Extreme Lite Youth Shoulder Pad
How to Identify and Resolve Common Issues ?
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Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
What most likely is the problem (absent of more details) is that the seat post has rusted to the inside of the frame. If the bike is stored outside this is a very common problem on less expensive bikes.
I have never heard of a bike manufacturer putting any kind of paint or other anti-corrosion inside of the bike frame to prevent rust.
You can try spraying a little “Liquid Wrench” or WD40 oil on the seat post where it inserts into the frame. Let it sit over night and then tap it with a mallet to try to break the rust free. Use a pair of Channel Lock pliers to get a bite on it and see if you can twist it out.
On a steel bike the very last resort to use, if you by all means have to have that seat post out, is to apply heat to it, with a propane or oxy-acetylene torch. This will probably destroy the paint job and weaken the seat post.
If the bike frame is aluminum, you can get something similar to galvanic corrosion and this can seize the seat post in the frame. The remedy is the same as with the steel frame (but excessive heat and easily melt aluminum very quickly and leave a puddle of molten metal on the garage floor). If the frame is carbon fiber and the seat post is aluminum, carbon and aluminum don’t like to touch each other and they will start a natural chemical reaction of corrosion which could cause the two to stick together (don’t ever use a flame on a carbon fiber bike, it would be the end of the bike and just plain stupid). Anytime aluminum touches carbon or titanium an anti-seize compound should be applied to the parts.
Once you have the seat post removed, use your finger to wipe grease inside the seat tube and on the seat post before reinserting it and you won’t have this problem again.
if it’s one for little kids that costs under $50 – $70 or so then yeah, just get a new one.
if it’s a nice bike that cost you a bit more, i’d get it repaired at a bike shop or a sporting goods store.
Hope this helps!
Solids: Same as above but push rod should spin freely without any up/down slop. No need to wait for the bleed off. Go right on to the next one.
If you don’t know what type you have it is easy to tell, there will be a brake cable sticking out the end of the caliper if they are cable actuated. If they are hydraulic, you won’t see any cables on the calipers.
I can tell you now if you have hydraulic brakes you may not want to attempt this at home. They require a special bleeding kit specific to the particular brand and model that you might have. You will also need special brake fluid depending upon the brand of brakes, they are not universal, some use mineral oil others use particular DOT fluids. Additionally if you have hydraulic brakes and the levers are going all the way to the handlebars, then it sounds like you may have a bigger problem and have air in the lines and need a brake bleed job.
If you have cable actuated disc brakes then you can easily adjust them yourself with only a 5mm Allen wench.
First, run out the cable barrel adjuster on your brake lever until it is almost out.
Second, using the 5mm Allen wrench, loosen (don’t remove) the cable clamp at the caliper. Now hold the cable end in one hand and push the actuating lever up until the pads contact the rotor. It is spring loaded so you will have to hold it in place with one, pull the cable through and then tighten the cable clamp.
Third, go back to the brake lever and you should not have any “play” in the lever or very little. Turn the cable barrel adjuster back into the brake lever and this will ease the brake pads off the rotor and allow the wheel to turn freely.
Often it will take several minute cable adjustments to get it right.
If the rotor is rubbing on the inner brake pad, you can adjust that pad in or out using the 5mm Allen wrench. The inner pad is “fixed” and doesn’t move when the brakes are applied. You can access the Allen head bolt through the spokes with the long end of the wrench and make minor adjustments of 1/4 turn at a time. It could be tight, so you might need to put a box end wrench on the end of the Allen wrench to turn it.
Hope this helps and post any further questions.
Most professional bike shops have a set of what are called “H” tools that are designed to align dropouts on front forks and the rear drop outs. If a bike mechanic has been properly trained and has the experience then he/she will know how to use them.
However these tools are not recommended for use on front shock drop outs. Most shocks have the sliders with the drop outs cast into them. They are usually cast out of aluminum. Cast aluminum has a very low yield point and will easily break and snap in two if they are bent. The “H” tools mentioned above are designed to be used on forks and drop outs made from steel, which has a much higher modulus of elasticity or yield point, and they can be bent, tweaked and coaxed back into alignment without compromising the metal.
Front shock lower sliders are held together and aligned at the factory with a “U” type brace that goes over the tire. This allows the two legs of the shocks to travel in unison. Most front shocks have these two sliders and the U brace cast as one piece to eliminate the need for manual alignment of the drop outs. So if one of your drop outs is tweaked so that the wheel doesn’t fit, then it most likely got damaged in shipping and I would have to assume that you did not purchase it assembled from a local (to you) bike shop. You may need to take it up with the shipping company or with where you originally purchased the bike to get this rectified.