Sport & Outdoor – Others

How to Identify and Resolve Common Issues ?

We offer a diverse range of insights on identifying and resolving common problems in sports. Our sources encompass academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays shared by seasoned athletes. :

Connectors are often not inserted properly or the connector is not tightened and this leads to corrosion. Perform a check of fuses and circuit breaker connections. Disconnect the plug to the depth transducer and verify that the sounder unit powers up. If it doesn`t, you need the manufacturer`s assistance.
Check for proper transducer installation, according to the Operations Manual. If the depth sounder reads correctly at slow speeds but not at high speeds, the problem is usually with the installation. Make sure the transducer has not “kicked up”. If it has, simply reset the transducer by snapping it back in its bracket.
There are several reasons a transducer might lose a depth reading when travelling at high speeds. It could be related to the transducer`s mounting location, device settings, or the vessel could be outrunning the return signal if it is moving too fast.
You will not be able to test out the transducer`s ability to read depth when the boat is not in water. Air dissipates the sound waves produced by the transducer and will cause the transducer to not be able to produce a reading.
It is not recommended to run a FishFinder and transducer on a boat that is not in the water as you will not get any readings from the transducer.
More and more boaters are using the electronic device they purchase for a fish finder also as a depth finder. This is because most fish finders provide the depth as an integral function of their operation. However you can still purchase electronic devices (depth finders) dedicated to pinging for depth.
NOTE: The minimum safe depth for the premium charts is 3 feet. If you enter a Safe Depth value of less than 3 feet, the charts only use depths of 3 feet for Auto Guidance route calculations. Sets the minimum height (chart height datum) of a bridge that your boat can safely travel under.
If the Range is manually set to a depth that is shallower than the actual depth of the water, the FishFinder or Sounder will not be able to accurately read the water depth and the digital number for the depth will begin to blink.
The transducer is the heart of a fishfinder system, changing electrical pulses into sound waves or acoustic energy and back again. It is the device that sends out the sound waves and then receives the echoes, so the fishfinder can interpret what is below the surface of the water.
As a rule of thumb, use frequencies below 140 kHz when fishing very deep water (over 1500 feet). Between 600 and 1500 feet, frequencies between 100 kHz and 160 kHz tend to work well. For anything 600 feet or shallower, you should use higher frequencies – over 160 kHz.
depth finder, also called echo sounder, device used on ships to determine the depth of water by measuring the time it takes a sound (sonic pulse) produced just below the water surface to return, or echo, from the bottom of the body of water.
Depth is a measure of vertical distance below a system reference water level. Range is a measure of linear distance from the center of the transducer face. The altitude of objects is calculated with respect to the position of the platform system reference point. Echograms can be displayed in Depth or Range mode.
The most reliable method of obtaining the depth to the water table at any given time is to measure the water level in a shallow well with a tape. If no wells are available, surface geophysical methods can sometimes be used, depending on surface accessibility for placing electric or acoustic probes.
The most common and fastest way of measuring ocean depth uses sound. Ships using technology called sonar, which stands for sound navigation and ranging, can map the topography of the ocean floor. The device sends sound waves to the bottom of the ocean and measures how long it takes for an echo to return.
Transducers are essential parts to every fish finder. They send out and receive sonar waves. These waves, once emitted into the water, bounce off of different objects.
Note: the transducer must be submerged in water for reliable transducer detection. If a transducer is detected, the unit will enter “Start Up” or normal operation unless you choose another option. If you do not press any button before the timer reaches “0”, the normal operation screen is displayed.
On most 2D fish finders, fish show up as arches with the middle of the fish pointing upwards on the screen. This is because the fish are in motion, moving through the sonar cone, casting back a slightly different signal based on where the sonar cone has hit them.
A depth of 8 to 10 feet is generally recommended for warm to hot climates for warm water fish and 16 feet or more for cold water species.
The best method to see if a transducer is working or not is to troubleshoot it with a voltmeter. Connect the transducer to the voltmeter, and excite the transducer with the proper excitation voltage. Now measure the voltage output of the transducer at zero load.
Mount a transducer too low and it will have too much drag in the water causing disturbance resulting in a poor picture, or even the transducer being ripped off the boat. Mount it too high and it will be out of the water or shooting through air bubbles for a poor to nonexistent picture.
Because the transducer can only ping in water so you do want it submerged. If it`s too deep sometimes the front face of it will create turbulence and bubbles = bad. Plus it can throw water up over your motor and inside your cowling resulting in saltwater intrusion.
If the measured valued has a big enough discrepancy, then the pressure transducer isn`t accurate and is unfit for use. Generally, pressure transducers from reputed companies vary only as little as 0.25% from the true value.
Depth Below Transducer is the distance below the transducer to the ocean floor.
Depth bias, also called depth offset, is a setting on the GPU that determines the depth at which it draws geometry. Adjust the depth bias to force the GPU to draw geometry on top of other geometry that is at the same depth.

Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

ANSWER : Try a new plug sometimes a plug will not fire under compression. also adj the valves

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I have a York Stellar model mid efficiency furnace Model # P?UCD12N07601A, Serial # EXAM3600524 installed in 1992. The HSI was replaced approximately 3 months ago. Over the last two weeks the ventor motor comes on, the HSI lights but does not ignite the gas. The ventor motor runns continously and the HSI continues to turn off and on without gas ignition. Some times by turning the ventor motor off and on (by opening and closing the bottom furnace faces panel door) will give be ignition after the HSI goes through 1-4 cycles. If I can’t get it to work I call my furnace repair guy. The serviceman thought it was the pressure switch and ordered one. Just this last weekend I had no heat and another service guy came in replaced the HSI again and adjusted the pressure switch and said this fix should work. Less than a day later furnace still experiencing the same problem-Ventor motor comes on, HSI comes on but no gas ignition. ventor motor runs continuously and the temperature in the house drops! I’m frustrated and the servicemen don’t seem to know how to fix the problem for good.
ANSWER : Make sure the vent pipes that exhaust the fumes are not blocked in any way and also check the drain line to be sure it is not kinked from the vent motor to the trap. Take the hoses off the vent motor and the pressure switch and make sure all the hoses are clean and free from debris also check the trap on the drain hose and make sure it has water in it if it doesn’t this will creat a negative pressure in the vent motor housing not allowing the vent pressure switch to make.

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Bottom half of screen cloudy
ANSWER : Sounds like the GOOD news is that it has to be the display anti-glare shield, and not the display itself. [You may even be able to look “down” on the display and see clear characters that are hidden behind the lower cloudy shield. The two likely candidates are: a) the shield surface, or b) delamination of the shield.

You have probably already tried this, but first try cleaning it with a soft cloth dampened with a little dish soap. Rub gently. [Did anyone get near this display with window glass cleaner perhaps?]

The surface can be cleared (if that’s where the problem is) with some non-glass optical rubbing compound. I like something called Micro-Gloss. For an area this small, you can just use your finger tip and rub the white liquid around (and around and around…). It will hurt the “anti-glare” quality – but that’s better than not being able to read the information at all.

One concern… since the problem is only on the lower half, *if* the plane has been parked for years in the hot sun, it may be actual breakdown or delamination of the plastic. [Try pressing gently on the cloudy surface and see if it makes any difference at all, right where you are pressing.] If that is the case, then your pretty much stuck needing a new plastic faceplate over the display. That *should* be a 50 cent part, but it’s connected to an airplane, so…

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Humminbird fishfinder 525 will not come on. It is getting power to the base other than that will not come on. Before it did that it showed loading and could not get it to turn off so i had to unplug it now it will not come on what can i do
ANSWER : Hello!I do beleive the issue with your sounder is the internal power circuit.The job can be completed for abour $50 at either the Humminbird factory or one of the service centers in Canada.Where to ship your items:(if you live in the U.S.)HumminbirdAttn: Service Dept.678 Humminbird LaneEufaula, AL 36027Who to call:Toll-free: 1-800-633-1468Monday – Friday8:00am – 4:30pm CST
Authorized Service Centers – Canada Bay Distributors119 Progress Ct.P O Box 70North Bay, Ontario, Canada P1B 8G8Tel: (705) 476-6010Email: [email protected]’s Reel Repair#108-31060 Peardonville Rd Abbotsford, BC V2T 6K5Tel: (604)855-1119 Email: [email protected] PTG Electronics Ltd.3092 Portage Ave Winnipeg, MB R3K 0Y2Tel: (204)831-0862Fax: (204-888-6207 Email: [email protected]

