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How to Identify and Resolve Common Issues ?

We offer a diverse range of insights on identifying and resolving common problems in sports. Our sources encompass academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays shared by seasoned athletes. :

There are several causes for a refrigerator that doesn`t cool, including dirty condenser coils, poor ventilation, improper installation, faulty or dirty gasket seals, unorganized food storage, appliance location and malfunctioning internal parts.
The Vents Are Blocked

If you have a warm fridge, but your freezer is still cold, your first port of call should be to check if your freezer is overloaded. Overfilling your freezer can block the vents and prevent cold air from reaching the fridge.

Your refrigerator compressor is responsible for that humming sound. So, if the sound stops for good, or if the sound goes from faint to a constant or very loud humming noise that does not shut off, it may be a sign the compressor is broken or malfunctioning.
It can take about 12 hours to cool the interior down to 40℉ (the food safe recommended temperature as determined by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). But cooling time can vary by brand and refrigerator type. With that in mind, cooling time can range from 2 to 24 hours.
Dirty condenser coils can reduce your freezer`s overall cooling capacity since dirty coils make the condenser retain heat rather than release it. This causes the compressor to overcompensate. To prevent this from happening, make sure to clean your condenser coils regularly. Evaporator Fan is Malfunctioning.
Keep it stocked. A full fridge is a happy fridge because the thermal mass of its contents help maintain temperature (or in other words, the cold stuff helps keep it cold). In a full fridge, the compressor won`t need to cycle on and off as much, which will extend the life of the compressor and reduce running costs.
If your compressor is running hot to the touch, it`s a problem you should take seriously. For example, if you notice scorch marks on the walls behind the appliance, you should disconnect its power source immediately. This poses a fire hazard and a danger to your family.
The three most common reasons for failures that we see as a result of wear & tear are a mechanically locked compressor, failure of the fan motor, and dirty condenser coils. The refrigerator`s compressor is the heart of the cooling system; without a working compressor the refrigerator cannot function.
Fridges and freezers are full of fluid that`s used to cool the compartments. In transit, your appliance gets shaken around, so it`s best to let everything settle before you plug it in.
When the power goes out, you have between four and six hours before the food in your fridge could become unsafe to consume. You can help your food last longer, provided you make sure to keep your fridge and your freezer doors shut. With the food in your freezer, you have a little bit more time.
If you notice frost or ice buildup on your evaporator coil during operation, it`s a sign that the coil is dirty and needs to be cleaned. This happens because the dirt and debris on the coil prevent heat from being absorbed properly, causing the refrigerant to become too cold.
The freezer temperature should be 0° F (-18° C). Check temperatures periodically. Appliance thermometers are the best way of knowing these temperatures and are generally inexpensive. Check storage directions on labels.
The ideal temperature for a fridge is 37°F (3°C) and 40°F (5°C). When you make any adjustments to the temperature of your fridge it will take 24 hours until the temperature comes into place.
The optimal temperature for keeping foods cold is 37 degrees Fahrenheit. If you`re wondering what temperature should a refrigerator be, put a thermometer inside your fridge. A thermometer will tell you the exact temperature. Many newer fridges come with built-in digital thermometers.
An empty refrigerator doesn`t stay cool as easily as one that has the right amount of products inside, while a refrigerator that is too full won`t cool the contents as easily. If you need to fill some space in an empty fridge, try adding some bottles or pitchers of water.
According to Energy Star, old refrigerators use about 33% more energy than a newer model that`s earned the Energy Star certification.
Overheating is one of the main reasons why compressors fail, and it is usually caused by not enough refrigerant in the system.
As the USDA notes in Keeping Food Safe During an Emergency, your refrigerator will keep food safe for up to 4 hours during a power outage. Keep the door closed as much as possible. Discard refrigerated perishable food such as meat, poultry, fish, eggs, and leftovers after 4 hours without power.
You can leave the refrigerator and freezer on if you are gone for less than 4 weeks. Make sure to consume all perishables and freeze all other items. You should also switch off the IceMaker. Gone for longer? Pull the plug!
But there are more than a few reasons why you shouldn`t be turning off your fridge at night. With the fridge switched off, the temperature inside rises, so will the chances of growth of harmful bacteria. This results in the store food items getting stale and making them dangerous for consumption.
No, you should not move or store a refrigerator on its side. When a refrigerator is laid on its side, the oil in the compressor will flow from the compressor tube into the coolant lines.
When a new refrigerator or freezer arrives in their home, most people can`t wait to use it. But remember, it usually takes a unit between 6 and 12 hours to get to the proper temperature to safely store food or keep frozen items properly frozen.
Yes You Can! Make sure you clean the refrigerator before leaving it alone to produce fungus and bacteria from leftovers. Wipe out water from it. Make sure your Refregiretor dosent have something that can decompose, because you are planning to turn it off for a month.

Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

The Bike Technicians Tactic Phase1 An electrical inspection on the bike should produce results. First, the bike battery powers the entire lightening systems mentionable as ignition, meter readings, head lamps, signal indicators. However, the battery provides the power supply to several entities though also significant is the fuse box containing circuit protection coils. Inserting the bike key into the ignition to perform start mode displays the capacity power circuits. A charged battery should display an indication in the meter reading area also known as bike dashboard grading. A malfunctioning start mode on inserting key in ignition may be traceable several locations on the electrical circuits. Attempting to repair the electrical power of the bike usually requires batter power power test kit. The test kit ascertains the battery power making possible progress to the remaining electrical circuits. Test kit also ascertains the fuse box circuit functionality either with fuses still intact or extracted allowing for the next progress level. An observation tour of the bikes electrical wiring kits from battery hold through fuse box compartments to each lightening display area either headlamps, indicators, and meter reading should produce results of any visible damages that may require repairs after the electrical inspection has been performed. Once any faults were observed on the electrical channels, repair mode is the next level. A dull battery either may have been depleted completely of durational capacity requiring another for replacement. Alternately, a depleted power supply due to prolonged storage may require charge functionalities. Usually, a device capacapble of restoring a battery of electrolytes is resorted for charger ability. The type of battery may require constuents either liquid cathode replenishment in the battery entrapment area prior to charging feature is assumed with electrolyte machine. Once the battery has regained full functionality makes way the next repair task. The fuse box may have simply required replacement fuses either as missing or burnt out. A fuse box usually contains additional spare for replacement functionalities. An alternate arrangement at acquiring fuses on the auto mart may replace the burnt devices. The next electrical task is wiring fixtures achievable by mending broken cords with appropriate electrician’s tapes else malfunctions may remain. Alternately, a worn-out electrical wire is replaceable by acquiring the entire extension lengthwise between significant areas. The last remaining electrical units are lightening indicators consisting of bulbs or luminescent displays reflectors. Observe the blub areas either by loosening covers to inspect for observable burnouts else the entire electrical circuitry is ready for functionality observations with separate entities. Engine Technicians Tactic PHASE 2 A bike engine inspection includes observation for indications of malfunction. Any fluid residue is indication of problem areas. Where oil leaks usually requires engine block inspections. A bike engine consists of an entrapment compartment where mechanical combustion takes place. First, the entire observable block consists of an external coating known as engine bloc housing internal component of pistons, rings, and fastens known as cylinder heads. A bike engine has every component embedded within requiring technical expertise to achieve an inspection. Once deciding on the engine task requirements, acquire a tool box with the appropriate componements as first requirement before engine works is commence able. Second, the bike may require an area environment as workshop requirement to attain engine inspections. Third, bike engine are least bulky compared with vehicle engines however assistance would complement the inspection phase. Prior to inspecting the bike engine, a strap mechanism has to be assumed to achieve expert maneuverability also as safe precaution. Unless parts hinder maneuverability at engine locations, the only removable components should be the engine. First, start with disjointing the spark plug cables to acquire accessibility to plugs imbedded on the cylinder heads. The plugs require tools to loosen thereby exposing the combustible area. Once the spark plugs are exposed, two alternatives are likely. First, a spark plug may have gathered rust residue only requiring cleaning to attain regular capacity. The pin area of the spark plug may have been twisted due to overheating and slight melting dislocation. Usually cleaning the residue from old plugs may simply expose the ignitable capacities. However, an observation of twisted plug pin may require twisting back in place to achieve full ignitability once bike engine starts. A bike engine bloc has the pistons as combustibles or blasters of fuel gasoline. The rings perform as strap fasteners whenever the pistons move about combustibility. Usually, the engine entrapment components would have collected residue requiring clearing. Also, pistons together with rings may require replacements either as worn-out due to prolongs tasks or overexerted biker features.
ANSWER : Get to the manufacturer

