t how to turn my Hayward S244T Hi Rate Sand Filter on, and get it going. While i did manage to get water pumping into the pool, it was not filtering out.

Can you please explain to me what i am suppose to do, and how to do it. I have an owners manual, but i find it very hard to follow, and everything is already installed, i am just having problems filtering it out.

Christine Mincer
Sport & Outdoor – Others

Experienced athletes share their insights in answering this question:
Hello c anna…. Opening up the pool is a pretty big job with lots of steps. That said, here is an excellent link which has all of the steps broken down



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How to Identify and Resolve Common Issues ?

We offer a diverse range of insights on identifying and resolving common problems in sports. Our sources encompass academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays shared by seasoned athletes. :

The most common reason for low or no flow is that the baskets are full of debris. By checking and emptying both the skimmer basket (by the pool) and the pump basket (inside the pump) will free up the water flow, allowing the system to fully `prime` and function at full capacity.
Yes, pools can freeze solid within a few days of temperatures dropping below zero, especially when the water`s not circulating. And if low temperatures continue for several days, the ice sheet can increase in thickness by up to ¼ of an inch per day.
There are two types of winter covers typically found on the market: mesh and solid vinyl. Mesh covers are more affordable and don`t require any maintenance over the winter but they can allow debris to get into the pool`s water. Solid covers require a pump to remove rainwater and melted snow from the top.
The fix is quite simple. Open the valve that fills your pool and make sure it reaches the recommended levels for the size of your pool and your skimmer. The water level must be at around half of the opening of the skimmer to ensure a steady state of water pressure.
On average, a pool pump motor can last between 8 and 10 years before it needs to be replaced. If you hear a noise, such as screeching, humming, or even no noise at all, these are warnings that something has to be done. Alternatively, your pool pump should last about 60 months on average.
Typically it takes about half a day to heat most average size pools. However, here is a formula you can use for a more exact calculation based on your particular pool. Formula: Take the number of gallons of water in your pool x 8.34 = the number of pounds of water in your pool.
Not running the pump 24/7 is also a sanitary issue, and is the primary cause of a murky pool. The moment you turn off your water pump, debris, algae and bacteria start to build up, which can eventually lead to cloudy or green water.
Winterizing in Florida

Since it rarely freezes in Florida, you can cover the pool and reduce the filtration time per day and the amount of chemicals added. Pools today have many options to automate in cold weather conditions; ask a pool professional. 1. Reduce run time to four hours if not heating.

During winter, most people rarely use the pool. As such, covering the pool using a bubble or debris mesh cover can be helpful. This will protect it from any debris falling into the pool. Also, contaminants from the outside are also blocked from mixing in with the water.
Pool Closing Mistake 1: Skipping the Pool Cover

For one thing, an uncovered pool will become a catch-all for leaves and debris. Those leaves will spend all winter stewing away in the bottom of your pool. In the spring, you`ll be welcomed with a nasty, sludgy mess.

Depending on the size of your pool, we still recommend you run your pump run at least 4-6 hours a day during the fall and winter months. The daily cycle can be divided into multiple cycles, but each cycle should be no shorter than 4 hours, for all the water to pass through the filter at least once.
You should open your pool when the temperature is consistently above 70 degrees during the day. This helps prevent algae from growing, keeps pollen from collecting in the water, and doesn`t cost much more than opening later in the spring.
Every pool should cycle through all of its water at least once a day, so most pool owners will want to run their pumps for at least 4-8 hours daily.
Some commercial properties require 24-hour a day pump circulation, but as a homeowner, this is not advisable. If you are lucky enough to own an Energy Efficient, Variable Speed swimming pool pump (VSP) then, yes, technically you could run your pump for 24 hours a day.
What is backwashing? Backwashing is a pool term used to describe a filter cleaning method which reverses the flow of water through your filter system.
On average, you should run your pool pump around 6-8 hours per day during winter and 10-12 hours per day during summer. Note that you need to run your pool pump longer during summer because algae grow more in warm temperatures.
A typical pool pump uses about 1 kilowatt (kWh) per hour, putting it on par with running a 100-watt light bulb continuously for 10 hours. An inefficient pool pump may use about 2,500 kWh per year, much more for larger pools.
If you don`t open your pool at the right time, the higher temperatures may warm the minimal amount of water left in the bottom of your pool, creating a breeding ground for algae and other bacteria.
A pool that is uncovered can lose up to 5° F overnight; a good cover can cut that loss by half. Used at night or whenever your pool is not in use, the pool cover can help save fuel costs by cutting heat loss regardless of the type of heating you utilize.
On average, swimming pools lose about a quarter of an inch of water each day, yet variations in wind intensity, humidity and sunlight can drastically change water loss rates.
Keep the pump and filter on while you are away.

