d it again and will hardly run and smoking alot, i think that the carburater is giving to much fuel. dont know what to do
Sport & Outdoor – Others
How to Identify and Resolve Common Issues ?
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Harley Davidson stopped manufacturing carts in 1969 because the American Machine & Foundry Company (AMF) bought the brand. Before AMF sold the LSV department, an electric powered golf cart known as the 1969 Harley Davidson Electric low-speed vehicle was made.
In 1963, William “Willie G” Davidson joined the company and Harley-Davidson got into the business of making golf carts. They began their life as three-wheeled models and went on to add another wheel before H-D itself was sold to American Machine & Foundry Company (AMF) in 1969, beginning its inadvertent downfall.
Classic, vintage or antique motorcycles are generally at least 25 years old and look the way they were intended to when first manufactured or built.
The top speed is around 20mph. A rare example in excellent condition all Harley Davidson in black and orange. All fully restored and working like a charm. FORE!!!
Just like a new car, a new bike depreciates the second the papers are signed and you drive it off the lot. However, Harleys tend to retain a high resell value. Therefore, by buying used, you can get a beautiful bike that will resell at a high value, should you ever decide to sell your used Harley.
The lack of regulation in customisation and mechanics, as well as tumultuous ownership in the seventies, meant that some Harleys were of lower quality and reliability. Overall, if correctly maintained, Harley Davidsons are very reliable when compared to other brands.
It`s common for the terms `vintage` and `classic` to be interchanged when describing an older motorcycle. And while they share similarities, the general consensus is that a classic motorbike is considered to be classic when it`s between 20 and 30 years old.
How fast does a Harley Street 750 go? Its top speed is 105mph.
While most golf carts top out at around 15 MPH (24.1 KMH), those with modifications and enhancements can go up to 30 MPH (48.3 KMH).
Harley Davidson bikes price in India starts at Rs 17.49 Lakh for Harley Davidson Nightster, which is the cheapest model.
1965 FL Electra Glide®: This model featured the last of the Panhead engines. It was also the first Harley-Davidson with an electric start.
Discover Relevant Questions and Answers for Your Specific Issue
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
I have a 99 yamaha f100 four stroke outboard. Problem I have is boat will acclereate fine get up on plane and after running for about a mob at wot will decell and only run around 4500 rpm. Then after coming back to idle will have a slight miss then run smooth and repeat every run. Changed the plugs and fuel filters alll oe yamaha has fresh oil timing belt is good any ideas will help or fuel psi spec. I am an ase master automotive tech so I know alot about engs. To me it feels like it’s running out of gas. Like the carb bows are full when I take off but then runs out after running wot. Any info will help
I have exactly the same problem with my Yamaha F100, have you got any solutions yet?
My 1977 Evinrude 140 HP outboard engine looses power when it hits @4,200 rpm’s and goes down to 3,500 then back up to 4,200 and then back down to 3,000 or about there. This would continue if I didn’t slow down to 3,000 on my own. It runs fine at @ 3,000 when I slow it down. I have changed all the fuel lines from the fuel tank to the carbs, removed, cleaned out the fuel tank, put new gas and added a can of SeaFoam. I replaced the water seperator filter and cleaned the fuel filter. I feel the fuel pump is operating OK. Any ideas about what could be causing my problem? Could it be a bad power pack or stator? Help!!
Hi, this is obviously a stator problem since you have cleaned the fuel filter..
2005 4 stroke yamaha 150 550hrs. normally use every week but due to surgery not used for 10weeks. Just before I went down I changed internal fuel filter, and zincs in motor. finally put in sunday. motor started fine left dock hit the power and started to come up on plane then stuttered and died. changed the external fuel/water seperator pump up the primer and started up again. with in a minute died down again. limped back to dock checked fuel filter and plug wire connections. pumped up primer and left dock went right onto plane for maybe 150yds then coughed and died. I could pump up primer and it would run but then die out. the fuel filter at the front of the engine would run dry until I pumped it up again. If it were a car I would suspect a leak in a fuel line but I can’t find any sign of one.
before we launched I put 10 gallons of fresh fuel in and added another bottle of ethanol stabilizer (CRC brand)
what proceedure should I follow to isolate the problem? I am a fairly competent mechanic as far as cars and trucks go. I don’t really want to have to take it to a marine mechanic.
This is going to be the fuel pump is not pumping any fuel. The primer is acting as a fuel pump. When you prime it, it gives the engine enough fuel to run for a little bit. But as soon as the fuel runs out, the engine is dying. So this is going to be a bad fuel pump.
Part fell out of gun dont know where it goes
Is it the carrier support spring or the trigger spring?
go to www.winchester.com look for owners manual for model 94 come times the site dont work well.you may have to call them and ask for a schematic parts break down they will send it to you or e-mail it.
I have a 1992 yamaha waverunner wr500q, that didnt run so i took it to a repair shop and they said it was the CDI unit and it needed the carb cleaned and it would cost $1150.00 which i didnt have. But my dad cleaned the carb and we bought a brand new CDI unit, put it together and it was so exciting bc it started no problem but when we took it to the lake the next day it cranked but wouldnt fire up bc now its not getting a spark again. Please help!
