How to Identify and Resolve Common Issues ?
We offer a diverse range of insights on identifying and resolving common problems in sports. Our sources encompass academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays shared by seasoned athletes. :
What is a valve adjustment? The valve mechanism (push rod, lifter, and rocker arm assembly) is adjusted so that the lash has the proper clearance necessary to regulate the opening and closing of the valve. If the lash clearance is too great, it will affect the engine`s airflow and will eventually lead to valve damage.
The camshaft may have two sets of lobes where one set is designed for low and the other for high RPMs. As the camshaft rotates, the lobes push open the spring-loaded valves, which are then closed by the force of springs. An electronic control unit (ECU) selects which set of lobes to use based on the engine speed.
Rule of nine
With any given valve open, count what number valve that is from the front. Subtract that number from nine. Whatever number you`re left with is the valve you`re in position to set. So, with number 1 rocker opening its valve, you`ll be setting clearance on (9 minus 1), number 8 valve.
Valve clearance is verified by inserting a feeler gauge of the correct thickness between the valve stem or rocker arm, and the cam heel. There are three types of valve adjusters: shim over bucket, shim under bucket, and locknut and screw.
Major camshaft manufacturers recommend setting valves cold, to avoid erroneous adjustments on lifters that may be “pumped up” If you are setting valves on a fresh engine that has not been run, everything should be well lubricated before you begin.
Flow control valves control the volumetric rate of the fluid that flows through them. Generally, changing the size of the orifice is how the flow rate is set and adjusted. A tapered needle moving in and out of an orifice or opening and closing the gap inside a ball valve changes this rate.
If you notice that your engine is losing power when you start it or if you hear loud tapping or clicking sound when you start it, your valves may be out of adjustment. A rough idling time, especially before the car warms up, is another sign that your valves are out of adjustment.
How often should you adjust the valve clearance? It depends on your particular situation. If you are just wondering about frequency and notice no symptoms, then every 60,000 miles or so. But it`s time for action when you hear cluttering and experience rough idling or oil consumption.
Too much or too little valve clearance can result in poor performance or a rough idle because the engine can`t “breathe” normally and operate at peak efficiency. Too much clearance means the valves will likely clatter and, over the long term, cause damage to the valves, camshaft lobes or rocker arms.
Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
I have a 2004 60 hp yamaha 2 stroke outboard engine that doesn’t start or run well. Once warm and in the water it will idle in nuetral and also in gear. It accelerates in neutral but will die or lack power if I increase throttle while in gear. Engine will somtimes get to top speed but often while running at top speed engine will start to slow rapidly. Engine has full range of operationout when out of the water where there is no load on engine but is still difficult to cold start. Before these recent problems the engine sat up for several months and I had to change the impeller and spark plugs. Spark plugs fire, cylinders have proper pressure of 100, 100, and 110. I cleaned some fuel lines and filters and got new gas.
Every sympton you are describing here can be attributed to fuel starvation due to blocked jets and or water in carbs, when your engine dies does it die with dry plugs, or wet oily ones?
LX 188. Engine suddenly dies. The fluel in the bowel of the fuel filter is empty. If I crank the engine the filter becomes dry and is collapsing some but the engine does not start. When I remove the supply line from the fuel pump to the carberator and crank the enginge there is a strong stream of gas being pumped out. I tap on the carberator ??? is the float is hung not allowing fuel to enter. Cranking the engine with the line off refills the bowel of the gas filter. Reattache line to the carberator===engine starts. Ran perfect for 20minutes then suddenly died. Repeated all the above and engine again started. What to do to fix this? Thanks
Debrie inside the needle and seat area which has to be cleaned out with carburetor cleaner and compressed air
My engine revs on high by itself and runs rough
We had the same problem with our snowblower. we tried everything. ponits, adjustments. even converted points to electronics. we ened up putting on a brand new carborater and it runs great now. save youself the headaches and buy a new carborator. we spent $87. so much better
Valve tapping in Kaw FD590V
I found a maual online at:
I need to replace a gas valve for a furnace its a york stellar 133,000 btus the old valve number is 36E36-304 but is discontinued i need the new valve that replaces the old one and the price the model of the furnace is P3UCD20N10601A AND THE SERIAL NUMBER IS EBBM032176,can you show me a picture of the valve to compair it with my old valve
You will probably have to go with a “generic” gas valve. Try contacting Grainger to see if they can cross reference a workable solution.
Crosman Pumpmaster 760
Hi I had the same problem and I fixed it by just simply pumping the gun at a faster rate. For some reason when I pumped it slowly air would leak out and no pressure would build up similar to your problem, but when I started to pump it rapidly pressure would build up. Though this little fix works I might just exchange mine because I don’t think the gun should have this problem.
Hello, i think i figured out what it was, after breaking down the valve again i was looking at the rubber that is around the valves and i was thinking at first this wasnt an extra part, but come to find out after many hours of researching online it is an peice that comes off but its just glued on, its a (Spider) gasket. So do u think if nothing is wrong with the valve itself that if the spider gasket is wearing away and starting to get britle that it will let the debris i vacuum up come back in the pool and let the backwash valve leak when its on the filter position? I cant thank u enough for helping me. You sure have lead me in the right direction and saved me alot of money. Otherwise i would of probably gave up and bought another one….thanks and let me know if u think that the buying a spider gasket will solve my problems
The spider gasket that you refer to is what seals the chambers from each other. Leaking here can have a large impact on how well the valve is able to do its job. But, I don’t remember seeing one in the parts diagram. If you are able to obtain one, then by all means, replace it if you can. As I said earlier, you are essentially rebuilding the valve assembly. If something looks worn, now is the time to repair / replace it during reassembly. I also have a suggestion for you as well. Take good pictures, document everything that you do when you disassemble and reassemble the valve. Then write up a tip (gotta become an expert) for others to read through and be able to service their own equipment. I was surprised to see that there were as many other questions asked about the same filter that you have. Highly recommend that you do this. As many times as you have taken this apart and put it back together, you are fast becoming an authority on it!Glad to see that you are sticking it through, and not throwing in the towel. After all is said and done, you will have a working knowledge of how your filter works, and be able to identify issues in the future before they become a problem. Congratulations!