Sport & Outdoor – Others
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How to Identify and Resolve Common Issues ?
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Fuses (and/or fusible links) act as circuit protection devices between the battery and the vehicle`s electrical system. Connecting the jumper cables backwards will often result in one or more blown fuses. The affected circuit will not function correctly until the blown fuse is replaced.
If you connect a wire between the two terminals, the electrons will flow from the negative end to the positive end as fast as they can. This will quickly wear out the battery and can also be dangerous, particularly on larger batteries.
“Positive first, then negative. When disconnecting the cables from the old battery, disconnect the negative first, then the positive. Connect the new battery in the reverse order, positive then negative.”
Battery specifications
If you use the wrong size battery, this could cause changes in the flow of electrical currents, resulting in power surges that can damage the onboard computers or other components.
To connect a group of batteries in series you connect the negative terminal of one battery to the positive terminal of another and so on until all batteries are connected, you would then connect a link/cable to the negative terminal of the first battery in your string of batteries to your application, then another link …
Note: When the batteries are connected in series and positive terminals of two batteries are connected, the potential difference is reduced. If the potential differences across the terminals of those batteries are equal, the effective potential difference in such a connection will be zero.
First the clamp of the red cable is connected to the positive terminal of the assisting vehicle. The other end of the red cable is connected to the positive terminal of the broken down vehicle. Then the black clamp is connected to the negative terminal of the assisting battery.
If you disconnect the positive terminal first, one slip of your wrench could send a direct short to the ground, which can be very dangerous. Its possible that you could experience a huge spark, the wrench could melt in your hand or the battery could even explode!
If the positive and negative ends of a battery come into direct contact with each other, a short circuit occurs. Result: the battery will drain very quickly. Very rarely, a sudden release of energy can cause a sudden burst of heat.
The ground in a circuit refers to a reference terminal with zero voltage. Hence, when the positive terminal of the battery is connected to the ground with zero potential, there is flow of charges from the positive terminal of the battery to the ground at zero potential.
For all intents and purposes, the battery will be ruined. You could technically charge it up, negatively, and continue to use it, but your plates are designed with the positive plates being lead dioxide, and the negative being composed of a sponge lead, which would now be reversed.
– Do not tilt the battery, acid can leak from the degassing openings.
As far as disadvantages, placing batteries in parallel can make them take longer to charge. Also, the lower voltage means higher current draw and more voltage drop. It may be difficult to power large applications, and you`ll need thicker cables.
The main difference in wiring batteries in series vs. parallel is the impact on the output voltage and the capacity of the battery system. Batteries wired in series will have their voltages added together. Batteries wired in parallel will have their capacities (measured in amp-hours) added together.
Wiring batteries together in series will increase the voltage while keeping the amp hour capacity the same. For example; 2 x 6V 120Ah batteries wired in series will give you 12V, but only 120Ah capacity. 2 x 12V 120Ah batteries wired in series will give you 24V, but still only 120Ah.
12 volts DC is not a shock hazard.
You can`t touch the wires in your 120V AC household electrical system without getting a nasty, dangerous shock, but you can touch bare wires carrying 12V DC in your car, even lay your hands across the positive and negative 12V battery terminals, without risk of electrocution.
This could cause a spark, which could lead to an explosion. Now you`ll need to find a bare metal ground for the black cable end. Some vehicles may have a designated jump spot, so you might want to start by checking your owner`s manual.
When negative terminal of cell is connected to other negative terminal of the cell in a particular circuit then, current will not flow in circuit as electrons cannot flow from negative to negative terminal.
When you jump-start your car the wrong way, there are many things that could possibly happen. The battery, jumper cables, and electronics will be damaged, including the fuse and the sensors. There is even a risk of explosion when the problem is at its worst.
The reason a battery sparks when you connect it is because of the potential difference between the two contact points. In simple terms, if the car has something that is requiring energy before the battery is connected, it will create a larger potential difference, which ultimately leads to a spark.
Red is positive and black is negative. Here`s the correct order for your jumper cables: RED to DEAD: Connect the red clip to the positive terminal on your dead battery.
The reason you connect the reds first is to minimize the likelihood of a short. Remember that you`re typically in control of one clip at a time, so one of them is not fully in your control. The particular trouble case is the last clip that you put in place.
Keep in mind that, although you can`t be electrocuted by simply touching the terminals of a regular car battery, due to the low voltage, you can receive a nasty shock from other components of a traditional automotive electrical system.
Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
I have a 1997 motor guide wireless 24volt Big Water trolling motor. hooked it up to the batteries and put in a new 9volt battery in the foot pedal. the lights come on on top of the motor head and the foot pedal beeps, but the prop doesnt turn or spin (like there is no power to the bottom of the motor) any suggestions to what the problem is or how to fix it? (just bought the motor from a lady who’s husband died. dont have any manuals)
ANSWER : Hello there, as you said the power does not get to the bottom of the motor. The motor could be faulty or just completely bad. First you have to determine that the motor is good until you can determine this it is quite impossible to determine if there can be any fix. Take out the motor and try to power it on its own if it works fine then the problem is not from the motor but most likely the problem is from the motor. Let me know what your findings are. Hoping to hear from you soon.