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This is the izh 513m .177 rifle. It’s brand new. I am not sure as of what to do and the hammer want budge and the trigger won’t pull. The barrel has no tension and it won’t go up like its supposed to.
ANSWER : This could be a factory safety that the hammer and trigger do not move while in the cocked position. The barrel may be locking down purposely. Look near the spring or in the path of the barrel where it folds back up and look for a release button. What do you see?

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My swimming pool. I have just had my fifth IC 40 Intellichlor chlorine generator installed in 4 years at a cost of over $900 today. Each one has worked for no more than 8 months. The first three were replaces under three year warranty, the fourth by a factory rep and I bought the fifth today. The first three all failed with Flow Chk PCB error message. The fourth just stopped working on Sunday, no power or lights. A local Pentair warranty person, whom I paid a Service Call, unplugged the unit, opened the small power center cover, showed me the green light indicating that there was power, plugged in a new IC 40 which worked immediately (as did the other four). I asked if I should replace the power center and he said that it’s basically just a transformer and is working fine. We do get occasional power blips that make the clocks on microwaves, etc blink, but I thought that the power center essentially isolates the cell from these. I do have a Florida Power and Light surge protector on the electrical box that brings power into the house. I have now talked to the pool builder, two Pentair warranty repairmen and one factory rep. I am at a loss. They all tell me they have no idea why these units fail after less than a year. This last IC 40 was installed 3/24/2010, version 2.0 and now failed in less than 5 months. Should I replace the power center that the IC 40 plugs into. Any other suggestions. I have been told that this is the best chlorinator. I don’t want to keep replacing units. By the way, each unit had been spotless inside. I keep the water chemicals and salt levels at ideal levels. The units have never worked long enough to get dirty inside. The power center is connected to an Intellitouch control system outside with an indoor control panel. Last time I called Pentair North Carolina and got some smart alec tech person that had no suggestions. Please Help if you can.
ANSWER : I’ve had the same experiance. On my fifth one as well. Fail every year. No idea why.

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2011 ninja 1000 fuel pump not coming on
first cycle of the key, but injectors come on.

Engine killed when i hit a bump and let out clutch.
I restarted it and let out clutch and it killed again.
I parked the bike on the stand and let it sit for an hour, then i restarted it and the bike started up, when i gave it gas it backed fire.
Do you think it could be the fuel pump or relay? The shop thinks it could be the kick stand switch, but even acts up on neutral and the gas pump doesn’t come on first cycle of key when cold. Only injectors come on.

ANSWER : I would agree with the shop, as far as check the simply things first.while trouble shooting you want to start with the easy things, if you jump right into the pricey things and that is not it you have spent money and time and still have the problem. If you have a multimeter it will make this pretty easy. put your meter on the ohm setting and open and close the switch ( sidestand, clutch, ect.) if one of your safety swtich is not working right it will make your bike act up. start with that and if they are all working as they should please let me know and we can go deeper into it. I had a bike come into the shop that would cut out while riding, every bump every turn. I chased my tail because i didn’t start simple. i sent a lot of time and ended up paying for a fuel pump out of pocket because that wasn’t the problem. All the switches where working and nothing seemed right everything was working. after a few days while raising the bike on the left i notched the side stand moving a little with ever little bump on the way up. long story short the spring on the side stand had lost it’s ” spring” and won’t hold the side stand up right, every bump every turn the side stand moved a little letting the switch open and kill the bike .let me know what you find and if you need more help I’ll get and send you the wiring diagram and we can start work out the problem.M.Woodring

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