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This condition is when the treadmill operates normally
without a person on the belt and then slows down when someone steps on
the belt or when the treadmill operates normally for a given period of
time
with someone on the belt then abruptly begins to slow down.
There are four typical causes for this problem (listed in
order of our experience:
1) The walking belt and/or deck are worn. (85% of the time)

2) The walking belt and/or motor belt are too tight- if you
have adjusted either recently. (8% of the time)
3) The motor has lost torque and needs brushes or has
demagnetized. (5% of the time)

4) The controller is dropping output. (2% of the time)
Walking Belt is Worn:
The only certain way to test for a worn walking belt is to
take a DC amp draw (if you have a DC treadmill) or an AC draw (for AC).
Trying to look at the belt or a feel test is highly unreliable. Better
tests, if you lack a DC ammeter (they are expensive for a good one), are
a coast test or an incline test. To test the deck, go back to the
Troubleshooting section and download the belt and deck inspections
instructions.
The coast test is to get on the treadmill as the lowest
incline setting and walk on the treadmill at 3 MPH. Pull the safety key
and it should take you 2-3 full steps to stop (this is a general
rule…some like a few Tunturi models stop on a dime even with a healthy
belt but most this tests works well upon). Fewer steps indicate high
friction.
The incline test is to put the treadmill at max incline and
walk on it at 3 MPH. If the treadmill operates normally at max incline
but bogs down at minimum incline, replace the walking belt. Gravity
takes over for the drive system eliminating the friction problem. On
some heavily worn walking belts, this test will not eliminate the
problem.
Walking Belt/Motor Belt too Tight:
If you have adjusted the walking belt or motor belt recently,
check for this problem. When the belts start slipping, some people just
crank down the belts and on treadmills, tighter is not necessarily
better. The tighter the belts, the more the drive system has to work to
keep everything moving. You should be able to lift the walking belt
(with the treadmill unplugged) in the center of the treadmill about 3”
without straining. Tighter belts should be loosen but make sure you
don’t create a dangerous slipping situation by loosening.
The motor belt (with the treadmill unplugged) should be able
to be turned by hand to almost a 90 degree angle from its normal
operating position. Loosen the belt if too tight. Make sure to test for
slipping
and if it does with the proper tension, replace the motor
belt.
Needs Brushes / Demagnetized Motor:
Typically when we find a motor that has lost torque; it needs
a new set of motor brushes. Typically we can make brushes for almost
any motor if we don’t already stock them. Motor demagnetization is not
that common but it does happen and it is normally easy to diagnose. If
you have confirmed the belt and/or deck is not worn and the belts aren’t
too tight, you can test for a motor torque problem.
DO NOT USE YOUR HAND OR ANY OTHER BODY PART TO IMPEDE THE
MOTOR…YOU WILL LIKELY LOSE YOUR BODY PART IN THE PROCESS IF THE MOTOR IS
GOOD.
The step to test for the motor is to use a foreign object
preferably on a long shaft. First determine the direction of the motor
spin (most have directional movement printed on the motor tag), then
apply pressure with an object with downward pressure on the flywheel in
the direction the flywheel is turning (do not attempt to put force
against the rotating direction of the flywheel as you can easily injure
yourself). If you can slow the motor, typically you need brush
replacement.
To test for demagnetization, the motor must be disassembled.
Once you have the motor retaining bolts removed, remove the motor core
by sliding it out of the end of the housing. If the magnets pull the
core
against the housing and it is difficult to remove, the magnets
are good. If the magnets do not attract the core, the motor has to be
replaced.
Controller:
This is the most uncommon of the causes. Typically replacing a
controller in this situation will not solve the underlying problem and
then you will end up replacing a belt as well as a control. Normally if a

control is dropping output, it will do it with a person on the
belt or not. Tests of DC output dropping is normal in many controls
since they have a current limiter which will automatically drop output
to prevent burning up the board. This is best diagnosed by eliminating
the other possible problems first. If you are left with the control as
the cause,
replace the control. Let me know,if needed further assistance.Hope i helped you.Thanks for using ‘ Fixya ‘ and have a nice day!!