2005 4 stroke yamaha 150 550hrs. normally use every week but due to surgery not used for 10weeks. Just before I went down I changed internal fuel filter, and zincs in motor. finally put in sunday. motor started fine left dock hit the power and started to come up on plane then stuttered and died. changed the external fuel/water seperator pump up the primer and started up again. with in a minute died down again. limped back to dock checked fuel filter and plug wire connections. pumped up primer and left dock went right onto plane for maybe 150yds then coughed and died. I could pump up primer and it would run but then die out. the fuel filter at the front of the engine would run dry until I pumped it up again. If it were a car I would suspect a leak in a fuel line but I can’t find any sign of one.
before we launched I put 10 gallons of fresh fuel in and added another bottle of ethanol stabilizer (CRC brand)
what proceedure should I follow to isolate the problem? I am a fairly competent mechanic as far as cars and trucks go. I don’t really want to have to take it to a marine mechanic.
ANSWER : This is going to be the fuel pump is not pumping any fuel. The primer is acting as a fuel pump. When you prime it, it gives the engine enough fuel to run for a little bit. But as soon as the fuel runs out, the engine is dying. So this is going to be a bad fuel pump.

2008 Yamaha vx deluxe will only run about 30 mph
ANSWER : If the motor is reaching full revs look at the jet assemby for fouling or prop damage. If it is not reaching full revs get authorised mechanic to fix it, it will be cheaper in the long run.

I have a 2004 60 hp yamaha 2 stroke outboard engine that doesn’t start or run well. Once warm and in the water it will idle in nuetral and also in gear. It accelerates in neutral but will die or lack power if I increase throttle while in gear. Engine will somtimes get to top speed but often while running at top speed engine will start to slow rapidly. Engine has full range of operationout when out of the water where there is no load on engine but is still difficult to cold start. Before these recent problems the engine sat up for several months and I had to change the impeller and spark plugs. Spark plugs fire, cylinders have proper pressure of 100, 100, and 110. I cleaned some fuel lines and filters and got new gas.
ANSWER : Every sympton you are describing here can be attributed to fuel starvation due to blocked jets and or water in carbs, when your engine dies does it die with dry plugs, or wet oily ones?

1985 40 hp Johnson outboard wouldnt open up and
ANSWER : Sounds like your mix is off and it’s fowling the plugs. probably too rich. make sure the level in your carb bowls isn’t too high. Really sounds like you should clean and bench set your carbs. Especially if a plug change helps but doesn’t last, then it’s got to be your fuel mix, or maybe timing.

I would like to hook up a 12 volt battery to the trailer. In the cupboard below the propane stove is a plug with white, black and orange wire to it.
In the AC power converter cupboard I have a plug with a black and orange wire. How do I hook up the battery so that it charges and runs the fridge while I’m driving, and lets me use the lights with the fridge on propane while I’m camping?
ANSWER : You haven’t told us what trailer you have, what DC-AC converter you have, it the wire is original or aftermarket and what gage it is.

Because of that you must first identify the wires. You will need a multimeter for that. Start by finding if your trailer has a negative wire or is using the chassis as the ground. For that disconnect the battery from the truck (make sure you have the radio code handy) then measure the resistance between the 3 wires and the body of the truck – you will find the ground wire when the resistance will be close to 0. Reconnect the battery and measure the voltage between the ground wire and the other 2 – the one with 12v on it is the power one and the other goes to the power input of the converter. Check that by removing the converter and looking where they are plugged – if you have any doubts that they are not the wires from the cupboard just check their continuity.All of this is a 5 minute job. Once you know the wires just connect the ground on to the minus and the power and the converter ones to the plus.

I just purchased this Yamaha boat w/Twin MR-1 140hp motors, less than 100hrs (60 prox)and the starboard motor only reached 8000rpm on a 10000 redline spec (the port motor reaches 10000rpm. I have replaced the spark plugs immediatly and now the motor reaches 9500rpm. When the plugs were replaced the plug wire top of the plugs had a black powder residue (like graphite)and #1 & 4 plug electrode end were black minimal soot and #2 & #3 had a white color residue on the ceramic.

Any suggestions to attain the full 10000rpm?

A Yamaha dealer is 100 miles, so I would like to fix myself if possible. Thanks

ANSWER : I never rec’d an answer…..I WANT A REFUND!