Electrical layout for pargo golf cart 800 7

ANSWER : You have a broken belt .

ANSWER : He may not have known to put it in tow mode and doesn’t want to get blamed for damage to transmission towing it in wrong gear.

ANSWER : Contact manufacturer, and seek there advice

ANSWER : You have the motor hooked up in reverse, you need to switch the two wires leading to the motor in order to fix it.

ANSWER : It is most likely related to the rings, but running it would unstick them very fast if they were stuck. It’s possible that sitting let rust develop in the cylinder walls and there may be some grooves in them now. They could also just be really worn cylinders. They make some oil conditioners which I wouldn’t recommend on a car, but might work fine on a golf cart. I can’t recall the name, but it was in a silver can, maybe called engine restore… You could always try that before resorting to a rebuild.

ANSWER : One of the solenoids are bad and is be skipped over or the speed control box is malfuctioning.

ANSWER : In workshop areas, the NEC specifies GFCI (ground fault circuit interruptor) outlets.If you replaced any GFCI outlets, there could be 2 possible problems:(1) modern GFCI outlets will pass zero voltage if wired backwards (i.e. a load/feed reversal).check the load/feed wiring of all GFCI outlets, to make sure its correct.The feed side of the GFCI outlet is wired directly to the breaker, and the load side feeds powerto the remainder (the downstream side) of the circuit (therefore protecting the entire downstreamside of the circuit).(2) older GFCI outlets could need to be reset if wired correctly – check the reset button(s) just tomake sure that they (and any downstream outlets) are receiving voltage.Assuming that no GFCI outlets were part of the replacement process (or that your GFCI outletsare correctly wired), your check for the presence of 240 VACshould begin at the outlet/switch closest to the 240VAC double pole breaker, and proceed from there (looking for that 240VAC at each device with your 2-prong tester) along to the endof the circuit until the problem is identified.What this implies is that you have created (or will create) a schematic or circuit diagram of thecircuit involved – including switches, wires, and outlets (240V and 120V) – and then use that as aresource to trace the possible sources of the problem from the breaker to the problem.Here’s the question I would want you to answer as you create your circuit diagram:How did a 240V table saw get on the same circuit as a 120V washer and/or 120V switch(es)?It seems like during the process of circuit tracing/diagram creation, you may findthat you’re dealing with parts of more than 1 circuit, rather than just one. Check the breaker boxfor any breakers that are in the “Tripped” position – and diagram those circuit(s) too.What I would suspect is a wiring problem/mistake with the 1st device (switch or outlet) that issupposed to feed power to the rest of the circuit, but fails to pass power on to the remainder of the circuit – or that that first device is actually wired to a second circuit with a tripped breaker.Another thing to check is that your shop may be on its own sub-panel, with the table sawon a 240VAC circuit, and the washer on its own 120VAC circuit. In this case, thetotal curent draw may have tripped the MAIN breaker to this sub-panel in the MAIN breakerpanel (i.e. none of the breakers in the sub-panel were tripped, but the main breaker feeding theENTIRE sub-panel tripped, and this (double pole) breaker is located in the MAIN breaker panel).In this case, the fix would be to reset the double pole breaker in the main panel that feeds theshop sub-panel, bringing all the sub-panel circuits on line.The last thing to suspect/check for is a fault in the wire itself, which is the most difficult problem todiagnose. The fix to a bad wire would be re-fishing a new wire from the breaker box to the 1stdevice box – no electrical inspector will require the removal of old wires from walls – so long as theyare not live.What would make your life alot easier, and what helps electricians diagnose these problems soquickly, is an electrical field tester (a.k.a. “chirper” tester), which would allow you to checkthe wire as it leaves the breaker box to the point where the electrical field disappears.At the point (point in the wire/outlet/switch) where the chirper stops chirping, you’ve found yourfault. At Home Depot/Lowe’s/electrical supply store, a electrical field tester will set you backabout $8 to $20, depending on whether you opt for one that just lights an LED, or one thatlights and LED and also chirps.