Sport & Outdoor – Others

Snowmobile ran fine,then one day I started it to let it warm up a bit.After a couple minutes it died,so I restarted it.It wouldn’t rev up,like it’s hitting a wall.If you work the throttle you can get it up to 3000 rpms,that’s it.If you burp the throttle it will die.Lil’ help?
Experienced athletes share their insights in answering this question:
Hi guy, you told me alot just now. Clean your injectors well, snowmobile 2 cycles all smoke rather heavy for a few minutes after sarting so that is comon.Caused by the oil settling in the chamber after shuting off. If not for this the cylinders would freeze up being dry. You may have some bad oil in injector also if it sat for a time without being started. Just remember, never, ever use starting fuild to start WD40 works well though. Check your plugs for correct heat range and gap, again, 2 cycles are very touchy with this also. Make sure you have proper injection pressure as well as fuel injector pressure. Fresh synthic 2cycle injection oil and go cleaning should solve your problem unless there is major problems with frozzen rings.

How to Identify and Resolve Common Issues ?

We offer a diverse range of insights on identifying and resolving common problems in sports. Our sources encompass academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays shared by seasoned athletes. :

Your snowmobile regularly loses power

One of the biggest signs your snowmobile has a bad fuel pump is when you routinely lose power whether you`re climbing a hill or going at high speed. In many cases, lost power is actually a sign of another problem such as an engine issue or a pinched fuel line.

Your starting issue could be damaged gaskets or maybe worn-out piston rings, scored cylinder or piston, bad crank seal, reed valve, or a damaged head gasket. Using a compression tester or contacting a place that can service your snowmobile will be the best way to go if the problem looks too serious.
Disconnect the main electrical connector coming out of the engine, and then check for spark again. This unhooks the kill switch, ignition switch and wiring for those switches. If the spark improves, the problem is within wiring from one of those switches or a switch itself is to blame.
Sometimes it`s an easy fix. The top three reasons why your snowmobile won`t start after the summer season is over are: Fouled spark plug – They just get plugged up sometimes and need to be changed. Fuel Quality – Fuel tends to degrade in quality when it sits around during the off-season.
The most likely issue is that a component is clogged. A clogged fuel filter is the most common reason, although a loss of power in your car could also indicate problems with the fuel pump or fuel line. Impurities or debris may be blocking the system, which causes the loss of power in a car.
A loss of power is most apparent when you`re accelerating, and can be due to a number of reasons including air flow into the engine, fuel flow and even faults with the exhaust system.
1)Overheating

When there isn`t enough snow, this can also cause overheating. Such overheating usually occurs at the beginning of the snow season. Other common causes of overheating include faulty wiring or a clogged exhaust pipe, all of which can cause problems for a sled.

A Bad Crankshaft Position Sensor

The crankshaft position sensor monitors the position and rotational speeds of the crankshaft. Without the crank sensor, the engine control module (ECM) wouldn`t know when to fire the fuel injectors and ignite the spark plugs.

Loss of spark is caused by anything that prevents coil voltage from jumping the electrode gap at the end of the spark plug. This includes worn, fouled or damaged spark plugs, bad plug wires or a cracked distributor cap.
Many personal watercraft models are designed to minimize getting wet inadvertently. They tend to keep the operator dry most of the time. So in normal riding conditions, an experienced Sea Doo rider, PWC beginner or jet ski renter can choose to stay dry instead of always getting wet.
Other Safety Concerns: Jet skis are designed to turn over, and that`s part of what makes them fun. However, it`s also why it`s important to wear a life jacket at all times, and to ensure that the safety lanyard is properly attached.
You can start any jet skis out of the water, but just for a short time! If you attach a garden hose to their flush port to cool the engine with running water, the best practice is if you run the engine for around 2 minutes. But without supplying water, it`s safest if you run it for a maximum of 15 seconds!
Clean or replace your vehicle`s air filter when your acceleration is acting sluggish. Put in new spark plugs when they go bad if your engine misfires and hesitates. Replace your vehicle`s fuel filter when there`s a delayed response when you accelerate.
If your engine revs up as you press down on the gas but your vehicle doesn`t accelerate as much as you`d expect, you may be dealing with transmission slipping. If you`ve ever tried to accelerate on ice, where your engine revs but your vehicle goes nowhere, you know the feeling.
Common causes of why a car feels sluggish when accelerating include dirty mass air flow sensor (MAF), faulty spark plugs, defective throttle position sensor, clogged catalytic converter, faulty oxygen sensor, clogged air filter, and fuel system malfunctioning.
Fuel System Issues: One of the most common reasons for a car to bog down when accelerating is an issue with the fuel system. If your car isn`t getting enough fuel, it will bog down when you try to accelerate. Or if your fuel tank has bad fuel or your fuel system is clogged, you may experience a bogging down.
What Do Heavier Clutch Weights Do? Increasing overall primary clutch weight will result in a lower peak RPM and slower sweep to reach that peak. It will also mean that your clutch will try to shift closed quicker. A stiffer primary spring may be needed to compensate for increased clutch weights.
Snowmobiles used to rely solely on 2-stroke engines, but since the 2000s, 4-stroke engines have become more common. 4-strokes are more reliable, practical, and durable, however there have been recent developments in the production of 2-strokes.
To check it, start the sled and attach an electrical multitester`s red lead to the regulator`s yellow wire, ground the tester`s black wire and then gradually increase engine speed up to 3,000 rpm. Voltage should not exceed 14 volts, but with a blown regulator, it might show 14 volts at idle.
To check it, start the sled and attach an electrical multitester`s red lead to the regulator`s yellow wire, ground the tester`s black wire and then gradually increase engine speed up to 3,000 rpm. Voltage should not exceed 14 volts, but with a blown regulator, it might show 14 volts at idle.
The first thing you should do if your snowmobile won`t start is to inspect your battery for physical damage. If it`s bulging, or you notice excessive corrosion, broken terminals or discolouration, don`t try to charge it. Your battery is compromised and will need to be replaced.
Darting occurs when the sled`s steering is responding to the direction of even small ruts in the trail rather than your steering input. As the sled encounters new ruts, it`s shifted in an unpredictable side-to-side manner.

Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

1995 Pantera can’t free rev,acts like it’s starving for fuel
ANSWER : Hi guy, you told me alot just now. Clean your injectors well, snowmobile 2 cycles all smoke rather heavy for a few minutes after sarting so that is comon.Caused by the oil settling in the chamber after shuting off. If not for this the cylinders would freeze up being dry. You may have some bad oil in injector also if it sat for a time without being started. Just remember, never, ever use starting fuild to start WD40 works well though. Check your plugs for correct heat range and gap, again, 2 cycles are very touchy with this also. Make sure you have proper injection pressure as well as fuel injector pressure. Fresh synthic 2cycle injection oil and go cleaning should solve your problem unless there is major problems with frozzen rings.

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I have a Husqvarna 570 that quit running, It idled for about 30 sec. and shut off. It has spart and the plug is wet, its getting fuel. Had the ignition tested and fuel lines. checked fly wheel and timing. Seems like it is getting too much fuel and after a few pulls fuel runs out of the exhaust?
ANSWER : Hi keachfamily4…

Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your carburetor jets or fuel passages but for sure under your inlet needle valve. This problem will cause fuel to come out of the exaust, and carburetor at times.
Follow the directions below and you will be able to get your Husqvarna 570 running again.
Make sure you are using fresh fuel…and oil mix if your using a two cycle mower or weedeater with the oil to the right mixture and not too much oil as it can cause hard starting.If the mower/weedeater is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.Sounds like you will need to clean the carburetor or replace your carburetor internal rubber parts like the diaphgram and O rings.I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.Be sure to use compressed air to blow out all the fuel and air passages.Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or using starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit.When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their orginal position before you started.Once you have your carburetor rebuilt and reinstalled that should solve your problem.
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My 1977 Evinrude 140 HP outboard engine looses power when it hits @4,200 rpm’s and goes down to 3,500 then back up to 4,200 and then back down to 3,000 or about there. This would continue if I didn’t slow down to 3,000 on my own. It runs fine at @ 3,000 when I slow it down. I have changed all the fuel lines from the fuel tank to the carbs, removed, cleaned out the fuel tank, put new gas and added a can of SeaFoam. I replaced the water seperator filter and cleaned the fuel filter. I feel the fuel pump is operating OK. Any ideas about what could be causing my problem? Could it be a bad power pack or stator? Help!!
ANSWER : Hi, this is obviously a stator problem since you have cleaned the fuel filter..

Take care

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09 kx250f fuel leak
ANSWER : Sounds like your carb is dirty inside. make sure its out of warranty first, (don’t want to void it), then pull off the bowl at the bottom of the carb and clean it. Try to avoid useing acetone based cleaners as this can sometimes ruin some seals/gaskets/components.

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2005 4 stroke yamaha 150 550hrs. normally use every week but due to surgery not used for 10weeks. Just before I went down I changed internal fuel filter, and zincs in motor. finally put in sunday. motor started fine left dock hit the power and started to come up on plane then stuttered and died. changed the external fuel/water seperator pump up the primer and started up again. with in a minute died down again. limped back to dock checked fuel filter and plug wire connections. pumped up primer and left dock went right onto plane for maybe 150yds then coughed and died. I could pump up primer and it would run but then die out. the fuel filter at the front of the engine would run dry until I pumped it up again. If it were a car I would suspect a leak in a fuel line but I can’t find any sign of one.
before we launched I put 10 gallons of fresh fuel in and added another bottle of ethanol stabilizer (CRC brand)
what proceedure should I follow to isolate the problem? I am a fairly competent mechanic as far as cars and trucks go. I don’t really want to have to take it to a marine mechanic.
ANSWER : This is going to be the fuel pump is not pumping any fuel. The primer is acting as a fuel pump. When you prime it, it gives the engine enough fuel to run for a little bit. But as soon as the fuel runs out, the engine is dying. So this is going to be a bad fuel pump.

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I have a 99 yamaha f100 four stroke outboard. Problem I have is boat will acclereate fine get up on plane and after running for about a mob at wot will decell and only run around 4500 rpm. Then after coming back to idle will have a slight miss then run smooth and repeat every run. Changed the plugs and fuel filters alll oe yamaha has fresh oil timing belt is good any ideas will help or fuel psi spec. I am an ase master automotive tech so I know alot about engs. To me it feels like it’s running out of gas. Like the carb bows are full when I take off but then runs out after running wot. Any info will help
ANSWER : I have exactly the same problem with my Yamaha F100, have you got any solutions yet?

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Water in the fuel tank of my Zodiac dinghy with Yamaha 2001 50 HP
ANSWER : I’d add a little dry gas to **** up any remaining water and give it a shot

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My name is Elena Jones, and I am a blog writer who loves sports and fixing and troubleshooting sports machines.
I also love the challenge of fixing and troubleshooting sports machines. I find it satisfying to be able to take something that is broken and make it work again.