Supra Gasket

So as to then put on timing belt

How to Identify and Resolve Common Issues ?

We offer a diverse range of insights on identifying and resolving common problems in sports. Our sources encompass academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays shared by seasoned athletes. :

If the engine timing of the cam is off, your car will either be running rough or not at all. If the ignition timing is the problem, it isn`t as easy to notice because it has four cycles: Intake valve sucks in air while fuel is delivered by the injectors. The fuel mixture is reduced.
Fuel injection timing is controlled by changing the position of the roller, which touches the face cam. When the injection pump is not rotating, the roller is in the maximum retarding position.
Incorrect fuel injection pump timing leads to reduced performance of the engine and can cause engine misfiring or other less obvious symptoms. It also causes over-consumption of fuel, excessive smoke production, loss of power and problems starting the engine as well.
Advancing the timing means you`re causing the injection to happen earlier than it normally would, and retarding the timing is when you make ignition occur after the manufacturer originally intended it to. Most people adjusting the fuel injection timing want to advance it due to the accompanying performance benefits.
Signs Your Ignition Timing Is Off

Some things to look out for: Engine knocking: Engine knocking occurs when the air-fuel mixture is ignited too soon in the cylinder. The mixture then pushes against pistons that are still trying to compress the mixture. This causes loud pinging sounds to come from the engine.

With excessive advance, the engine will be prone to pinging and detonation when conditions change (fuel quality, temperature, sensor issues, etc). After achieving the desired power characteristics for a given engine load/rpm, the spark plugs should be inspected for signs of engine detonation.
Electronic Control Unit (ECU)

The ECU is the brain of the operation. It uses engine RPM and signals from different sensors to meter the fuel. It does this by telling the fuel injectors when and how long to fire. The ECU often controls other functions like the fuel pump and ignition timing.

If the valve timing is incorrect, not only will the engine not run, but the piston could smash into the valves, causing catastrophic damage. Usually, the result is bent valves and damaged pistons.
Perhaps the most obvious sign of trouble is seeing the “Check Engine” light glow on your dashboard. This light can signal several problems including a bad fuel injector. Any time an injector delivers too much or too little fuel, the engines efficiency is lowered, which can trigger service light illumination.
Retarding the fuel injection timing reduces NOx formation in diesel engines by shifting the combustion event so that the peak pressures occur when the piston is well beyond the top-dead-center (TDC) resulting in lower pressure and temperature (Sayin and Canakci, 2009; Sindhu et al., 2018).
A major cause for fuel injection pump problems is the use of dirty fuel. Over time, residue builds up throughout your system. Using poor-quality fuel exacerbates this issue. Bring your vehicle in for auto repair if you notice sputtering or your vehicle hesitates when accelerating.
If the timing belt fails and the camshaft and crankshaft get out of sync, and can allow the valves and pistons to make contact, this will cause severe damage.
Most engines have between 5-20 degrees of ignition advance at idle. This is referred to as initial timing.
Timing in the Camshaft. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise to 90 degrees after TDC. This will make sure all the pistons are half way down the bore. Now position the dial gauge so that it can read the lift of the inlet valve of number 1 cylinder from the top of the valve retainer (see left).
The ideal ignition timing occurs (at any given rpm) when maximum cylinder pressure is achieved at roughly 15 to 20 degrees after top dead center (ATDC). This is when the piston and rod combination create maximum leverage on the crankshaft.
If the timing is off even a little bit, this could lead to a backfire. If the intake valve doesn`t completely close before ignition begins, fuel will be allowed to combust in the intake manifold — resulting in a loud bang and reducing your engine`s performance and smoothness.
Spark advance is particularly crucial at idle because the engine is operating at its lowest RPM and the spark must be timed just so to maintain a smooth idle. If the spark deviates too much from the ideal timing, it will cause the engine to idle poorly.
Neither ! Advancing Ignition timing does not effect air/fuel ratio unless it`s extremely late that manifold vacuum pressure drops so low causing the map sensor, metering rods to enrich the fuel mixture. Cars equipped with oxygen sensors will maintain the same fuel/air ratio. I hope this is helpful.
Mass Air Flow Sensor

The PCM uses air mass information to calculate and deliver the correct amount of fuel to the cylinders under all engine operating conditions.

The effects of five key influencing factors, including cam profile velocity, plunger diameter, length of high pressure fuel pipe, inner diameter of high pressure fuel pipe and nozzle flow rate on injection characteristic parameters, were analyzed by using the developed numerical model.
The injection duration is measured with the help of needle lift sensor. The duration of needle lift gives the duration of fuel injection into the combustion chamber.
IVC is considered by many to be the most important timing event decision affecting both performance (peak torque) and/or economy. IVC is a major component of Volumetric Efficiency. The amount of the air/fuel charge is predominantly controlled by IVC.
If you are getting no compression at all in your cylinders, you probably have a bad timing belt or a broken camshaft.
When do I need to have a valve adjustment? You should have your valve lash inspected at manufacturers recommended intervals. A sure sign that it`s time for a valve lash adjustment is if your engine is making a loud clicking or tapping noise when starting up or if you experience a loss in engine power.

Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

I continually get code 90 (low/NO flow) from my 8111. I have disassembled, cleaned EVERYTHING, including the inlet port AT the pump (remind everybody to check this as stuff gets past the filter basket and will plug the pump inlet).

There is No air in the system and I get superb pressure at the outlet, yet I still get code 90. I again removed the flow sensor and put my ohm meter across the flow sensor terminals and activated the flapper and measured an open circuit. I used a heavier magnet to see if I could get make the internals of the sensor move to get an ohm reading, but I get nothing but an open circuit, ie: no measured resistance.