Set it before you leave to ensure the pool filter system will run at least 8 to 12 hours per day.

We recommend that our customers run their pumps rain or shine UNLESS you have an electrical storm. In that case, lightning could strike an outside circuit, which could damage your pump and other equipment. If you`re worried about lightning, turn the pump off or shut off the breaker.
The Equipment

There is no need to turn off your circulation system during a rain storm. We need the chemicals to still work and want the dirt and debris to be filtered out just like under normal circumstances. Never try to change settings on the pool pump or at the timer when it is raining.

Every pool must turn over at least once a day, so most pool pumps should run approximately 8 hours a day. But here`s the thing: you don`t have to run your pool pump consecutively. You can choose to run it for three hours in the morning before you leave for work and another 5 hours in the evening.

Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

I have the Intex Sand/Pump pool filter Model SF 20110. It’s been running real great for the last 4 months. However recently it has been tripping the internal overloads and I have found the pump motor to be very hot when I put my hand against it. I have tried several different solutions, such as a level ground platform that was clear of any obstructions, made sure that the motor vents under the motor was clear of anything that would prevent air flow. I used a non electrical type of lubricate on the impeller. When I would turn on the pump the rotor would not turn but only would hum very loudly and then slowly begin to turn. I also noticed that the motor’s rotor shaft would not turn to freely due the tightness around the rotor’s shaft. After using the lubricate the shaft would turn a little easier. I used an amp meter on the incoming voltage line and the motor would run at 4.5 amp. And yet it still overheated and tripped the motor overloads. I can only think that the motor is still not getting enough ventilation. I have check and cleared all the incoming lines and found nothing block the pumps input or output lines. Any suggestion?
ANSWER : I just looking into this issue my self. The pump cools itself by a internal fan, which is run by the motor. Well I took the housing cover off to find out all the fan blades have broken off and were setting in the base of the pump. Once you remove the fan blades from covering the air intake, it might be fine. I will find out my self once summer gets here.

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My pool filtering system has been installed for 5 years and has worked well. It has a Jacuzzi 1.5hp pump and a Hayward s244t filter with heater and a salt generator. I have never replaced the sand. It has had a problem 2 times in the past week at startup in the morning. It appears there is blockage in the filter preventing flow through it because when I open the pump backet, it is pressurized. If I then backflush or rinse the filter, everything appears to work fine. Then I switch it back to normal filter operation and it works ok. I have a timer on the filter and the problem only occurs first in the morning when the timer starts it. Any ideas?
ANSWER : Assuming you don’t have too much sand in it or something like that, because it used to work fine, my first guess would be that you are not setting the rinse cycle after the back flush, and the same dirt is coming right back into the filter.{ … RINSE—After backwashing, with pump off, set valve toRINSE. Start pump and operate for about 1/2 to 1 minute.This ensures that all dirty water from backwashing isrinsed out of the filter to waste, preventing possible returnto the pool. Stop pump, set valve to FILTER, and startpump for normal filtering … }http://www.haywardnet.com/products/manuals/pdfs/Manual145.pdfLook at the sight glass during each back flush, and see if there really is dirt. If so, then then either the pool is extremely dirty or you are cycling the same dirt over and over.

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I continually get code 90 (low/NO flow) from my 8111. I have disassembled, cleaned EVERYTHING, including the inlet port AT the pump (remind everybody to check this as stuff gets past the filter basket and will plug the pump inlet).

There is No air in the system and I get superb pressure at the outlet, yet I still get code 90. I again removed the flow sensor and put my ohm meter across the flow sensor terminals and activated the flapper and measured an open circuit. I used a heavier magnet to see if I could get make the internals of the sensor move to get an ohm reading, but I get nothing but an open circuit, ie: no measured resistance.

