Sport & Outdoor – Others

Experienced athletes share their insights in answering this question:
Tap it with a hammer on opposite sides to break ir free tighten puller then tap tap tighten puller than tap tap it will come off just b patient also if u use a torch to heat it up beware of rubber seal burning

How to Identify and Resolve Common Issues ?

We offer a diverse range of insights on identifying and resolving common problems in sports. Our sources encompass academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays shared by seasoned athletes. :

Virtually every flywheel or rotor is attached to the crankshaft by a taper on the crank, which matches the flywheel. Torque from the fixing bolt holds the flywheel securely on the shaft.
Flywheels also help keep your engine running smoothly even when torque varies during gear changes. Without the momentum of the flywheel, the engine would likely stall when engaging the clutch. This is because the engine speed would drop too quick without the angular momentum of the flywheel.
For example, it could be caused by rough engine starts, heavy loads, driving in the wrong gear, and slow cranking speeds. i Overheating. This can be deadly for the discs as they can crack or warp, and it is often caused by a slipping clutch.
Bad driving habits: Riding the clutch, pulling loads that are too heavy for your vehicle, driving in the wrong gear and placing your vehicle in reverse or first gear with the engine off are all poor motoring habits that can cause damage to the flywheel.
Replacing the flywheel as soon as you suspect any kind of problem is vital to protect other parts of your gearbox. This is a moderately difficult task. It should only be undertaken by reasonably experienced mechanics who understand the layout of the engine and the function of its component parts.
There are two prescribed methods to refinish a flywheel: turning on a lathe or grinding with an application specific machine. Many try to turn a flywheel on a brake lathe but the industry frowns on that procedure.
What Covers The Flywheel? The flywheel (or flexplate) is covered around the sides and top by the transmission bellhousing. On most transmissions, the bottom is accessible by removing the flywheel / flexplate cover. This cover bolts to either the transmission bellhousing and / or the bottom of the rear of the engine.
A flywheel is a spinning wheel, or disc, or rotor, rotating around its symmetry axis. Energy is stored as kinetic energy, more specifically rotational energy, of the rotor, and can be calculated by .
Without a flywheel an engine loses part of the momentum that continues the motion of the crankshaft. You can easily run an engine without a flywheel because the crankshaft, itself, has enough momentum to keep the engine running, albeit at a higher minimum speed.
A flywheel is a mechanical device which stores energy in the form of rotational momentum. Torque can be applied to a flywheel to cause it to spin, increasing its rotational momentum. This stored momentum can then be used to apply torque to any rotating object, most commonly machinery or motor vehicles.
Heat – Excessive heat is a big cause of most dual mass flywheel failures. A slipping clutch generates heat; if your clutch is worn, you can still save the flywheel if you get the clutch replaced early enough.
Its vibrations increase and pass down to the pedal. If you have flywheel vibration problems, then you might feel that they get worse when you change gears or accelerate. You might also eventually start to feel some vibrations on the floor around the pedal if the underlying problem gets worse.
Like all ARP bolts, the ARP flywheel bolts have been specially developed and manufactured for motorsport. ARP bolts are thus used throughout the motorsport world: from NASCAR to Formula 1.
You must use a flywheel bolt!

A flywheel requires a bolt head with a small radius at the shoulder location to allow proper contact at the flywheel mounting hole locations. The shoulder of the bolt must fit snugly at these hole locations.

The lowered mass means that the flywheel rotates much more easily under the engine`s power. This makes it ideal for acceleration in the lower gears when engine speed needs to change rapidly and is a popular modification for cars yearning for a perkier powertrain.
Additionally, heavier flywheels slow throttle response and maintain engine rpm longer on deceleration, sometimes referred to as “hang time.” A lightweight flywheel translates to faster engine response, on both acceleration and deceleration.
Installing a lightweight flywheel doesn`t decrease torque, but it does decrease inertia, meaning more torque will be needed to break traction with a clutch-kick (drifting or burning out), or to accelerate a vehicle off the line during a launch (drag racing, daily driving).
But not only does an engine with a light flywheel increase revs quicker, it also allows the motor to decrease RPM quicker. This can be an advantage as the engine can perform more of the braking when decelerating. Also, it can allow the driver to shift gears quicker, especially if combined with a short shifter.
If you notice a rattle or vibration when driving, and the clutch seems to slip in the higher gears, but you do not smell burning friction material, you`re dual mass flywheel is failing.
Therefore, your flywheel must be perfectly flat as it meets the clutch or problems will start to arise such as transmission vibration or clutch damage. Signs your flywheel may need to be machined include glazing or discolouration, uneven wear or `cupping`.
Flywheel energy storage systems (FESS) use electric energy input which is stored in the form of kinetic energy. Kinetic energy can be described as “energy of motion,” in this case the motion of a spinning mass, called a rotor.
– Limited energy storage time of around 15 minutes, making flywheels only suitable for quick, timely applications. Flywheels are therefore mainly used for regulating and optimizing systems, rather than for ensuring long-term autonomy like batteries and pumped-storage systems.
These holes are for balancing purpose. If the flywheel is not balanced, then during high speeds, it will generate unbalanced forces on the shaft on which it is fitted. By removing some portion of the flywheel in the form of these holes, it gets balanced.
This lightweight metal cover shields the flywheel to guard against the possibility of any accidental contact with service personnel or foreign objects.

Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

I have a problem with my machine, on occasion, not recognizing when I’m starting, and the display will not start. I have to remove one of the batteries or it will stay on forever. When it starts up, it works fine, no complaints whatsoever. But lately, I’ve not been able to use it due to the start-up problem. I put the batteries in, the display comes on, but it will not start up when I begin motion. The control buttons will not work, either. Please inform me what it is I can do to fix this problem. Thank You
ANSWER : Troubleshooting on this model is very limited to anyone but the vendor. I would recommend sharing the symptoms with a representative from fitnessquest here.
Good luck

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I have a TX500, never been used (just out of the box) and had to get an electrician to my home for this problem. It will start rolling but quits in a few seconds. The electrician believes that it is a problem in the sensor that rides at the belt. There is only one sensor in the pulley; he thinks that perhaps there should be two as there is a hole placement opposite the one that is in there. When the belt quits, it goes to a number 3 on the board which he thinks is the sensor as well. If he is correct, where do we get another magnet to place there? If he is not correct, please offer help. We did not get a owners manual in the box and surely could use one; where can we get one? Please help…thankyou
ANSWER : Hello,I believe the best thing to do at this point is to look for a way to get the manual of the device, this will give a full guide and better understanding on how to fix this problem.Check maualnguide.com to search for the manual of the device, the link provides almost all manuals to all device.Take care.

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I have a York Stellar model mid efficiency furnace Model # P?UCD12N07601A, Serial # EXAM3600524 installed in 1992. The HSI was replaced approximately 3 months ago. Over the last two weeks the ventor motor comes on, the HSI lights but does not ignite the gas. The ventor motor runns continously and the HSI continues to turn off and on without gas ignition. Some times by turning the ventor motor off and on (by opening and closing the bottom furnace faces panel door) will give be ignition after the HSI goes through 1-4 cycles. If I can’t get it to work I call my furnace repair guy. The serviceman thought it was the pressure switch and ordered one. Just this last weekend I had no heat and another service guy came in replaced the HSI again and adjusted the pressure switch and said this fix should work. Less than a day later furnace still experiencing the same problem-Ventor motor comes on, HSI comes on but no gas ignition. ventor motor runs continuously and the temperature in the house drops! I’m frustrated and the servicemen don’t seem to know how to fix the problem for good.
ANSWER : Make sure the vent pipes that exhaust the fumes are not blocked in any way and also check the drain line to be sure it is not kinked from the vent motor to the trap. Take the hoses off the vent motor and the pressure switch and make sure all the hoses are clean and free from debris also check the trap on the drain hose and make sure it has water in it if it doesn’t this will creat a negative pressure in the vent motor housing not allowing the vent pressure switch to make.

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I have a Scuba Pro X650a regulator. After having the unit serviced this winter I used it last month for the first time in St. Croix.

The first day of diving went fine. However, as the week progressed I noticed that when taking in a breath the regulator continued to trickle air at a very small rate. While not enough to be concerned about safety at this point it has become an annoyance both from the fact that bubbles continue to trickle past my ears and air usage has increased. This is an intermittent problem.

I had it looked at by 2 certified Scuba Pro Dive shops and they could not find anything wrong with it though one did lower the first stage pressure just to a bit to see if that would work. I also cycled the control lever position for “dive” and “surface” intervals to ensure that there were no sticking problems.

It does appear that the problem is intermittent and that it only occurs when the regulator is under water.

In addition is there a diagram in which I can use to troubleshoot this problem?

NOTE: this version of the X650 was not on the recall list of Scuba Pro.

Any help would be appreciated.

