be? Screw size? 2. When I squeeze to inject fuel, I notice that fuel is squirting from the side of the carburetor. I also found a very small yellow gasket at the bottom of the engine case – looks like something that fell out.
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Hi vvs9,I see that you are having issues with your Tohatsu 9.8 4 Stroke O/B Engine.check this link, this is where you can get parts and the manual for machine, you mentioned that Fuel is squirting from the side of the carburetor and that there is a small gasket at the bottom of the engine case.Also that you mentioned there is a spring that seems to be unscrewed, I believe that is part of the Stop Switch. See Link below for more details.See this Link this is where you can check the manual exactly for the Model that you have.I hope that this helps.Thank you for choosing Fixya,mvincentc
How to Identify and Resolve Common Issues ?
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If it`s not engaging or turning over, you may have a faulty electrical system. For electric-starting models, you`ll want to check the main fuse to confirm it`s not blown. Start by unscrewing and removing the electrical cover. Next, use a pair of pliers to remove the fuse holder.
A clogged air filter will starve the engine of oxygen, causing the engine to die at full throttle. A clogged air filter will often cause your engine to idle rough as well. As part of your normal maintenance routine, you should check the air filter for heavy build-up, and replace if necessary.
If the fuel lines in your marine engine are kinked or pinched, this will block fuel from flowing to the engine. Verify the fuel lines are not obstructed and replace any damaged fuel lines. The fuel line couplings and connectors in your boat`s engine can also come loose over time.
Check to ensure that there is fresh, clean fuel in the fuel tank. Also check the fuel filter, because a clogged fuel filter will prevent the engine from obtaining adequate fuel supply. Check the air filter to ensure that it is not clogged or dirty.
Disconnected, dirty or fouled spark plugs are common causes for engines that won`t start. Spark plugs typically need to be replaced every season or 25 hours of use. You should also check that the spark plug gap is set properly.
If your outboard motor will not throttle up, the issue may be as simple as a tangle. Debris such as fishing line, excessive seaweed, beer can rings, or nearly any other material can wrap around the propeller and its spindle.
The most likely culprit is a dirty or clogged air filter. Issues with your fuel pump or fuel filter can also cause your engine to idle then die with any throttle. If you have an older car, it could also be a bad carburetor.
Engine Won`t Crank Over
A no-crank condition usually means the starter system on your vehicle is receiving power—or little power—but a failure in the starter, solenoid, or some other part in the system—perhaps the engine itself—is preventing the crankshaft from turning.
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The Bike Technicians Tactic Phase1 An electrical inspection on the bike should produce results. First, the bike battery powers the entire lightening systems mentionable as ignition, meter readings, head lamps, signal indicators. However, the battery provides the power supply to several entities though also significant is the fuse box containing circuit protection coils. Inserting the bike key into the ignition to perform start mode displays the capacity power circuits. A charged battery should display an indication in the meter reading area also known as bike dashboard grading. A malfunctioning start mode on inserting key in ignition may be traceable several locations on the electrical circuits. Attempting to repair the electrical power of the bike usually requires batter power power test kit. The test kit ascertains the battery power making possible progress to the remaining electrical circuits. Test kit also ascertains the fuse box circuit functionality either with fuses still intact or extracted allowing for the next progress level. An observation tour of the bikes electrical wiring kits from battery hold through fuse box compartments to each lightening display area either headlamps, indicators, and meter reading should produce results of any visible damages that may require repairs after the electrical inspection has been performed. Once any faults were observed on the electrical channels, repair mode is the next level. A dull battery either may have been depleted completely of durational capacity requiring another for replacement. Alternately, a depleted power supply due to prolonged storage may require charge functionalities. Usually, a device capacapble of restoring a battery of electrolytes is resorted for charger ability. The type of battery may require constuents either liquid cathode replenishment in the battery entrapment area prior to charging feature is assumed with electrolyte machine. Once the battery has regained full functionality makes way the next repair task. The fuse box may have simply required replacement fuses either as missing or burnt out. A fuse box usually contains additional spare for replacement functionalities. An alternate arrangement at acquiring fuses on the auto mart may replace the burnt devices. The next electrical task is wiring fixtures achievable by mending broken cords with appropriate electrician’s tapes else malfunctions may remain. Alternately, a worn-out electrical wire is replaceable by acquiring the entire extension lengthwise between significant areas. The last remaining electrical units are lightening indicators consisting of bulbs or luminescent displays reflectors. Observe the blub areas either by loosening covers to inspect for observable burnouts else the entire electrical circuitry is ready for functionality observations with separate entities. Engine Technicians Tactic PHASE 2 A bike engine inspection includes observation for indications of malfunction. Any fluid residue is indication of problem areas. Where oil leaks usually requires engine block inspections. A bike engine consists of an entrapment compartment where mechanical combustion takes place. First, the entire observable block consists of an external coating known as engine bloc housing internal component of pistons, rings, and fastens known as cylinder heads. A bike engine has every component embedded within requiring technical expertise to achieve an inspection. Once deciding on the engine task requirements, acquire a tool box with the appropriate componements as first requirement before engine works is commence able. Second, the bike may require an area environment as workshop requirement to attain engine inspections. Third, bike engine are least bulky compared with vehicle engines however assistance would complement the inspection phase. Prior to inspecting the bike engine, a strap mechanism has to be assumed to achieve expert maneuverability also as safe precaution. Unless parts hinder maneuverability at engine locations, the only removable components should be the engine. First, start with disjointing the spark plug cables to acquire accessibility to plugs imbedded on the cylinder heads. The plugs require tools to loosen thereby exposing the combustible area. Once the spark plugs are exposed, two alternatives are likely. First, a spark plug may have gathered rust residue only requiring cleaning to attain regular capacity. The pin area of the spark plug may have been twisted due to overheating and slight melting dislocation. Usually cleaning the residue from old plugs may simply expose the ignitable capacities. However, an observation of twisted plug pin may require twisting back in place to achieve full ignitability once bike engine starts. A bike engine bloc has the pistons as combustibles or blasters of fuel gasoline. The rings perform as strap fasteners whenever the pistons move about combustibility. Usually, the engine entrapment components would have collected residue requiring clearing. Also, pistons together with rings may require replacements either as worn-out due to prolongs tasks or overexerted biker features.