Can I simply bypass the defective flow sensor to trick the 8111 to think it has full flow without damaging the ‘brain’ of the system.?

Intex corp is useless at these questions. They have been out of stock on this sensor for months and are telling me “two weeks” for two months and now it’s “end of August” which I do not believe. Meanwhile I am making no chlorine while the 90 code is showing.

I love the 8111, this is the first problem I’ve had with it, and I’m frustrated that I can not get such an important part from them.

Thanks for listening!

ANSWER : Have you been able to find a solution to this problem. I am having the same issue.

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Mar 12, 2010 – Could it be the check valve? I took it off and the flap appears to be working correctly. This well has been here a long time. Never given me any problems. I do have galvenized couplers on the discharge and intake sides. Old. Could these be leaking even though they show no sign of water? The discharge is able to hold 30 pounds easily overnight. I do not hear any vacuum in the intake when I take it off. Could the pipe to the well have a leak? I know I would have to insert a sleeve bnut I do not want to go through the hassle if I do not have to. I had put on a brand new pump from the hardware store that did the same thing so I think that would elliminate the pump as being the problem.
Mar 12, 2010 – I have a 3/4hp flotec convertible jet pump. It is able to hold 30lbs pressure on the discharge side as the primie easily for 24 hours. It is not able to pull water from the well whcih has been here for years. i disconnected it for the winter and rehooked it up. The galvanized couplers on the discharge and pump side are old but do not appear to be leakeing as I taped them well. The check valve seems to be functioning well as I took it off and the flap works correctly. The well is not pulling watrer. there does not appear to be a vacuum on the check vale when I losen it. could the check valve be bad? I am aware I might have to resleeve the well, but do not want to hassle with this if I do not have to. I want to eliminate everything else first. i put another brand new pump on it to see if it was that. That partiuclar pump which was the same thng did not work either.

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ANSWER : Your well has gone dry it seems. It has happened to my before. At first the new pump I purchased that did not pump I took back for exchange and still no water. I finally gave in and called the well experts and I was told the well was dried up

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I have a 1997 Coleman 107 Hot Tub. While filling the tub it over flowed and the circuit breaker popped. Over the years I’ve done this a couple of times. I remove the side, let things dry for a day or so and everything is fine. This time, I reset the breaker and the spa went on. The pumps work fine, and the control panel shows the temp and the indicator light shows the heater is on. However, work never heats up. The local spa repair folks are crooks and they know less than I do, and I know NOTHING. Nonetheless, I’m going to try and fix the problem myself. Now, I need to know the best way to determine if the problem is the circuit board or the heater itself. I also need to know where I can get a repair maual. I’m tired of paying Goober and Gomer hundreds of dollars.
ANSWER : Check the terminals that lead into the heating element to ensure voltage is present (110 AC) if voltage is present upon start up the heating element must be replaced if no voltage is present is is most likely a control board issue. Go to this web site for contact info and possible repair manual aquisition.

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2005 4 stroke yamaha 150 550hrs. normally use every week but due to surgery not used for 10weeks. Just before I went down I changed internal fuel filter, and zincs in motor. finally put in sunday. motor started fine left dock hit the power and started to come up on plane then stuttered and died. changed the external fuel/water seperator pump up the primer and started up again. with in a minute died down again. limped back to dock checked fuel filter and plug wire connections. pumped up primer and left dock went right onto plane for maybe 150yds then coughed and died. I could pump up primer and it would run but then die out. the fuel filter at the front of the engine would run dry until I pumped it up again. If it were a car I would suspect a leak in a fuel line but I can’t find any sign of one.
before we launched I put 10 gallons of fresh fuel in and added another bottle of ethanol stabilizer (CRC brand)
what proceedure should I follow to isolate the problem? I am a fairly competent mechanic as far as cars and trucks go. I don’t really want to have to take it to a marine mechanic.
ANSWER : This is going to be the fuel pump is not pumping any fuel. The primer is acting as a fuel pump. When you prime it, it gives the engine enough fuel to run for a little bit. But as soon as the fuel runs out, the engine is dying. So this is going to be a bad fuel pump.

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Water in the fuel tank of my Zodiac dinghy with Yamaha 2001 50 HP
ANSWER : I’d add a little dry gas to **** up any remaining water and give it a shot

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I have a Husqvarna 570 that quit running, It idled for about 30 sec. and shut off. It has spart and the plug is wet, its getting fuel. Had the ignition tested and fuel lines. checked fly wheel and timing. Seems like it is getting too much fuel and after a few pulls fuel runs out of the exhaust?
ANSWER : Hi keachfamily4…

Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your carburetor jets or fuel passages but for sure under your inlet needle valve. This problem will cause fuel to come out of the exaust, and carburetor at times.
Follow the directions below and you will be able to get your Husqvarna 570 running again.
Make sure you are using fresh fuel…and oil mix if your using a two cycle mower or weedeater with the oil to the right mixture and not too much oil as it can cause hard starting.If the mower/weedeater is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.Sounds like you will need to clean the carburetor or replace your carburetor internal rubber parts like the diaphgram and O rings.I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.Be sure to use compressed air to blow out all the fuel and air passages.Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or using starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit.When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their orginal position before you started.Once you have your carburetor rebuilt and reinstalled that should solve your problem.
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09 kx250f fuel leak
ANSWER : Sounds like your carb is dirty inside. make sure its out of warranty first, (don’t want to void it), then pull off the bowl at the bottom of the carb and clean it. Try to avoid useing acetone based cleaners as this can sometimes ruin some seals/gaskets/components.

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