uick as it was.6 weeks ago.chris
Sport & Outdoor – Others

Experienced athletes share their insights in answering this question:
Your battery may show the 13.5 volts but it is the amps you need to worry about in this case.you will have to have the battery load tested,sounds like the battery has a weak cell or a dead cell.

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As long as battery voltage remains above 9.6 volts, the battery is considered “good.” But if it drops below 9.6 volts by the end of the test, the battery may be “bad,” or the battery may have to be recharged and retested if it was not fully charged prior to the test.
Alternator Test

If the multimeter reading drops below 13.5 volts, the alternator is struggling to properly charge the battery and may need replacement. It is time to consult with a licensed professional for a second opinion.

A good alternator should produce about 13.5 to 14.5 volts with the engine idling. If the voltage reading is low (12.5 volts or less), it indicates a charging problem but does not tell you what`s causing it.
For some alternators, it`s normal to see as low as 13 volts. For some, a constant 13.6 volts is an indication of a problem. For others, it`s normal to see as high as 16 volts for long stretches. Still, it`s perfectly normal for others to see the alternator not charge at all intermittently.
12.5 volts – Your battery is at a healthy state of charge, but we`d recommend re-checking it within a few days to ensure the voltage hasn`t dropped any further. 12.1 – 12.4 volts – Your battery is partially discharged and should be recharged as soon as possible, using a suitable battery charger.
If the voltmeter reads between 14-15 volts then the battery is normal. But if the battery reads over 15 volts or less than 13 volts, then there might be a problem with the alternator. The alternator is over charging the battery or not giving enough charge to the battery.
All Lead acid batteries (Gel, AGM, Flooded, Drycell, etc) are made up of a series of 2.2 volt cells that are bridged together in series to reach their final desired voltage. For instance, a 6 volt battery will have 3 cells(3 x2. 2= 6.6 volts), a 12 volt battery will have 6 cells(6 x2. 2=13.2 volts) and so on.
When a car battery is fully charged, the voltage values should measure at 11.9 volts or above. When the car engine is running, this measurement should be 13.4 to 14.8 volts. but the low voltage doesn`t necessarily equal a bad battery.
A perfect voltage (without any devices or electronic systems plugged in) is between 13.7 and 14.7V. If the battery isn`t fully charged, it will diminish to 12.4V at 75%, 12V when it`s only operating at 25%, and up to 11.9V when it`s completely discharged.
With the engine running, your battery`s voltage should be somewhere between 13.5 and 14.7 volts.
A good alternator should maintain battery voltage between 13.9 and 14.8 volts (14.2 is optimum). Even worst-case, with all accessories turned on, there should be at least 13 volts at the battery.
With the engine off, the fully charged car battery voltage will measure 12.6 volts. This is known as “resting voltage.” When the engine is running, battery voltage will typically rise to 13.5 to 14.5 volts. The battery is boosted to these higher levels by the alternator.
The battery can be fully charged but still not be able to start the vehicle if it is failing or has a dead cell. Other likely issues are the fuel pump, ignition switch, battery cables, starter, or a clogged fuel filter.
One of the most common reasons the battery light comes on and the car battery stops charging is because of corrosion. Whether the corrosion is on the battery cables or cable terminals, it is still a problem that needs to be addressed. Another common culprit for the battery not charging is a problem with the alternator.
Connect the red probe of the multimeter to the positive terminal of the battery, and the black probe to the negative terminal. Check the voltage reading on the multimeter. A fully charged lithium battery should read around 4.2 volts.
Fully-charged, most car batteries will measure at least 12.6 volts (~13.0-13.2V for OPTIMA YELLOWTOPs), but low voltage doesn`t necessarily equal a bad battery.
When fully charged, how many volts should a car battery have? charged automotive batteries should measure at 12.6 volts or above. When the engine is running, this measurement should be 13.7 to 14.7 volts.
If you don`t have a voltage of around 12.6 volts, you may have a bad battery. Now start the car, and look for a revised voltage over 10. If your voltage drops below 5 when the car is running, it is bad and should be replaced right away.
So, how low are we talking? A typical 12-volt auto battery will have around 12.6 volts when fully charged. It only needs to drop down to around 10.5 volts to be considered fully discharged. If it drops down below that, the battery will become damaged due to excessive sulfation.
A 12-volt lead-acid battery that is fully charged often provides a voltage of about 12.7V.
When the vehicle is started, without the introduction of a load (the lights or air conditioner), the volts will usually rise to an average of 14 volts. If the multimeter reads at more than 14.8 volts, then this can be considered as overcharging.
A good car battery should read 12.4-12.9 volts when the car is off. Anything lower doesn`t necessarily mean the battery is bad. Your car`s electrical system may have drained it, or there may be an issue with your alternator. Recharge the battery and test it again later to see if it`s holding a charge.
A good rule of thumb is that when a shock is at or above 2,700 volts, it often results in death or severe injury. At over 11,000 volts, the victim will usually pass away. A good rule of thumb is that when a shock is at or above 2,700 volts, the person often dies or experiences severe injury.
The ideal car battery voltage with the engine running is between 13.7 and 14.7V. With the engine off, you should get a reading of 12.6 volts. If the battery isn`t fully charged, it will diminish to 12.4V at 75%, 12V when it`s only operating at 25%, and down to 11.9V when it`s completely discharged.

Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

The Bike Technicians Tactic Phase1 An electrical inspection on the bike should produce results. First, the bike battery powers the entire lightening systems mentionable as ignition, meter readings, head lamps, signal indicators. However, the battery provides the power supply to several entities though also significant is the fuse box containing circuit protection coils. Inserting the bike key into the ignition to perform start mode displays the capacity power circuits. A charged battery should display an indication in the meter reading area also known as bike dashboard grading. A malfunctioning start mode on inserting key in ignition may be traceable several locations on the electrical circuits. Attempting to repair the electrical power of the bike usually requires batter power power test kit. The test kit ascertains the battery power making possible progress to the remaining electrical circuits. Test kit also ascertains the fuse box circuit functionality either with fuses still intact or extracted allowing for the next progress level. An observation tour of the bikes electrical wiring kits from battery hold through fuse box compartments to each lightening display area either headlamps, indicators, and meter reading should produce results of any visible damages that may require repairs after the electrical inspection has been performed. Once any faults were observed on the electrical channels, repair mode is the next level. A dull battery either may have been depleted completely of durational capacity requiring another for replacement. Alternately, a depleted power supply due to prolonged storage may require charge functionalities. Usually, a device capacapble of restoring a battery of electrolytes is resorted for charger ability. The type of battery may require constuents either liquid cathode replenishment in the battery entrapment area prior to charging feature is assumed with electrolyte machine. Once the battery has regained full functionality makes way the next repair task. The fuse box may have simply required replacement fuses either as missing or burnt out. A fuse box usually contains additional spare for replacement functionalities. An alternate arrangement at acquiring fuses on the auto mart may replace the burnt devices. The next electrical task is wiring fixtures achievable by mending broken cords with appropriate electrician’s tapes else malfunctions may remain. Alternately, a worn-out electrical wire is replaceable by acquiring the entire extension lengthwise between significant areas. The last remaining electrical units are lightening indicators consisting of bulbs or luminescent displays reflectors. Observe the blub areas either by loosening covers to inspect for observable burnouts else the entire electrical circuitry is ready for functionality observations with separate entities. Engine Technicians Tactic PHASE 2 A bike engine inspection includes observation for indications of malfunction. Any fluid residue is indication of problem areas. Where oil leaks usually requires engine block inspections. A bike engine consists of an entrapment compartment where mechanical combustion takes place. First, the entire observable block consists of an external coating known as engine bloc housing internal component of pistons, rings, and fastens known as cylinder heads. A bike engine has every component embedded within requiring technical expertise to achieve an inspection. Once deciding on the engine task requirements, acquire a tool box with the appropriate componements as first requirement before engine works is commence able. Second, the bike may require an area environment as workshop requirement to attain engine inspections. Third, bike engine are least bulky compared with vehicle engines however assistance would complement the inspection phase. Prior to inspecting the bike engine, a strap mechanism has to be assumed to achieve expert maneuverability also as safe precaution. Unless parts hinder maneuverability at engine locations, the only removable components should be the engine. First, start with disjointing the spark plug cables to acquire accessibility to plugs imbedded on the cylinder heads. The plugs require tools to loosen thereby exposing the combustible area. Once the spark plugs are exposed, two alternatives are likely. First, a spark plug may have gathered rust residue only requiring cleaning to attain regular capacity. The pin area of the spark plug may have been twisted due to overheating and slight melting dislocation. Usually cleaning the residue from old plugs may simply expose the ignitable capacities. However, an observation of twisted plug pin may require twisting back in place to achieve full ignitability once bike engine starts. A bike engine bloc has the pistons as combustibles or blasters of fuel gasoline. The rings perform as strap fasteners whenever the pistons move about combustibility. Usually, the engine entrapment components would have collected residue requiring clearing. Also, pistons together with rings may require replacements either as worn-out due to prolongs tasks or overexerted biker features.
ANSWER : Get to the manufacturer

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I have the Intex Sand/Pump pool filter Model SF 20110. It’s been running real great for the last 4 months. However recently it has been tripping the internal overloads and I have found the pump motor to be very hot when I put my hand against it. I have tried several different solutions, such as a level ground platform that was clear of any obstructions, made sure that the motor vents under the motor was clear of anything that would prevent air flow. I used a non electrical type of lubricate on the impeller. When I would turn on the pump the rotor would not turn but only would hum very loudly and then slowly begin to turn. I also noticed that the motor’s rotor shaft would not turn to freely due the tightness around the rotor’s shaft. After using the lubricate the shaft would turn a little easier. I used an amp meter on the incoming voltage line and the motor would run at 4.5 amp. And yet it still overheated and tripped the motor overloads. I can only think that the motor is still not getting enough ventilation. I have check and cleared all the incoming lines and found nothing block the pumps input or output lines. Any suggestion?
ANSWER : I just looking into this issue my self. The pump cools itself by a internal fan, which is run by the motor. Well I took the housing cover off to find out all the fan blades have broken off and were setting in the base of the pump. Once you remove the fan blades from covering the air intake, it might be fine. I will find out my self once summer gets here.

