own against the brake cables. thank you..
kawasaki
How to Identify and Resolve Common Issues ?
We offer a diverse range of insights on identifying and resolving common problems in sports. Our sources encompass academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays shared by seasoned athletes. :
Rear shock preload
To adjust the preload on your bike`s rear shock, you will need a C-spanner to loosen the top locking ring and spin it up the shock to gain access to the adjuster ring. If you want to increase preload so the spring has less travel and to make the bike feel stiffer, turn the adjuster ring clockwise.
Swapping the shock absorbers built for firmness with ones that are made for comfort is an easy way to soften the suspension. Depending on what suspension system is on your vehicle, you can also opt to install Air Suspension.
Rear compression adjustment is usually a small screw on the rear shock body, and fork compression will be a small screw on the fork cap or inside the lugs. They often have markings around them so you can tell which way to turn. Typically, clockwise is tighter/stiffer and counter-clockwise is looser/softer.
One can get oil-based shock absorbers filled with higher viscosity oil (thick oil) that make the ride quite stiff. Or you could get new gas filled shock absorbers that also provide a slightly stiffer ride. There are race / rally based shock absorbing systems that will make the ride stiffer as well.
Keep in mind that air shocks are like tires: you shouldn`t operate the air shocks with no air in them. For a manual system, you should have a minimum of 20 PSI in the shocks.
Turn the knob fully counterclockwise. The “end” of the adjustment (where it won`t turn and click further) is the softest setting (position 1). By turning the knob clockwise, each click will increase the shock resistance.
While stiffer suspension might increase driver sensitivity, improve handling response, and improve tire contact on smooth roads, conversely, it can decrease ride quality, handling performance, and grip on bumpy roads.
A softer suspension will offer more mechanical grip as it will do a better job of keeping the tires on the ground vs a stiff suspension when it comes to depressions, bumps, and surface irregularities in the road.
Adding volume spacers will make the final part of the suspension stroke firmer, requiring more force to bottom out. Reduce the volume of air in the fork or shock air-spring chamber with the addition of 1-2 volume reducers.
Rough, bumpy rides can be due to bad tire alignment, incorrect air pressure – too low, too high, different pressures in each tire – or even the tires not being mounted properly. Worst case scenario could be the rims themselves have become damaged or warped.
If they`re too stiff, though, ride quality will suffer and, more importantly, you`ll sacrifice how well your tires are able to do their job on bumpy or uneven surfaces. Excessively stiff springs can also lead to premature understeer or oversteer.
Rear shock too stiff
When the rear shock is too high, it automatically puts more weight bias on the front. This makes the front end feel soft and mushy and the rear shock feels stiff and hard to get traction when accelerating.
Adding compression (turning clockwise) will stiffen the system, and slow down the compression of the shock.
To summarize, the four main reasons for your car bouncing or swaying are wheels that are not aligned, excessive or uneven wear on the tires, damaged struts and worn shock absorbers, or a loose steering linkage. If you suspect that you need suspension repair, we invite you to bring your car into our shop today!
You can make changes to the springs, spring rates, and dampers (shocks). The adjustments you decide to make will be based on your driving or riding style, body build, and preferences.
The upper and lower shock mount bolts MUST BE TIGHTENED to a torque value of 210 to 235 ft-lbs (285 to 319 N•m). If the shock mount bolts are not properly tightened, failure of the shock absorber may occur that could damage the suspension and/or its components.
Most shocks are designed exactly the opposite of the 90/10 drag shock; you want an acceptable amount of compression and more force on rebound. The more compression, the harsher the bumps, but the harder it works in the turn.
What preload does is adjust the force required to initially make the spring move. Essentially, preload means that the spring is pushing outward on the shock before the shock has even started compressing. To make the shock start to compress, you have to overcome that preload force.
The suspension may feel stiffer when preload is increased, but that`s because adding preload compresses the spring, so it takes more pressure to move the suspension any further. Adjusting preload simply determines the motorcycle`s ride height.
Can you spray WD-40 on a suspension? Yes but it`s not going to stay on your suspension it evaporates. But it can be used as a method of finding what is actually squeaking. But it will not resolve the problem.
Bad shocks affect ride and handling, but they won`t change the ride height of the car.
Compression damping regulates the force that moves a fork or shock through its travel. Compression damping is achieved with fluid, usually oil. This oil circulates through a compression circuit, and by restricting its flow, the suspension can be made firmer and can even be completely locked out.
The shock`s rebound needs to be set quick enough so that the suspension has time to recover, but not so fast that it kicks the rear end of the bike around. It`s often safer to start with a slower setting and remove damping if you feel your shock is sitting too low in its travel, causing it to become stiff.
I can’t get the cable to stop popping off of the pulley underneath the bench press seat. Every time I try to lift weight using the bench press, quadricep curls, or anything that puts pressure on the cable connected to these exercises, the cable pops off the pulley. If you could show me how to get a diagram of how to run the cable or give me another solution to this problem, I would be deeply obliged.
Thanks,
Kendrik
ANSWER : Hello,I had same problem. I fixed it by taking plastic sides off using a long
phillips head screwdriver. Jay, you don’t have to take the sides off to
fix your problem. The sides come off only to untangle and rewind cables
on pulleys. Pull the cables all the way out. Have a helper pull out and
keep holding out the tension knob This is shown at the bottom of page
nine in the manual. With someone holding the tension knob out turn the
large pully located beneith the tension knob CLOCKWISE! I screwed mine
up by turning it counter-clockwise. This winds the handle to the top
and if you start with all the cable pulled off the pully, the cable
should then wind itself nicely back onto the pully. Once the handle is
all the way up, with the round ball on the cable jammed up against the
pully, then and only then let go of the tension knob and let it fall
back into place. If the handle falls down a few inches repeat this
proceedure but push lower pully a bit harder and try to turn tension
knob, while it is pulled out, in the opposite direction and it will
then click into place one notch tighter and should hold the black ball
on the cable firmly against the pulley. Let me know if this was helpful.wish you good luck,take care.