Thank you for visiting FixYa.
Thank you for visiting FixYa.
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My daughter has a sweet pea scooter that had been blowing fuses and the motor got hot. Im sure the motor is shot. but my question is can anyone tell me if the motor would be the only thing I need to c
ANSWER : Find out whether it is 6 volts or 12 volts and there should be two wires that feed the motor either cut or splice and attach another set of wires with fuse in the line (simular to jumper cables) raise the back tire so it does not touch the ground and place jump wires to the negative and positive of the battery.If the motor moves in either direction without blowing the fuse the motor is good if not then its bad. Uses the same amperage fuse
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I have the Intex Sand/Pump pool filter Model SF 20110. It’s been running real great for the last 4 months. However recently it has been tripping the internal overloads and I have found the pump motor to be very hot when I put my hand against it. I have tried several different solutions, such as a level ground platform that was clear of any obstructions, made sure that the motor vents under the motor was clear of anything that would prevent air flow. I used a non electrical type of lubricate on the impeller. When I would turn on the pump the rotor would not turn but only would hum very loudly and then slowly begin to turn. I also noticed that the motor’s rotor shaft would not turn to freely due the tightness around the rotor’s shaft. After using the lubricate the shaft would turn a little easier. I used an amp meter on the incoming voltage line and the motor would run at 4.5 amp. And yet it still overheated and tripped the motor overloads. I can only think that the motor is still not getting enough ventilation. I have check and cleared all the incoming lines and found nothing block the pumps input or output lines. Any suggestion?
ANSWER : I just looking into this issue my self. The pump cools itself by a internal fan, which is run by the motor. Well I took the housing cover off to find out all the fan blades have broken off and were setting in the base of the pump. Once you remove the fan blades from covering the air intake, it might be fine. I will find out my self once summer gets here.
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I have purchased three 750-watt power inverters in the last three weeks. They have all failed to work on the second or third use. The first two were the same brand. I replaced an old one that ran for several years. I am using it to run a 4.7 amp 120-volt vacuum cleaner motor that pumps up my air dock. I have it connected directly with marine cable to one of the boat batteries. The battery outputs about 12.8 volts DC. The fuses don?t blow, just No Output. I am using a three-wire 120-volt extension cord and am, wired neutral, hot and ground to the AC motor vial an on/off switch. The motor works fine when I run house power with an extension cord from the dock next to me. Could I be, just unlucky with new inverters and need to buy a forth one?
ANSWER : The problem may be that the inverter is undersized for the load. Is the 4.7 Amp rating the motor peak draw or the nominal one. What I mean is that it takes many times more power to start start the motor than when the motor is running. Typically it is 3 to 7 times more amps to start the motor than when it is running. It could be that starting the vacumm cleaner is stressing the inverter and it is causing it to fail prematurely. If you can find out the locked rotor current draw of the motor, the that would be the mininum size of the inverter.
Also, the type of inverter will make a difference on how the motor operates. A modified sine wave will make the motor run hotter than a pure sine wave inverter. Hope this helps.
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I have a 1991 Yamaha 250 outboard motor. I can connect the harness from the control box to the motor harness, put the motor in nuetral, and the motor will turn over but it will not start. I can disconnect the conrol box from the motor, jump it direct from the battery, and it will start. What might be the problem? I even bought a new control box but still have the same problem.
Thank you,
Dean Youngstrand
ANSWER : I would check for power coming off of the ignition switch. The ignition switch is what sends power to the control box to the coil. You can also check for power on your coil. But I would bet that it is your ignition switch.
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Starter was removed, rebuilt and reinstalled. Looking for help fo correct wiring.
The starter has 1 small post and 2 large brass posts. 1 at the top and the other atthe bottom
There are 5 wires
– red battery cable
– red & yellow (Small post?)
– 2 red
– 1 orange
What could happen if the combinatio is not correct when I connect the battery?
I believe the serial # is LD64157
1998 Sey ray 3.0 L mercruser 135 HP
ANSWER : Hi,
Attach the orange wire (FROM THE ALTERNATOR) to the stud on the starter solenoid that you connect the red battery cable.. Looking at the studded end of the solenoid, the small stud on the right side gets the yellow w/red stripe from the slave solenoid. The strapping coming out of the starter should be connected to one stud already. The empty large stud gets the two red and the orange wires.”
The Red/ Yellow wire goes to the Small stud, closest to the block,+ All the other wires go on the vacant Big stud.
Let us know if you want something more else please accept the solution.
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TC5000 and after extended use I smell burning and upon removing the belt cover and drive belt I felt of the motor on the motor side of the drive pulley and it was ”red-hot”, obviously the source of the smell of the burning. The motor spins freely without any rubbing noise. The drive pulley (motor side) and the tread pulley appear to be alligned. One curious thing is that the threaded motor output shaft is recessed about 3/8” from the outside edge of the pulley. Could it be the bearing on the pulley side of the motor? I am dumbfounded as to what the solution might be. Note that I could not enter the exact product as my model seemed to be invalid. My model is the TC5000. Thanks [email protected]
ANSWER : Just because it spins freely doesnt mean it cant have a shorted winding. Id send it back where it came from or at least replace the motor.
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