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I have a York Stellar model mid efficiency furnace Model # P?UCD12N07601A, Serial # EXAM3600524 installed in 1992. The HSI was replaced approximately 3 months ago. Over the last two weeks the ventor motor comes on, the HSI lights but does not ignite the gas. The ventor motor runns continously and the HSI continues to turn off and on without gas ignition. Some times by turning the ventor motor off and on (by opening and closing the bottom furnace faces panel door) will give be ignition after the HSI goes through 1-4 cycles. If I can’t get it to work I call my furnace repair guy. The serviceman thought it was the pressure switch and ordered one. Just this last weekend I had no heat and another service guy came in replaced the HSI again and adjusted the pressure switch and said this fix should work. Less than a day later furnace still experiencing the same problem-Ventor motor comes on, HSI comes on but no gas ignition. ventor motor runs continuously and the temperature in the house drops! I’m frustrated and the servicemen don’t seem to know how to fix the problem for good.
ANSWER : Make sure the vent pipes that exhaust the fumes are not blocked in any way and also check the drain line to be sure it is not kinked from the vent motor to the trap. Take the hoses off the vent motor and the pressure switch and make sure all the hoses are clean and free from debris also check the trap on the drain hose and make sure it has water in it if it doesn’t this will creat a negative pressure in the vent motor housing not allowing the vent pressure switch to make.

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I have purchased three 750-watt power inverters in the last three weeks. They have all failed to work on the second or third use. The first two were the same brand. I replaced an old one that ran for several years. I am using it to run a 4.7 amp 120-volt vacuum cleaner motor that pumps up my air dock. I have it connected directly with marine cable to one of the boat batteries. The battery outputs about 12.8 volts DC. The fuses don?t blow, just No Output. I am using a three-wire 120-volt extension cord and am, wired neutral, hot and ground to the AC motor vial an on/off switch. The motor works fine when I run house power with an extension cord from the dock next to me. Could I be, just unlucky with new inverters and need to buy a forth one?
ANSWER : The problem may be that the inverter is undersized for the load. Is the 4.7 Amp rating the motor peak draw or the nominal one. What I mean is that it takes many times more power to start start the motor than when the motor is running. Typically it is 3 to 7 times more amps to start the motor than when it is running. It could be that starting the vacumm cleaner is stressing the inverter and it is causing it to fail prematurely. If you can find out the locked rotor current draw of the motor, the that would be the mininum size of the inverter.

Also, the type of inverter will make a difference on how the motor operates. A modified sine wave will make the motor run hotter than a pure sine wave inverter. Hope this helps.

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Trying to install a new fluro light, pull out old light to find 3 reds and 3 blacks 1 copper earth. What do I do to connect it up the right way??? When I pulled the old Fluro light out the 3 Reds were joined together with a connector ,two blacks were joined to one end of light wire, the other to the other end of the light wire,earth wire to the light case,the third black wire was connected to the wire from the ballast? Does this all make sense
ANSWER : No, this does not make sense but I have seen strange wiring before. There is power going from the light someplace else. Just connect it back up exactly as the old light was connected. It worked before so it will work again. If it works it is wired correctly. Without being there to check which wire was the hot wire and which was neutral it is impossible for me to say what is what. Make sure you connect the ground wire to the light chassis.

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Pop-up camper lights all turn on when tow-vehicle lights are on
ANSWER : FIRST, make sure white wire of camper is grounded to the frame of tow-vehicle. Temporarily use a jumper-cable frame-to-frame. Then apply 12volts individually to each of the three circuits to the camper. Assuming a 4-wire flat connector — brown wire is for marker lamps; yellow is left brake/turn; green is right brake/turn

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I have a 1997 motor guide wireless 24volt Big Water trolling motor. hooked it up to the batteries and put in a new 9volt battery in the foot pedal. the lights come on on top of the motor head and the foot pedal beeps, but the prop doesnt turn or spin (like there is no power to the bottom of the motor) any suggestions to what the problem is or how to fix it? (just bought the motor from a lady who’s husband died. dont have any manuals)
ANSWER : Hello there, as you said the power does not get to the bottom of the motor. The motor could be faulty or just completely bad. First you have to determine that the motor is good until you can determine this it is quite impossible to determine if there can be any fix. Take out the motor and try to power it on its own if it works fine then the problem is not from the motor but most likely the problem is from the motor. Let me know what your findings are. Hoping to hear from you soon.
Thank you for visiting FixYa.

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