t the snowblower on Dec. 11 2011 at Lowes in Westland, Mi. I can pull the trigger and position the Chute by hand however. What may the problem be and how do I go about getting it fixed? The engine also has a backfre when the choke is opened after starting. The backfire continues after the engine is completely warmed up, however, When the auger is engaged the backfire seems to go away for the most part. We just had eiht inches of snow and mor is expected tomorrow night and Saturday, so I need the snowblower.Advice please.
Sport & Outdoor – Others

How to Identify and Resolve Common Issues ?

We offer a diverse range of insights on identifying and resolving common problems in sports. Our sources encompass academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays shared by seasoned athletes. :

Clear the snowblower chute if snow build-up prevents the chute from turning. Inspect the drive mechanism of the chute direction system and remove any foreign objects caught in the drive system. If the drive system is clear, adjust the cable, shaft or gears that move the chute.
A common issue is a clogged carburetor from stale gas. Using a fuel stabilizer keeps fuel fresh and the carburetor from gumming and varnishing. Third step, check the ignition system with a spark tester. Step four, replace the spark plug and reconnect the spark plug wire.
It could be because the auger drive idler isn`t applying enough tension to the auger drive belt (inside the machine) for the belt to grip the auger pulley and make the pulley turn fast enough. The other reason could be that the auger drive belt is worn, which can lead to the same result.
Snowblower chute lubricant is the best choice because it was created for this purpose, provides a protective shield for dirt, snow, and grass, and doesn`t need to be reapplied before each use. Just spray the chute and auger before the first use of the season and you`re good to go.
Electric snow blowers come with a variety of chute types. The chute control directs which way you blow the snow. To turn the chute without stopping, consider a model with a crank or lever chute.
A build-up of snow in the discharge chute is a common snow blower problem. Snow build-up can prevent snow from blowing, so shut off your snow blower and clear any snow buildup in the chute. If the chute is clear, check the augers and auger drive system for problems. Defective impeller.
Snow blowers should last for several years. Most major brands offer warranties, protecting your machine for anywhere from one to five years (or more).
The most common culprit of a hard-starting engine is stale fuel. If you left fuel in the tank over the summer, it`s best to drain it by accessing the fuel line or using a siphon system.
First, check the shear pins for damage. If the shear pins are broken or worn out, replace them. Next, check the auger blades. If the auger blades are bent or damaged, replace them.
Power steering saves your back and makes the job easier

Two- and three-stage snow blowers are heavy and turning them around at the end of a path can be exhausting. But power steering allows you to turn the machine on a dime.

A power steering system allows the operator to turn and maneuver the snow blower more easily. All systems work the same way. One tire or the other slows down or stops, to help the snow blower turn more easily.
The belts in your snow blower transmit power from the engine to the drive wheels and the auger. When these belts become worn or stretched they will start to slip, which will cause a loss of power. Since the two belts are located beside one another, it is recommended that you replace them at the same time.
Premium SAE 5W-30 4-Cycle Engine Oil Specifically Formulated for Snow Blower Engines.
Can I use car oil in my snow blower? Yes. Snow blowers, like cars, are 4-cycle engines, so they use the same type of motor oil. Make sure to use a motor oil weight with a low-temperature viscosity rating, such as 5W-30.
During the winter time a synthetic oil also provides a more even flow of the oil. Conventional motor oil contains wax, which can freeze or congeal at low temperatures. A synthetic oil is best since you will be using your snowblower exclusively in cold weather.
When it`s safe, visually inspect the augers. If you don`t see the shear pin head or nut and you can manually spin the auger along the auger shaft, you broke a shear pin.
One way to prevent snow clogs in your snow blower is to use a non-stick snow blower spray. Like cooking spray, it keeps surfaces slippery and makes it difficult for snow to stick. Simply spray the aerosol liquid on the your snow blower`s auger and inside the discharge chute.
A much quicker and easier method is to spray the inside of the discharge chute with a silicone lubricant (a silicone spray can also be used on the auger blades or impellers instead of grease). This silicone spray should be renewed each time the snow thrower is used.
If you don`t have snow blower spray available and you need to get the job done today, try using a cooking spray or WD40.
For starters, empty the fuel system by running the engine dry. It`s a good idea to use Toro Premium Fuel Treatment all season long but if you haven`t being doing that, put a little in your tank before you run the fuel out.
A “snow thrower” refers to a single stage snow removal machine that picks up the snow in one motion and throws it out the chute with the continuation of that movement. The term “single stage” describes the fact that the snow is thrown in one single movement. A “snow blower” refers to a two stage snow removal machine.
Modern snowblowers are made with 4-stroke engines, but if you have a cherished snowblower from years ago, you`ve dealt with trying to get the perfect fuel mixture for a 2-stroke engine.
Outdoor Storage

Leaving your snowblower outside and exposed to the elements is not a good solution, even if it`s properly covered. If you ever had to, make sure it is covered and safely off the ground to prevent water damage from melting snow or rain.

Storing a Snowblower Outside

However, it`s always best to store your snowblower in a clean, dry area, so consider keeping it in a storage unit if you don`t have a garage or shed. It`s time to breathe a sigh of relief—you`re done fighting mounds of snow for another year.

Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

HI!
I continually get code 90 (low/NO flow) from my 8111. I have disassembled, cleaned EVERYTHING, including the inlet port AT the pump (remind everybody to check this as stuff gets past the filter basket and will plug the pump inlet).

There is No air in the system and I get superb pressure at the outlet, yet I still get code 90. I again removed the flow sensor and put my ohm meter across the flow sensor terminals and activated the flapper and measured an open circuit. I used a heavier magnet to see if I could get make the internals of the sensor move to get an ohm reading, but I get nothing but an open circuit, ie: no measured resistance.

