cataloging program, such as Picasa ( http://picasa.google.com ).