heats but makes the noise, only when the burners click on. ON the high setting, from the pump, no noise at all. I just put in a new filter cartridge too.
Sport & Outdoor – Others
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This could be your gas line if you have a flex gas feed to the heater. They are normally to small and will wistel.
How to Identify and Resolve Common Issues ?
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The whistling noise comes from the burners. Check your gas pressure—low pressure can cause noise in the burners. You also may have a clogged burner orifice. Partial clogs there can cause whistling as well.
The “clicking,” indicates that the ignitor is sparking and the heater is trying to fire, but the gas and the “spark” are not reaching each other. If the heater has recently been installed, the first thing that must be checked is the gas pressure.
Blocked Baskets
The most common reason for low or no flow is that the baskets are full of debris. By checking and emptying both the skimmer basket (by the pool) and the pump basket (inside the pump) will free up the water flow, allowing the system to fully `prime` and function at full capacity.
This high-pitched screaming noise could simply be a sign that something is caught inside the pump, like in the impeller. Sometimes, the obstruction will clear as the pump works. The sound will go away as things go back to normal. However, this noise can be a sign that the pump`s bearings have worn down too much.
A water heater that makes groaning sounds likely has excess pressure in its tank or its lines. Groaning also indicates the buildup of sediment inside a water heater`s tank.
The proper flow ranges for ALL Hayward HeatPro Heat Pumps are a minimum of 30 GPM and a maximum of 75 GPM.
This could be an indication that the motor is overloaded. If the pump is buzzing you should turn it off straight away before the motor burns out. Usually, the capacitor has failed to result in the buzzing sound. The capacitor is what serves the motor power.
Blocked impeller:
Constant cavitation can lead to wearing out of the pool pump. This is because during cavitation, the pool pump motor runs dry as the impeller will be beating the air. If the pool pump is on for long, the impeller will begin to heat up, which would in turn produce a loud rattling noise.
Ensure that all valves are open to allow water to get to the pool heat pump. Sometimes valves may look open, but they are actually closed. Your heat pump will only run if your water pump is running.
A typical swimming pool pump runs in the range of 65-90 decibels, almost as loud as riding in a subway car. This can be a detriment to a pools outdoor pleasure. Even a small decrease in this sound can help tremendously.
A high pitched noise from your water heater can be the result of high incoming water pressure. This can be a problem and should be diagnosed and repaired as quickly as possible. Water heaters are designed with a temperature / pressure relief safety valve.
Banging/Rumbling: Banging and rumbling are among the most common water heater sounds. Typically, these noises can be attributed to excess sediment build-up. When enough sediment accumulates in your water heater tank, it may react with the heating element to create those little mini-explosions you are hearing.
Clean Clogged Skimmer Baskets
A blockage in the baskets prevents water from reaching the pool pump motor, causing too much noise. Check the baskets for any debris or objects, and remove them as needed. This will allow water to reach the pool pump motor and reduce the noise to normal levels.
That whistling noise you hear is most likely your water heater`s temperature and pressure relief (TPR) valve opening to relieve extra pressure inside the water heater.
This could be an indication that the motor is overloaded. If the pump is buzzing you should turn it off straight away before the motor burns out. Usually, the capacitor has failed to result in the buzzing sound. The capacitor is what serves the motor power.
This could be an indication that the motor is overloaded. If the pump is buzzing you should turn it off straight away before the motor burns out. Usually, the capacitor has failed to result in the buzzing sound. The capacitor is what serves the motor power.
Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
Mar 12, 2010 – Could it be the check valve? I took it off and the flap appears to be working correctly. This well has been here a long time. Never given me any problems. I do have galvenized couplers on the discharge and intake sides. Old. Could these be leaking even though they show no sign of water? The discharge is able to hold 30 pounds easily overnight. I do not hear any vacuum in the intake when I take it off. Could the pipe to the well have a leak? I know I would have to insert a sleeve bnut I do not want to go through the hassle if I do not have to. I had put on a brand new pump from the hardware store that did the same thing so I think that would elliminate the pump as being the problem.
Mar 12, 2010 – I have a 3/4hp flotec convertible jet pump. It is able to hold 30lbs pressure on the discharge side as the primie easily for 24 hours. It is not able to pull water from the well whcih has been here for years. i disconnected it for the winter and rehooked it up. The galvanized couplers on the discharge and pump side are old but do not appear to be leakeing as I taped them well. The check valve seems to be functioning well as I took it off and the flap works correctly. The well is not pulling watrer. there does not appear to be a vacuum on the check vale when I losen it. could the check valve be bad? I am aware I might have to resleeve the well, but do not want to hassle with this if I do not have to. I want to eliminate everything else first. i put another brand new pump on it to see if it was that. That partiuclar pump which was the same thng did not work either.
Mar 12, 2010 – I have a 3/4hp flotec convertible jet pump. It is able to hold 30lbs pressure on the discharge side as the primie easily for 24 hours. It is not able to pull water from the well whcih has been here for years. i disconnected it for the winter and rehooked it up. The galvanized couplers on the discharge and pump side are old but do not appear to be leakeing as I taped them well. The check valve seems to be functioning well as I took it off and the flap works correctly. The well is not pulling watrer. there does not appear to be a vacuum on the check vale when I losen it. could the check valve be bad? I am aware I might have to resleeve the well, but do not want to hassle with this if I do not have to. I want to eliminate everything else first. i put another brand new pump on it to see if it was that. That partiuclar pump which was the same thng did not work either.
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ANSWER : Your well has gone dry it seems. It has happened to my before. At first the new pump I purchased that did not pump I took back for exchange and still no water. I finally gave in and called the well experts and I was told the well was dried up
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I have a Intex 18×4 above ground pool with original pump that takes type A filter cartridges. Did not set up last year and cannot find manual. The pump is leaking around the top after putting new filter in. I know I am not remembering everything I’m supposed to do with hose connecting into pump and pool when you change filters or flush pump. Can you help me?