Can I simply bypass the defective flow sensor to trick the 8111 to think it has full flow without damaging the ‘brain’ of the system.?

Intex corp is useless at these questions. They have been out of stock on this sensor for months and are telling me “two weeks” for two months and now it’s “end of August” which I do not believe. Meanwhile I am making no chlorine while the 90 code is showing.

I love the 8111, this is the first problem I’ve had with it, and I’m frustrated that I can not get such an important part from them.

Thanks for listening!

ANSWER : Have you been able to find a solution to this problem. I am having the same issue.

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I have a problem with my machine, on occasion, not recognizing when I’m starting, and the display will not start. I have to remove one of the batteries or it will stay on forever. When it starts up, it works fine, no complaints whatsoever. But lately, I’ve not been able to use it due to the start-up problem. I put the batteries in, the display comes on, but it will not start up when I begin motion. The control buttons will not work, either. Please inform me what it is I can do to fix this problem. Thank You
ANSWER : Troubleshooting on this model is very limited to anyone but the vendor. I would recommend sharing the symptoms with a representative from fitnessquest here.
Good luck

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I have a Scuba Pro X650a regulator. After having the unit serviced this winter I used it last month for the first time in St. Croix.

The first day of diving went fine. However, as the week progressed I noticed that when taking in a breath the regulator continued to trickle air at a very small rate. While not enough to be concerned about safety at this point it has become an annoyance both from the fact that bubbles continue to trickle past my ears and air usage has increased. This is an intermittent problem.

I had it looked at by 2 certified Scuba Pro Dive shops and they could not find anything wrong with it though one did lower the first stage pressure just to a bit to see if that would work. I also cycled the control lever position for “dive” and “surface” intervals to ensure that there were no sticking problems.

It does appear that the problem is intermittent and that it only occurs when the regulator is under water.

In addition is there a diagram in which I can use to troubleshoot this problem?

NOTE: this version of the X650 was not on the recall list of Scuba Pro.

Any help would be appreciated.

Stephen

ANSWER : Strangely enough I had the exact same problem with mine.. I’m in the caribbean I love diving and spear gun fishing.. I had one of these a year ago with the same issue I actually wound up increasing the pressure to get it to work.. It wasnt muc use cause my air ran out at a faster rate. Was never able to fix ,, A buddy of mine had the same issue ,, wound up replacing the swivle vale and this helped for a week and then back to the same old .. I then changed to the Aqualung Mikron Regulator had no issues and it works great .. Quite frankly I think we had bad ones here but I’m not sure where you got yours. If you wish you can replace the swivle valve (most likely cause) but I’ll just change the unit and get another..

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I have a Troy bilt Storm 9528 snow blower (about 3 years old). This year I am having trouble with the snow discharging.
It doesn’t seem to take much snow jam it up. At times the auger barely turns when I engage the handle. After I get it going by either cleaning it out or shaking the unit some, I see the auger spinning faster but it will bog down again as soon as it hits any significant amount of snow.

Mario

ANSWER : Adjust the auger cable so its tight, it most likely got loose. The adjustment is on the back of the machine theres 2 screws just make the auger cable tighter. this should solve your problem

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I have a 2004 60 hp yamaha 2 stroke outboard engine that doesn’t start or run well. Once warm and in the water it will idle in nuetral and also in gear. It accelerates in neutral but will die or lack power if I increase throttle while in gear. Engine will somtimes get to top speed but often while running at top speed engine will start to slow rapidly. Engine has full range of operationout when out of the water where there is no load on engine but is still difficult to cold start. Before these recent problems the engine sat up for several months and I had to change the impeller and spark plugs. Spark plugs fire, cylinders have proper pressure of 100, 100, and 110. I cleaned some fuel lines and filters and got new gas.
ANSWER : Every sympton you are describing here can be attributed to fuel starvation due to blocked jets and or water in carbs, when your engine dies does it die with dry plugs, or wet oily ones?

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My swimming pool. I have just had my fifth IC 40 Intellichlor chlorine generator installed in 4 years at a cost of over $900 today. Each one has worked for no more than 8 months. The first three were replaces under three year warranty, the fourth by a factory rep and I bought the fifth today. The first three all failed with Flow Chk PCB error message. The fourth just stopped working on Sunday, no power or lights. A local Pentair warranty person, whom I paid a Service Call, unplugged the unit, opened the small power center cover, showed me the green light indicating that there was power, plugged in a new IC 40 which worked immediately (as did the other four). I asked if I should replace the power center and he said that it’s basically just a transformer and is working fine. We do get occasional power blips that make the clocks on microwaves, etc blink, but I thought that the power center essentially isolates the cell from these. I do have a Florida Power and Light surge protector on the electrical box that brings power into the house. I have now talked to the pool builder, two Pentair warranty repairmen and one factory rep. I am at a loss. They all tell me they have no idea why these units fail after less than a year. This last IC 40 was installed 3/24/2010, version 2.0 and now failed in less than 5 months. Should I replace the power center that the IC 40 plugs into. Any other suggestions. I have been told that this is the best chlorinator. I don’t want to keep replacing units. By the way, each unit had been spotless inside. I keep the water chemicals and salt levels at ideal levels. The units have never worked long enough to get dirty inside. The power center is connected to an Intellitouch control system outside with an indoor control panel. Last time I called Pentair North Carolina and got some smart alec tech person that had no suggestions. Please Help if you can.
ANSWER : I’ve had the same experiance. On my fifth one as well. Fail every year. No idea why.

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Cannot turn engine over to start. Ariens 924 snow blower
ANSWER : Pull spark plugs and see if it will pull over if not fuel may have filled the crank case drain & refill to proper level (starter is stuck in lube shaft & movethe gear up & down by hand to free up)

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