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HI!
I continually get code 90 (low/NO flow) from my 8111. I have disassembled, cleaned EVERYTHING, including the inlet port AT the pump (remind everybody to check this as stuff gets past the filter basket and will plug the pump inlet).

There is No air in the system and I get superb pressure at the outlet, yet I still get code 90. I again removed the flow sensor and put my ohm meter across the flow sensor terminals and activated the flapper and measured an open circuit. I used a heavier magnet to see if I could get make the internals of the sensor move to get an ohm reading, but I get nothing but an open circuit, ie: no measured resistance.

Can I simply bypass the defective flow sensor to trick the 8111 to think it has full flow without damaging the ‘brain’ of the system.?

Intex corp is useless at these questions. They have been out of stock on this sensor for months and are telling me “two weeks” for two months and now it’s “end of August” which I do not believe. Meanwhile I am making no chlorine while the 90 code is showing.

I love the 8111, this is the first problem I’ve had with it, and I’m frustrated that I can not get such an important part from them.

Thanks for listening!

I have a TX500, never been used (just out of the box) and had to get an electrician to my home for this problem. It will start rolling but quits in a few seconds. The electrician believes that it is a problem in the sensor that rides at the belt. There is only one sensor in the pulley; he thinks that perhaps there should be two as there is a hole placement opposite the one that is in there. When the belt quits, it goes to a number 3 on the board which he thinks is the sensor as well. If he is correct, where do we get another magnet to place there? If he is not correct, please offer help. We did not get a owners manual in the box and surely could use one; where can we get one? Please help…thankyou

I have a 2001 Yamaha XL700Z Waverunner. The compression on both cylinders is about 120, it starts and runs fine – dry. Won’t quite idle, but I can start it and rev it up fine (for a short period, of course). However, as soon as it gets in the water, it will barely run – it will start and sputter and you cannot get it to run more than a few seconds or rev up. Take it back out, let it dry, starts & revs fine. It is not getting any water in the casing that I can tell, its almost as if water is getting something wet through the cooling system that I cannot see?

I am trying to get the pictures from my camera finepix j210

I own an 1992 Yamaha Phazer II PZ 480. I have done a bunch of work trying to get this hunk o stuff going. I have good spark and compression from the motor. I rebuilt both carbs and both clutches it starts and runs fine but when I try to move it just boggs down- no power? Where should l look next to get this thing moving again? I work at a Marina that used to service sno-mobiles so I have the tools to get it done. Could you maybe send me an assembly diagram of where to look and what to do next? Thanks

My swimming pool. I have just had my fifth IC 40 Intellichlor chlorine generator installed in 4 years at a cost of over $900 today. Each one has worked for no more than 8 months. The first three were replaces under three year warranty, the fourth by a factory rep and I bought the fifth today. The first three all failed with Flow Chk PCB error message. The fourth just stopped working on Sunday, no power or lights. A local Pentair warranty person, whom I paid a Service Call, unplugged the unit, opened the small power center cover, showed me the green light indicating that there was power, plugged in a new IC 40 which worked immediately (as did the other four). I asked if I should replace the power center and he said that it’s basically just a transformer and is working fine. We do get occasional power blips that make the clocks on microwaves, etc blink, but I thought that the power center essentially isolates the cell from these. I do have a Florida Power and Light surge protector on the electrical box that brings power into the house. I have now talked to the pool builder, two Pentair warranty repairmen and one factory rep. I am at a loss. They all tell me they have no idea why these units fail after less than a year. This last IC 40 was installed 3/24/2010, version 2.0 and now failed in less than 5 months. Should I replace the power center that the IC 40 plugs into. Any other suggestions. I have been told that this is the best chlorinator. I don’t want to keep replacing units. By the way, each unit had been spotless inside. I keep the water chemicals and salt levels at ideal levels. The units have never worked long enough to get dirty inside. The power center is connected to an Intellitouch control system outside with an indoor control panel. Last time I called Pentair North Carolina and got some smart alec tech person that had no suggestions. Please Help if you can.

I have a wildwood le 25bhbs and the only towing lights working are my signal lights. can’t get running lights or brake lights to work. I saw where it looked like the towing harness may have been pinched. So I repaired that, but, they still do not work. Any ideas? Is there a fuse somewhere I need to check? Do I need to hook the trailer up to my trailer hitch before they will work? Is there a wiring diagram or repair manual somewhere I can get? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.