ANSWER : For manual you can visit http://www.intexcorp.com.hk/proifv/proifv_dl_client.jsp?source=intexstore this link. Hope it will help you.
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My pool filtering system has been installed for 5 years and has worked well. It has a Jacuzzi 1.5hp pump and a Hayward s244t filter with heater and a salt generator. I have never replaced the sand. It has had a problem 2 times in the past week at startup in the morning. It appears there is blockage in the filter preventing flow through it because when I open the pump backet, it is pressurized. If I then backflush or rinse the filter, everything appears to work fine. Then I switch it back to normal filter operation and it works ok. I have a timer on the filter and the problem only occurs first in the morning when the timer starts it. Any ideas?
ANSWER : Assuming you don’t have too much sand in it or something like that, because it used to work fine, my first guess would be that you are not setting the rinse cycle after the back flush, and the same dirt is coming right back into the filter.{ … RINSE—After backwashing, with pump off, set valve toRINSE. Start pump and operate for about 1/2 to 1 minute.This ensures that all dirty water from backwashing isrinsed out of the filter to waste, preventing possible returnto the pool. Stop pump, set valve to FILTER, and startpump for normal filtering … }http://www.haywardnet.com/products/manuals/pdfs/Manual145.pdfLook at the sight glass during each back flush, and see if there really is dirt. If so, then then either the pool is extremely dirty or you are cycling the same dirt over and over.
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Heat pump wiring
ANSWER : Yes i can , you need to hookup the r and the o together so that the reversing vvalvce is allways energized . so with that im mind send r,y,c,o to theout side unit. at the ahu you’ll hook up the 5 wires for the furnace, r g w1 w2 com and at the thermostat r,w1,w2,y,g,com,o then you will be set (the o get hooked up to o and goes straight out side.
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My 1977 Evinrude 140 HP outboard engine looses power when it hits @4,200 rpm’s and goes down to 3,500 then back up to 4,200 and then back down to 3,000 or about there. This would continue if I didn’t slow down to 3,000 on my own. It runs fine at @ 3,000 when I slow it down. I have changed all the fuel lines from the fuel tank to the carbs, removed, cleaned out the fuel tank, put new gas and added a can of SeaFoam. I replaced the water seperator filter and cleaned the fuel filter. I feel the fuel pump is operating OK. Any ideas about what could be causing my problem? Could it be a bad power pack or stator? Help!!
ANSWER : Hi, this is obviously a stator problem since you have cleaned the fuel filter..
Take care
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3 year old Toro Z4200 time cutter Z, 19 HP Kohler, engine runs great, new battery, new solenoid, with the seat sensor connected or by-passed, STILL WONT start off the key switch. Clicks at the kill relay. Would the kill relay be the problem?
Whats confusing is, both the green and blue posts on the solenoid have 14.01 volts when you turn the key to ‘start’ position. Did the same thing with the old solenoid, which is probably still good. I replaced it to eliminate that variable. It also ‘clicks’ at the fuel switch at the carburetor bowl, but that is only 1 lead (I assume a hot lead) so Im thinking that CANT be it.
Using the old hillybilly method, jumping across the 2 top posts on the solenoid, with the key in on position, it will start right up, run, drive and mow just fine.
So my best guess is this ‘KILL RELAY’ must be bad?
Any help would be appreciated, thank you !
Whats confusing is, both the green and blue posts on the solenoid have 14.01 volts when you turn the key to ‘start’ position. Did the same thing with the old solenoid, which is probably still good. I replaced it to eliminate that variable. It also ‘clicks’ at the fuel switch at the carburetor bowl, but that is only 1 lead (I assume a hot lead) so Im thinking that CANT be it.
Using the old hillybilly method, jumping across the 2 top posts on the solenoid, with the key in on position, it will start right up, run, drive and mow just fine.
So my best guess is this ‘KILL RELAY’ must be bad?
Any help would be appreciated, thank you !
ANSWER : These things are pre requisites for engine cranking: PTO/Blades are off/button pushed down, the steering arms are out/parked position, and you are in the seat. I think. Definitely the blades have to off.
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2005 4 stroke yamaha 150 550hrs. normally use every week but due to surgery not used for 10weeks. Just before I went down I changed internal fuel filter, and zincs in motor. finally put in sunday. motor started fine left dock hit the power and started to come up on plane then stuttered and died. changed the external fuel/water seperator pump up the primer and started up again. with in a minute died down again. limped back to dock checked fuel filter and plug wire connections. pumped up primer and left dock went right onto plane for maybe 150yds then coughed and died. I could pump up primer and it would run but then die out. the fuel filter at the front of the engine would run dry until I pumped it up again. If it were a car I would suspect a leak in a fuel line but I can’t find any sign of one.
before we launched I put 10 gallons of fresh fuel in and added another bottle of ethanol stabilizer (CRC brand)
what proceedure should I follow to isolate the problem? I am a fairly competent mechanic as far as cars and trucks go. I don’t really want to have to take it to a marine mechanic.
before we launched I put 10 gallons of fresh fuel in and added another bottle of ethanol stabilizer (CRC brand)
what proceedure should I follow to isolate the problem? I am a fairly competent mechanic as far as cars and trucks go. I don’t really want to have to take it to a marine mechanic.
ANSWER : This is going to be the fuel pump is not pumping any fuel. The primer is acting as a fuel pump. When you prime it, it gives the engine enough fuel to run for a little bit. But as soon as the fuel runs out, the engine is dying. So this is going to be a bad fuel pump.
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