Teledyne TDMC90 Aircraft Battery Charger
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Gill electrolyte is 1.285 Specific Gravity.
Reading 0 volts, chances are the battery experienced a short circuit. Cannot reach higher than 10.5 volts when being charged, then the battery has a dead cell. Fully charged (according to the battery charger) but the voltage is 12.4 or less, the battery is sulfated.
1 Gill battery ratings are defined by a series of specifications: 3.2. 1.1 The One-Hour Rate This is the rate of discharge a battery can endure for one hour with the battery voltage at or above 1.67 volts per cell, or 20 volts for a 24 volt lead-acid battery, or 10 volts for a 12 volt lead-acid battery.
If the SG is too low, draw off some electrolyte and replace it with 1.300 specific gravity acid. Charge the battery for a further two hours after any replacement to mix the electrolyte thoroughly before taking another reading. Use a clean glass container for mixing the electrolyte.
What are Amps? The strength of a current – how fast it flows – is measured in amperes or amps. Thinking back to the battery as a water pipe, the current would be the flow rate of the water. Higher amps mean that electricity is flowing more quickly and delivering more power to your device.
The battery C Rating is the measurement of current in which a battery is charged and discharged at. The capacity of a battery is generally rated and labelled at the 1C Rate (1C current), this means a fully charged battery with a capacity of 10Ah should be able to provide 10 Amps for one hour.
C-rating Explained
When purchasing a VRLA (Valve Regulated Lead Acid) battery, the user will note that the battery will display an Amp-hour to a `C-rating`. C-rating describes how much current the battery will deliver over the set time period. Being 20 hours for C20, 10 hours for C10 and 5 hours for C5.
Standards ensure interoperability and compatibility between the many elements of a battery system. Other considerations include product safety and testing, quality, reliability and environmental compliance.
Voltage on a fully charged battery will read 2.12 to 2.15 volts per cell, or 12.7 volts for a 12 volt battery. At 50% the reading will be 2.03 VPC (Volts Per Cell), and at 0% will be 1.75 VPC or less. Specific gravity will be about 1.265 for a fully charged cell, and 1.13 or less for a totally discharged cell.
The electrolyte in a flooded deep cycle battery is a solution of acid and water. Using distilled or deionized water is recommend because it is free from additional minerals you would find in water such as regular tap water. Adding chemicals and minerals can significantly decrease the life of batteries.
The specific gravity of the electrolyte in a fully charged cell should be from 1.280 to 1.300. If it varies more than 10 points above or below these values, adjust it by drawing off some of the electrolyte with a hydrometer and adding water to lower the gravity, or 1.400 acid to raise the gravity.
A dead or low battery can be caused by a failing alternator. It can also result from additional draw from auxiliary lights, fuses, sound systems, alarms and such.
Outputs refers to the charging that is being done to the external device. Example: The output of the charger is – 5V / 2.0A. If a smartphone is connected to a power bank, then that is Output charging taking place. This means that the smartphone is charging at 5 Volts and 2.0 Amps.
We recommend higher amperage to ensure cooler power supply and optimal charge time. If you get a charger with amperage less than your original power supply, you risk overheating your charger, burning it and in many case your device will stop functioning and/or charging.
U.S.-manufactured lead-acid batteries are considered fully charged when the specific gravity reading is between 1.275 and 1.300. A 1⁄3 discharged battery reads about 1.240 and a 2⁄3 discharged battery shows a specific gravity reading of about 1.200 when tested by a hydrometer at an electrolyte temperature of 80 °F.
So, how low are we talking? A typical 12-volt auto battery will have around 12.6 volts when fully charged. It only needs to drop down to around 10.5 volts to be considered fully discharged. If it drops down below that, the battery will become damaged due to excessive sulfation.
U.S.-manufactured lead-acid batteries are considered fully charged when the specific gravity reading is between 1.275 and 1.300. A 1⁄3 discharged battery reads about 1.240 and a 2⁄3 discharged battery shows a specific gravity reading of about 1.200 when tested by a hydrometer at an electrolyte temperature of 80 °F.
The specific gravity of fully charged deep-cycle batteries of the same model can range from 1.270 to 1.305; fully discharged, these batteries may vary between 1.097 and 1.201.
