Sport & Outdoor – Others

1982 V45 Sabre when i try to crack the throttle and let the clutch out the engine dies. I need help! Can it be a vacuum line or my petcock vacuum rubber?
Experienced athletes share their insights in answering this question:
HI suspect a sticky “slider” piston, or damaged
diaphragm, the vacuum chamber covers (chrome caps at the top of the carburetors) can also
be removed without removing the carburetors from the bike to check them.

How to Identify and Resolve Common Issues ?

We offer a diverse range of insights on identifying and resolving common problems in sports. Our sources encompass academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays shared by seasoned athletes. :

Engaging the clutch allows power to transfer from the engine to the transmission and drive wheels. Disengaging the clutch stops the power transfer and allows the engine to continue turning without force to the drive wheels.
On older cars, you can usually start without touching the clutch pedal and with the vehicle in gear. Turn the key. The starter motor spins the engine; if the car is stuck in gear, the car will lurch forward.
Because your engine is always spinning, there has to be a way for the wheels to disengage so they can stop moving. This is where the clutch comes into play. It can disengage the wheels without killing the engine.
The power flow stops at the transmission of the input shaft when the clutch is disengaged.
Releasing the clutch too early will make your vehicle jerk while putting excessive pressure on the engine and transmission. This overheats the clutch, which can do serious damage over time. This is a common problem with learner and novice drivers.
Driving a manual transmission vehicle without using the clutch is tricky to do and can cause damage to your transmission. It should only be used in an emergency and for a brief time.
When the clutch pedal is pressed, the engine and transmission are disconnected, so you can safely reduce gear or stop the car without worrying about the engine stalling. To learn how the clutch works, you should first learn about its construction.
Temporary slowdown: Only Brake

If you are going at 100kmph, in fifth gear and you need to slow down. You would just press the brake, your speed will decrease but you will not hit the lowest speed of the gear so you do not need to use the clutch.

If the pedal is released quickly, a definite lurch can be felt as the engine and driveshaft re-engage and their speeds equalize. However, if the clutch is released slowly the clutch disc will “slip” against the flywheel; this friction permits the engine a smoother transition to its new rotation speed.
The reason for engaging the clutch and using the accelerator at stage 4 is to speed up the gear wheel on the drive from the engine so that, when the gear is engaged at stage 5, the teeth on that gear wheel will be moving at the proper (higher) speed to engage smoothly with the teeth on the new gear wheel.
The clutch is designed to engage and disengage the connection between the engine flywheel and the transmission input shaft.
The trick is to let the clutch out to the engagement point quickly and then more slowly from there. The only way you can know where this engagement point is, is by getting a feel for the car.
Yes, unnecessarily keeping the clutch pressed down can fail a driving test. Doing so is called `coasting` and reduces control and braking ability of your vehicle. Keeping the clutch pressed down disengages the the gears and the engine from the road wheels, so it`s essentially offering far less control.
Fact 2: You don`t need a neutral wire for balanced loads

Balanced loads are electrical loads with 3 phases, like a 3 phase motor or a 3 phase water heater.

A series motor should not be started on no load.
Remember each car will be geared slightly differently, but a good rule of thumb for changing gears is that first gear is for speeds up to 10 mph, second gear is for speeds up to 15 mph, third gear is for speeds up to 35 mph, fourth gear is for speeds up to 55 mph, fifth gear is for speeds up to 65 mph, and sixth gear …
For one reason or another, there are times were you think it might be beneficial to start off from a stop in second gear rather than first in your manual transmission car. In most cases, though, doing that will cause more wear on your clutch.
However, if the clutch is released slowly the clutch disc will “slip” against the flywheel; this friction permits the engine a smoother transition to its new rotation speed. Such routine slippage causes wear on the clutch analogous to the wear-and-tear on a brake pad when stopping.
Let the clutch pedal come up smoothly and press the accelerator gradually. At the same time, put your left hand back on the steering wheel. The reason for releasing the accelerator at stage 2 is to let the engine speed drop, because it needs to be lower to match the higher gear and so give you a smooth gear change.
As long as you are letting go of the clutch by a little bit and at the same time, you give it a little bit of gas. If you just let go of the clutch without giving any gas in first gear, you can go forward/fast then the car will just stall.

Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

I have a 2004 60 hp yamaha 2 stroke outboard engine that doesn’t start or run well. Once warm and in the water it will idle in nuetral and also in gear. It accelerates in neutral but will die or lack power if I increase throttle while in gear. Engine will somtimes get to top speed but often while running at top speed engine will start to slow rapidly. Engine has full range of operationout when out of the water where there is no load on engine but is still difficult to cold start. Before these recent problems the engine sat up for several months and I had to change the impeller and spark plugs. Spark plugs fire, cylinders have proper pressure of 100, 100, and 110. I cleaned some fuel lines and filters and got new gas.
ANSWER : Every sympton you are describing here can be attributed to fuel starvation due to blocked jets and or water in carbs, when your engine dies does it die with dry plugs, or wet oily ones?

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I have a 99 yamaha f100 four stroke outboard. Problem I have is boat will acclereate fine get up on plane and after running for about a mob at wot will decell and only run around 4500 rpm. Then after coming back to idle will have a slight miss then run smooth and repeat every run. Changed the plugs and fuel filters alll oe yamaha has fresh oil timing belt is good any ideas will help or fuel psi spec. I am an ase master automotive tech so I know alot about engs. To me it feels like it’s running out of gas. Like the carb bows are full when I take off but then runs out after running wot. Any info will help
ANSWER : I have exactly the same problem with my Yamaha F100, have you got any solutions yet?