Get to the manufacturer
I have a 1996 yamaha wave venture 1100….ran greatsat for 2 yrs..started but only ran for spray into carbs….drained fuel started and ran good. Started about month later and would only run as long as primed with starter fluids…checked fuel filter(ok)…fuel flow to fuel pump ok…output of fuel pump appears ok….but engine will only run as long as starter fluid/gas is sprayed into carbs. I don’t think it’s the carbs as it ran great a month ago…now it’s starving for gas flow….so it appears to be a fuel delivery problem…what would be the sequence of tests up to tearing into the carbs? is there a fuel filter inside the carbs? remember it fires off great when primed…until the fuel spray is consumed…
Check the on/off/reserve valve
Starter was removed, rebuilt and reinstalled. Looking for help fo correct wiring.
The starter has 1 small post and 2 large brass posts. 1 at the top and the other atthe bottom
There are 5 wires
– red battery cable
– red & yellow (Small post?)
– 2 red
– 1 orange
What could happen if the combinatio is not correct when I connect the battery?
I believe the serial # is LD64157
1998 Sey ray 3.0 L mercruser 135 HP
Attach the orange wire (FROM THE ALTERNATOR) to the stud on the starter solenoid that you connect the red battery cable.. Looking at the studded end of the solenoid, the small stud on the right side gets the yellow w/red stripe from the slave solenoid. The strapping coming out of the starter should be connected to one stud already. The empty large stud gets the two red and the orange wires.”
The Red/ Yellow wire goes to the Small stud, closest to the block,+ All the other wires go on the vacant Big stud.
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Square tent with 2 types gazebo poles, varenda, 2 side windows
The 2 longest of the poles go in an x over the center of the tent and the 2 shorter ones go arch to the sides. http://www.wenzelco.com/details.aspx?NavID=412shows a picture very similar to your tent. If you go to image 2 it shows it with out the fly. now if you got 2 sets of 4 poles, 2 long and 2 short, and one set is all aluminum, then I would go with the aluminum set. It is less likely to collapse in high winds.
I have a 2004 60 hp yamaha 2 stroke outboard engine that doesn’t start or run well. Once warm and in the water it will idle in nuetral and also in gear. It accelerates in neutral but will die or lack power if I increase throttle while in gear. Engine will somtimes get to top speed but often while running at top speed engine will start to slow rapidly. Engine has full range of operationout when out of the water where there is no load on engine but is still difficult to cold start. Before these recent problems the engine sat up for several months and I had to change the impeller and spark plugs. Spark plugs fire, cylinders have proper pressure of 100, 100, and 110. I cleaned some fuel lines and filters and got new gas.
Every sympton you are describing here can be attributed to fuel starvation due to blocked jets and or water in carbs, when your engine dies does it die with dry plugs, or wet oily ones?
I have a Scuba Pro X650a regulator. After having the unit serviced this winter I used it last month for the first time in St. Croix.
The first day of diving went fine. However, as the week progressed I noticed that when taking in a breath the regulator continued to trickle air at a very small rate. While not enough to be concerned about safety at this point it has become an annoyance both from the fact that bubbles continue to trickle past my ears and air usage has increased. This is an intermittent problem.
I had it looked at by 2 certified Scuba Pro Dive shops and they could not find anything wrong with it though one did lower the first stage pressure just to a bit to see if that would work. I also cycled the control lever position for “dive” and “surface” intervals to ensure that there were no sticking problems.
It does appear that the problem is intermittent and that it only occurs when the regulator is under water.
In addition is there a diagram in which I can use to troubleshoot this problem?
NOTE: this version of the X650 was not on the recall list of Scuba Pro.
Any help would be appreciated.
Strangely enough I had the exact same problem with mine.. I’m in the caribbean I love diving and spear gun fishing.. I had one of these a year ago with the same issue I actually wound up increasing the pressure to get it to work.. It wasnt muc use cause my air ran out at a faster rate. Was never able to fix ,, A buddy of mine had the same issue ,, wound up replacing the swivle vale and this helped for a week and then back to the same old .. I then changed to the Aqualung Mikron Regulator had no issues and it works great .. Quite frankly I think we had bad ones here but I’m not sure where you got yours. If you wish you can replace the swivle valve (most likely cause) but I’ll just change the unit and get another..
Water in the fuel tank of my Zodiac dinghy with Yamaha 2001 50 HP
I’d add a little dry gas to **** up any remaining water and give it a shot