Stephen

ANSWER : Strangely enough I had the exact same problem with mine.. I’m in the caribbean I love diving and spear gun fishing.. I had one of these a year ago with the same issue I actually wound up increasing the pressure to get it to work.. It wasnt muc use cause my air ran out at a faster rate. Was never able to fix ,, A buddy of mine had the same issue ,, wound up replacing the swivle vale and this helped for a week and then back to the same old .. I then changed to the Aqualung Mikron Regulator had no issues and it works great .. Quite frankly I think we had bad ones here but I’m not sure where you got yours. If you wish you can replace the swivle valve (most likely cause) but I’ll just change the unit and get another..

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Hello, i think i figured out what it was, after breaking down the valve again i was looking at the rubber that is around the valves and i was thinking at first this wasnt an extra part, but come to find out after many hours of researching online it is an peice that comes off but its just glued on, its a (Spider) gasket. So do u think if nothing is wrong with the valve itself that if the spider gasket is wearing away and starting to get britle that it will let the debris i vacuum up come back in the pool and let the backwash valve leak when its on the filter position? I cant thank u enough for helping me. You sure have lead me in the right direction and saved me alot of money. Otherwise i would of probably gave up and bought another one….thanks and let me know if u think that the buying a spider gasket will solve my problems
ANSWER : The spider gasket that you refer to is what seals the chambers from each other. Leaking here can have a large impact on how well the valve is able to do its job. But, I don’t remember seeing one in the parts diagram. If you are able to obtain one, then by all means, replace it if you can. As I said earlier, you are essentially rebuilding the valve assembly. If something looks worn, now is the time to repair / replace it during reassembly. I also have a suggestion for you as well. Take good pictures, document everything that you do when you disassemble and reassemble the valve. Then write up a tip (gotta become an expert) for others to read through and be able to service their own equipment. I was surprised to see that there were as many other questions asked about the same filter that you have. Highly recommend that you do this. As many times as you have taken this apart and put it back together, you are fast becoming an authority on it!Glad to see that you are sticking it through, and not throwing in the towel. After all is said and done, you will have a working knowledge of how your filter works, and be able to identify issues in the future before they become a problem. Congratulations!

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2011 ninja 1000 fuel pump not coming on
first cycle of the key, but injectors come on.

Engine killed when i hit a bump and let out clutch.
I restarted it and let out clutch and it killed again.
I parked the bike on the stand and let it sit for an hour, then i restarted it and the bike started up, when i gave it gas it backed fire.
Do you think it could be the fuel pump or relay? The shop thinks it could be the kick stand switch, but even acts up on neutral and the gas pump doesn’t come on first cycle of key when cold. Only injectors come on.

ANSWER : I would agree with the shop, as far as check the simply things first.while trouble shooting you want to start with the easy things, if you jump right into the pricey things and that is not it you have spent money and time and still have the problem. If you have a multimeter it will make this pretty easy. put your meter on the ohm setting and open and close the switch ( sidestand, clutch, ect.) if one of your safety swtich is not working right it will make your bike act up. start with that and if they are all working as they should please let me know and we can go deeper into it. I had a bike come into the shop that would cut out while riding, every bump every turn. I chased my tail because i didn’t start simple. i sent a lot of time and ended up paying for a fuel pump out of pocket because that wasn’t the problem. All the switches where working and nothing seemed right everything was working. after a few days while raising the bike on the left i notched the side stand moving a little with ever little bump on the way up. long story short the spring on the side stand had lost it’s ” spring” and won’t hold the side stand up right, every bump every turn the side stand moved a little letting the switch open and kill the bike .let me know what you find and if you need more help I’ll get and send you the wiring diagram and we can start work out the problem.M.Woodring

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I bought a new mossberg 590 a1 shot gun a month ago, I love the gun but its having a couple of problems, the first problem is that when shooting every once in a while i get sprayed in the face with exuast from shooting through the safety very scary! any ideas whats causing this? how to fix it? second is that some times the fireing pin sticks and the gun will not discharge a round? the third problem is that i have had feeding issues with gun where it will not realice a gound from the tube, ive taken a tip of a knife to the stuck round in the tube and it prys out with little effort, these problems dont happen every time i go shooting, just every once in a while, but they a happening more and more, im conserned cause the gun is brand new, and i wanna be safe while shooting, can you guys help me? any ideas/solutions? please help!!!!!!!
ANSWER : Personally, with that many problems, I’d call Mossberg and get a return authorization. None of these things should be happening, especially with a new gun.

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