THE CDI WOULD BE MY LAST CHOICE FOR THE LOSS OF SPARK PROBLEM, THE IGNITION PICKUP WOULD BE MY CHOICE, IT IS LOCATED BEHIND THE ENGINE FLYWHEEL, U MUST REMOVE THE FLYWHEEL TO GET AT IT, THIS REQUIRES SPECIAL TOOLS AS IT IS PRESSED ON, BELOW U WILL SEE A PICTURE OF THE PARTS UNDER THE FLYWHEEL, PART #5 IS THE IGNITION COIL PULSER, WHICH IS THE IGNITION SYSTEM PICKUP THAT TELLS THE CDI WHEN TO SPARK THE PLUGS, HERE IS THE PART NUMBER AND PRICE FOR THE PART.
SKU: 6K8-85580-00-00COIL, PULSER $94.12
OF THE PRIVCE AND PART NUMBER IS:
The Bike Technicians Tactic Phase1 An electrical inspection on the bike should produce results. First, the bike battery powers the entire lightening systems mentionable as ignition, meter readings, head lamps, signal indicators. However, the battery provides the power supply to several entities though also significant is the fuse box containing circuit protection coils. Inserting the bike key into the ignition to perform start mode displays the capacity power circuits. A charged battery should display an indication in the meter reading area also known as bike dashboard grading. A malfunctioning start mode on inserting key in ignition may be traceable several locations on the electrical circuits. Attempting to repair the electrical power of the bike usually requires batter power power test kit. The test kit ascertains the battery power making possible progress to the remaining electrical circuits. Test kit also ascertains the fuse box circuit functionality either with fuses still intact or extracted allowing for the next progress level. An observation tour of the bikes electrical wiring kits from battery hold through fuse box compartments to each lightening display area either headlamps, indicators, and meter reading should produce results of any visible damages that may require repairs after the electrical inspection has been performed. Once any faults were observed on the electrical channels, repair mode is the next level. A dull battery either may have been depleted completely of durational capacity requiring another for replacement. Alternately, a depleted power supply due to prolonged storage may require charge functionalities. Usually, a device capacapble of restoring a battery of electrolytes is resorted for charger ability. The type of battery may require constuents either liquid cathode replenishment in the battery entrapment area prior to charging feature is assumed with electrolyte machine. Once the battery has regained full functionality makes way the next repair task. The fuse box may have simply required replacement fuses either as missing or burnt out. A fuse box usually contains additional spare for replacement functionalities. An alternate arrangement at acquiring fuses on the auto mart may replace the burnt devices. The next electrical task is wiring fixtures achievable by mending broken cords with appropriate electrician’s tapes else malfunctions may remain. Alternately, a worn-out electrical wire is replaceable by acquiring the entire extension lengthwise between significant areas. The last remaining electrical units are lightening indicators consisting of bulbs or luminescent displays reflectors. Observe the blub areas either by loosening covers to inspect for observable burnouts else the entire electrical circuitry is ready for functionality observations with separate entities. Engine Technicians Tactic PHASE 2 A bike engine inspection includes observation for indications of malfunction. Any fluid residue is indication of problem areas. Where oil leaks usually requires engine block inspections. A bike engine consists of an entrapment compartment where mechanical combustion takes place. First, the entire observable block consists of an external coating known as engine bloc housing internal component of pistons, rings, and fastens known as cylinder heads. A bike engine has every component embedded within requiring technical expertise to achieve an inspection. Once deciding on the engine task requirements, acquire a tool box with the appropriate componements as first requirement before engine works is commence able. Second, the bike may require an area environment as workshop requirement to attain engine inspections. Third, bike engine are least bulky compared with vehicle engines however assistance would complement the inspection phase. Prior to inspecting the bike engine, a strap mechanism has to be assumed to achieve expert maneuverability also as safe precaution. Unless parts hinder maneuverability at engine locations, the only removable components should be the engine. First, start with disjointing the spark plug cables to acquire accessibility to plugs imbedded on the cylinder heads. The plugs require tools to loosen thereby exposing the combustible area. Once the spark plugs are exposed, two alternatives are likely. First, a spark plug may have gathered rust residue only requiring cleaning to attain regular capacity. The pin area of the spark plug may have been twisted due to overheating and slight melting dislocation. Usually cleaning the residue from old plugs may simply expose the ignitable capacities. However, an observation of twisted plug pin may require twisting back in place to achieve full ignitability once bike engine starts. A bike engine bloc has the pistons as combustibles or blasters of fuel gasoline. The rings perform as strap fasteners whenever the pistons move about combustibility. Usually, the engine entrapment components would have collected residue requiring clearing. Also, pistons together with rings may require replacements either as worn-out due to prolongs tasks or overexerted biker features.
Get to the manufacturer
I own a tippman a5 with an UMP shroud and fake metal clip. I took apart for some maintinance and ever since i put it back together its been acting like im out of air after 2-3 quick shots. I took it apart to check it and everything was ok. So i screwed the tank back in and now i have a small leek on tthe nutin between and the tombstone.
What do you think the problem is (im afraid their two different problems).
There is an O-ring up in where the Tombstone slides in. That O-ring has to be lubed (oiled)
and should be toward the rear of the gun when installing the Tombstone. Also, drop-off
in firing can be caused by lack of lube on the internal O-rings. 2 drops of oil in the inlet hole
where your bottle screws on and then dry firing to cycle the oil thru might help. You may need
to completely tear down the gun and clean and lube the internal O-rings. If you can switch to
air AKA…HPA (High Pressure Air) it will be better for internal parts and better consistency overall.
Here is your manual for reference.