Can I simply bypass the defective flow sensor to trick the 8111 to think it has full flow without damaging the ‘brain’ of the system.?

Intex corp is useless at these questions. They have been out of stock on this sensor for months and are telling me “two weeks” for two months and now it’s “end of August” which I do not believe. Meanwhile I am making no chlorine while the 90 code is showing.

I love the 8111, this is the first problem I’ve had with it, and I’m frustrated that I can not get such an important part from them.

Thanks for listening!

ANSWER : Have you been able to find a solution to this problem. I am having the same issue.

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2005 4 stroke yamaha 150 550hrs. normally use every week but due to surgery not used for 10weeks. Just before I went down I changed internal fuel filter, and zincs in motor. finally put in sunday. motor started fine left dock hit the power and started to come up on plane then stuttered and died. changed the external fuel/water seperator pump up the primer and started up again. with in a minute died down again. limped back to dock checked fuel filter and plug wire connections. pumped up primer and left dock went right onto plane for maybe 150yds then coughed and died. I could pump up primer and it would run but then die out. the fuel filter at the front of the engine would run dry until I pumped it up again. If it were a car I would suspect a leak in a fuel line but I can’t find any sign of one.
before we launched I put 10 gallons of fresh fuel in and added another bottle of ethanol stabilizer (CRC brand)
what proceedure should I follow to isolate the problem? I am a fairly competent mechanic as far as cars and trucks go. I don’t really want to have to take it to a marine mechanic.
ANSWER : This is going to be the fuel pump is not pumping any fuel. The primer is acting as a fuel pump. When you prime it, it gives the engine enough fuel to run for a little bit. But as soon as the fuel runs out, the engine is dying. So this is going to be a bad fuel pump.

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Intex pool not compatible with Polaris vac-sweep cleaner
ANSWER : Polaris should have an adapter to make it fit, I’m surprised you didn’t get one, usually an adapter is put in a box to make it work with multiple pools, you can call them and order one or go to a local hardware store or Menards and make your own. They will have PVC fitting adapters. You should be able to find one that will work which you may need to permanently attach it on the one end and custom fit it, but if you have basic skills, then you shouldn’t have a problem with getting it to work. Let me know how this turns out.Benjamin

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Mar 12, 2010 – Could it be the check valve? I took it off and the flap appears to be working correctly. This well has been here a long time. Never given me any problems. I do have galvenized couplers on the discharge and intake sides. Old. Could these be leaking even though they show no sign of water? The discharge is able to hold 30 pounds easily overnight. I do not hear any vacuum in the intake when I take it off. Could the pipe to the well have a leak? I know I would have to insert a sleeve bnut I do not want to go through the hassle if I do not have to. I had put on a brand new pump from the hardware store that did the same thing so I think that would elliminate the pump as being the problem.
Mar 12, 2010 – I have a 3/4hp flotec convertible jet pump. It is able to hold 30lbs pressure on the discharge side as the primie easily for 24 hours. It is not able to pull water from the well whcih has been here for years. i disconnected it for the winter and rehooked it up. The galvanized couplers on the discharge and pump side are old but do not appear to be leakeing as I taped them well. The check valve seems to be functioning well as I took it off and the flap works correctly. The well is not pulling watrer. there does not appear to be a vacuum on the check vale when I losen it. could the check valve be bad? I am aware I might have to resleeve the well, but do not want to hassle with this if I do not have to. I want to eliminate everything else first. i put another brand new pump on it to see if it was that. That partiuclar pump which was the same thng did not work either.

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ANSWER : Your well has gone dry it seems. It has happened to my before. At first the new pump I purchased that did not pump I took back for exchange and still no water. I finally gave in and called the well experts and I was told the well was dried up

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I have a Intex 18×4 above ground pool with original pump that takes type A filter cartridges. Did not set up last year and cannot find manual. The pump is leaking around the top after putting new filter in. I know I am not remembering everything I’m supposed to do with hose connecting into pump and pool when you change filters or flush pump. Can you help me?
ANSWER : For manual you can visit http://www.intexcorp.com.hk/proifv/proifv_dl_client.jsp?source=intexstore this link. Hope it will help you.

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