The electrolyte is made up of 70% distilled water and 30 % potassium hydroxide to achieve a specific gravity of 1.3. Generally Specific gravity of Ni-Cd battery is in the range of 1.24 to 1.32.
Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
My swimming pool. I have just had my fifth IC 40 Intellichlor chlorine generator installed in 4 years at a cost of over $900 today. Each one has worked for no more than 8 months. The first three were replaces under three year warranty, the fourth by a factory rep and I bought the fifth today. The first three all failed with Flow Chk PCB error message. The fourth just stopped working on Sunday, no power or lights. A local Pentair warranty person, whom I paid a Service Call, unplugged the unit, opened the small power center cover, showed me the green light indicating that there was power, plugged in a new IC 40 which worked immediately (as did the other four). I asked if I should replace the power center and he said that it’s basically just a transformer and is working fine. We do get occasional power blips that make the clocks on microwaves, etc blink, but I thought that the power center essentially isolates the cell from these. I do have a Florida Power and Light surge protector on the electrical box that brings power into the house. I have now talked to the pool builder, two Pentair warranty repairmen and one factory rep. I am at a loss. They all tell me they have no idea why these units fail after less than a year. This last IC 40 was installed 3/24/2010, version 2.0 and now failed in less than 5 months. Should I replace the power center that the IC 40 plugs into. Any other suggestions. I have been told that this is the best chlorinator. I don’t want to keep replacing units. By the way, each unit had been spotless inside. I keep the water chemicals and salt levels at ideal levels. The units have never worked long enough to get dirty inside. The power center is connected to an Intellitouch control system outside with an indoor control panel. Last time I called Pentair North Carolina and got some smart alec tech person that had no suggestions. Please Help if you can.
ANSWER : I’ve had the same experiance. On my fifth one as well. Fail every year. No idea why.
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Remote control plane not responding to transmitter.
ANSWER : I do not have a solution for this problem, but I have exactly the same problem! Is it a common problem for these airplanes?
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Motor no longer seems to work – have already tried new batteries
ANSWER : If the motor is exposed to the elements, rain water may enter the casing and freeze up the motor shaft, brushes, and windings can short out. May need replacing.
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Trickle charger for storing electric cushman golf cart
ANSWER : Contact manufacturer, and seek there advice
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I have a problem with my machine, on occasion, not recognizing when I’m starting, and the display will not start. I have to remove one of the batteries or it will stay on forever. When it starts up, it works fine, no complaints whatsoever. But lately, I’ve not been able to use it due to the start-up problem. I put the batteries in, the display comes on, but it will not start up when I begin motion. The control buttons will not work, either. Please inform me what it is I can do to fix this problem. Thank You
ANSWER : Troubleshooting on this model is very limited to anyone but the vendor. I would recommend sharing the symptoms with a representative from fitnessquest here.
Good luck
Good luck
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Slide out quit working and fuse on battery blows everytime I chan
ANSWER : Look under the coach near the slide and look for a pinched or bare wire. Sounds like you have a dead short to ground and could be difficult to find. Check the wiring to the slide motor, could be between the slide switch and the motor. Take a Volt meter and set it to Ohms. With the fuse out check to see if you get an Ohms reading between fuse wire and frame of coach. If you get a reading you have a short. Also check the power wire on the slide motor to motor case. If you get a reading the motor is shoted and needs to be replaced.Thanks for using FixyaJerry
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The control screen operates by a battery which is charged by cycling. We were in a car accident and it was unused long enough to run down the battery. When this happened before, we cycled till it was charged and then it worked. Now though, it is stuck at a level that we can hardly peddle at–not long enough to charge the battery. Any solution?
ANSWER : Hello.
You may need to pull the battery out and take it to a re-conditioner. In Australia a company called battery world can test the battery, re-condition or replace if needed.
if there is a way of using a external charger on it this may give you enough power to adjust the pedal resistance, be sure to disconnect the battery from the bike before charging and use the correct type of charger for that batteries voltage and chemistry
You can try manually releasing the pedal pressure by removing the wheel and releasing the resistance wheel or belt. With out a model type I do not know exactly how to do this, although it is fairly easy to see when the main wheel is off the bike.
I hope this points you in the right direction.
Regards
GM
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