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ANSWER : I would recheck wiring at stator.

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My engine revs on high by itself and runs rough
ANSWER : We had the same problem with our snowblower. we tried everything. ponits, adjustments. even converted points to electronics. we ened up putting on a brand new carborater and it runs great now. save youself the headaches and buy a new carborator. we spent $87. so much better

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I am trying to change the transmission oil on a 4WD stiga XK4 160 HD for the first time.
Draining went well. I have filled the reservoir but the oil is not going into the transmission. The rear clutch release lever is pulled out. the front clutch release lever can be pulled out by hand but doesn’t want to stay out. With the engine running the oil in the reservoir remains perfectly still, no bubbles.
What am I omitting to do? cheers allan
ANSWER : Checking transmission oil level

Check the oil level every time before using to ensure it is correct. The machine should be
standing on level ground.
Read off the oil level in the reservoir (9:R). It should be between the MAX and MIN marks. If necessary, top up with more oil.Type of oil:4WD – Synthetic oil 5W-50HST – SAE 10W-30 (20W-50)Draining the transmission oil1. Run the machine at variable speeds for 10-20 minutes to heat up the transmission oil.2. Position the machine completely horizontally.3. Pull out both disengagement levers.4. Place one container under the rear axle and one under the front axle.5. Open the oil reservoir by removing the cover. Only a 3/8″ square drive may be used for the oil plug. Other tools will damage the plug.6. Remove the oil plug from the rear axle. Clean the hole and use a 3/8″ square drive.7. Remove 2 drain plugs from the front axle. Use a 12 mm socket. Allow the oil in the front axle and pipes to run out.8. Check that the gaskets on the drain plugs of the front axle are intact. Reinstall the plugs. Tightening torque: 15-17 Nm. The oil plug will be damaged if it is tightened more to than 5 Nm.9. Check that the gasket on the oil plug of the rear axle is intact. Reinstall in the rearaxle. Tighten the oil plug to 5 Nm.10.Draw out the oil from the deeper section of the reservoir using an oil extractor.11.Dispose of the oil according to local regulations.Filling the transmission with oilThe engine must never be run when the rear clutch release lever is pushed in and the front clutch release lever is pulled out. This will damage the front axle seals.1.Fill the oil reservoir with the new oil. If the engine is run indoors, exhaust extraction equipment must be connected to the engine’s exhaust pipe.2. Check that the rear axle’s clutch release lever is pulled out.3. Start the engine. When the engine is started, the front axle’s clutch release lever slides inwardsautomatically.4. Pull out the front axle’s clutch release lever. NOTE! The oil is drawn into the system very quickly. The reservoir must always be topped up. Air must never be drawn in.5. Set the accelerator pedal to the forward position by blocking it using a wooden wedge. Fill the oil reservoir by hand using new oil.6. Run in the forward position for one minute.7. Move the wooden wedge and set the accelerator pedal to the reverse position. Continue fillingwith oil.8. Run in reverse mode for one minute.9. Change driving direction once every minute as above and continue filling with oil until the bubbling in the reservoir stops.10.Switch off the engine, install the oil reservoir cover and close the engine cover.11.Test drive for several minutes and adjust the oil level in the reservoir.

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LX 188. Engine suddenly dies. The fluel in the bowel of the fuel filter is empty. If I crank the engine the filter becomes dry and is collapsing some but the engine does not start. When I remove the supply line from the fuel pump to the carberator and crank the enginge there is a strong stream of gas being pumped out. I tap on the carberator ??? is the float is hung not allowing fuel to enter. Cranking the engine with the line off refills the bowel of the gas filter. Reattache line to the carberator===engine starts. Ran perfect for 20minutes then suddenly died. Repeated all the above and engine again started. What to do to fix this? Thanks
ANSWER : Debrie inside the needle and seat area which has to be cleaned out with carburetor cleaner and compressed air

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I have a Kohler Condidant 5 Generator that will run as long as you hold the start button in. It dies when you let off. I have a harness for the remote switch but no switch – It also will start the generator when you cross the red and black wire and run as long as you hold them together. There are 3 wires to the main switch and 5 to the remote switch. Does the starter stay engaged the whole time you hold the start switch or does the computer release the starter once it is running? The Generator is producing electricity because I tested it while holding the start button. Some where is a wire that shold tell it to keep running. I have read online many descriptions of the same problem, most are told the board is bad so they replace it and still have the problem. Have not found a solution. Talked to a marine machanic today and he said he fixed his friends generator doing the same thing by running a bypass wire but he couldnt remember exactly what he did it was a long time ago. Can anyone help me. Thank you
ANSWER : The problem is either the ballast resistor or the starter bypass relay. The bypass relay should be part of the starter solenoid. I’m afraid I can’t tell you exactly where the ballast resistor is located. It should be a physically fairly large resistor made of ceramic. It should be retangular roughly 1.5″-3″ long and 3/8″-1/2″ accross with a wire on each end. It could also be a coil of wire mounted on a phenolic board.
If you need more help just add a comment and I’ll respond as soon as I get the message.

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